As a stop gap for the wave, a short thin strip of kapton tape in the right locations will work as a stable shim. My cast aluminum tool plate bed has a slight cup centered in one axis that starts about a 1/4 the way from the other axis. I believe the shop I ordered the plate from used a shear to cut the plate and deformed it a bit.
I used the mesh compensation and heat map to understand the bed warp and shimmed as needed.
My PEI surface is still heated evenly despite the small gap from shimming.
@bendiesel said in tevo little monster duet wifi:
dose the wifi server version look correct to you?
No, it should be 1.21.
ok so let me see if i got the fan thing correct.
i have a 24v power supply and a 24v berdair pump. i hook the positive and groun up to one of the pwm headers on the bord
the 12v 40mm noctua i use a buck converter and get 24v power form one of the always on fan header, then down grade to 12 v and send just the the positive to the fan. then i hook the pwm and ground to a pwm header. do i hook the ground to ground and the pwm to positive?
If your 12V fan has a separate PWM control input, connect the fan + and - wires to the output of the buck converter, and connect the PWM wire to the FAN- pin of your chosen controlled fan output. Use parameter I1 in your initial M106 command to set up that fan output.
@justine-haupt said in Large Format Printer:
Whoa thanks everyone. I'll take some detail shots of the toolhead mount soon. Also been debating about whether to publish the BOM and design files.
By the way, that big black bowl-looking thing is half of an integrating sphere.
I didn't notice that - I was too busy looking at the tin of Piroulines
Thanks for sharing this valuable info. Your goodness is appreciated.
Can you advise on the CR-10S, we have dual-Z screws, how would we configure for that? I'm new to board upgrades. Thanks for your help!
Dont look at the paperwork, it was from the wiring on a different printer I have (I was using it as scrap paper for the colour pin outs!) I am using twisted and double screened cable and the colours unfortunately dont quite match the standard so there is a bit of mixing going on. But I have made sure each motor is separate from the other as well as signals etc. There are quite a lot of plugs going into the Duet that need tidying, but the eternal tweaker in me likes the idea of being able to remove and change without having to totally rewire.
I got the integrated ballscrews from Gary Higgins at Zapp Automation. I only used these for compactness in x and y, z has standard couplings). The linear rails came from RS and Zapp.
I'm going to follow this but I'm also going to take a step forward and modify the effector either replacing with a smart effector or similar. I've removed my flying extruder and done a direct mount:
This relieved some issues I had with the bowden line, however I ended up with an odd jamming issue, where at the top of the throat I would collect liquid goo (perhaps the temp was too high for this ABS) which would solidify effectively creating a blockage.
In the process of removing the blockage, I bent the pin of the BLTouch beyond repair, and began to contemplate why the BLTouch sucks. (The hard plastic of the shell of the BLTouch ought to extend down the pin shaft so it doesn't ever have a chance to bend!) For $45 to replace that's just… lame. So, the Smart Effector is probably a next step. Problem is I now have to design a new way to mount the coldend.
I'm looking forward to doing this conversion. I have yet to actually print with the Tevo Little Monster. I was able to do an extrusion.
I'd echo the comment in the linkedin article that what you are building is a high cost, high performance printer. There is nothing wrong with that, but apart from lowering cost by using sheet metal everything else is high spec. A low cost printer is around the $300-500 price point. But I am sure it will be a good machine given its specifications.
Once you've made all the changes you wish, you can either zip it all back up and upload that one file to the Duet via the DWC, or you can replace individual files in the /www directory.
Hint: If there is both a "whatever.xyz.gz" and a "whatever.xyz" file in /www, the .gz will be used. So either .gzip everything, or put the SD card in a PC/Mac and totally clean out the /www directory before putting your stuff in.
the heaters are for the heatbed (300x300mm, the heatbed itself is 610x930x6mm Aluminium), i picked 6 so i can heat the entire heatbed or just parts of it, when printing smaller. I will check the chamber temps with just the heatbed running.
I havent really thought about the filament getting soft, i might have to run some test when warm is to warm
most of the pieces missing for my printer should arrive next week so i can run the first test.
thanks for your input