I appreciate all your help on this. It looks like I've got some revisions to do and some additional testing.

I saw some other things that I'm going to attempt with your setup - hopefully I'll be able to toss the revisions out there for you guys if they pan out.

I had run into another guy using thin film resistors, like a 2512 (imperial) surface mount package in order to do his own strain gauge PCB. I'm hoping that once I can get this up and running and understand the circuit a little better - to replace the meandering traces on the PCB with a set of these. This (theoretically) should open up some board space for mounting some other hot ends (Slice Mosquito, E3D Chimera, etc).

We will certainly pass the changes back upstream if we're successful!

By chance do you have an updated BOM for the SmartEffector? I'm about to order some parts on mouser, and would like to try to iron out any discrepancies in my version.

@ka15574 said in Smart Effector Probe Setup Issues:

@dc42 any idea what the 6 flashes means? If I need to buy another smart effector it would be great if I could do that today

6 flashes means the same as 7 except the sensor output is out of tolerance the other way. It is quite common with the version 2 effector to see 6 or 7 flashes once or twice immediately after power up, and then to get the 2 flashes after the strain gauge amplifier has settled.

Don't throw the one that isn't working away yet. I am investigating some Smart Effectors that passed initial testing but subsequently give 6 flashes.

EDIT: I have re-tested those. All of them work properly, except that some of them flash 6 times once or twice immediately after power up.

Note, it is normal to get 6 or 7 flashes once or twice while the circuitry stabilises. I will add this to the instructions. The version 1 effectors didn't do the same self-test, but many of them also needed a few additional seconds after power up before they responded to nozzle contact.

I just returned from a faire and removed my magnetic rods for transportation. When I got home and reinstalled I was getting the same false positives but only when the heatsink fan was one. When I flipped the magnetic rods closest to the heatsink fan it went away. I have a feeling the magnet poles where adding additional vibration to the heatsink fan

I had the same problem on my delta as well, and the cause was two slightly loose nuts on one of the mag ball holders which unscrewed themselves after a few prints. I recently rebuilt my printer, and opted for nylock nuts for all screws on all moving parts which has higher friction and harder to unscrew themselves. I can highly recommend it 🙂

Understood, thanks! They do still seem to light up. I will look into replacing the resistor if possible at another time. Thank you!

@sirus20x6 said in smart effector crashes into bed. light works:

fixed it! I had a single hair of a wire from the gnd connector on the smart effector end laying across to the next pin, i cleaned it up and dabbed a little liquid electrical tape on the wires coming out of the connector.

Thanks for your help with the config side of things!

I'm glad you fixed it. I had been thinking that a short between OUT and GND would explain the problem, but it seemed unlikely that you would have one.

R11-R14 is the upper side.

Worked like a charm thank you for all the help.

I suspect if the air can be directed very close to the nozzle tip it isn't necessary to provide a 360 degree cooling.

My current plans for the next iteration:

270 degrees cooling, so the nozzle tip can be seen again during printing remove the 'fingers' and prohibit the air from blowing directly at the nozzle so the air stays cooler use a 40mm blower instead of 50mm to reduce footprint and weight maybe use a 40mm blower for the e3d heatsink as well? The fan duct uses a lot of space currently

Any idea where i can get a high quality 40mm 24V blower fan?
The 50mm one i'm currently using has pretty bad vibrations 😞

Maybe the old style silicon sock would be better suited as it shielded the nozzle better.
I suspect the radiated heat from the nozzle is a problem both for the print and the fan duct.

Where the screw that tightens the heater cartridge radiates heat, the fan duct fails first. It burns a hole in the PLA the size of the screw head.

Thank you for the quick response!

Awesome - thanks for confirming!

I managed to get up and running pretty quickly in the end. tapping the probe seemed to take some effort to activate the LED and I wondered if it was just going to bash holes in my printbite during probing, but it works and amazingly well.

nice to know there is that possibility for MOD , I'll implement it when I come to another good reason to take the bed up , the default is fine for now.

And the probe is a totally brilliant solution, I cant get over being done with effector tilt and changing z offsets, measuring all the points again.

I ended up running 2 more wires for my hot end and part cooler fans. Now they work.

@deckingman I would think the arrangement in the top would not be correct for a 3mm filament sized Bowden tube. Also looking at the heat break drawings, the 1.75mm heat break uses a m7x1 thread where for some reason the 3mm heat break uses an m6x1

Regards,

Sam

Wizards, one and all. I knew I had to be missing something. I put a little pat of SuperLube on each balljoint and ran the test again.

6:27:06 AM
Stopped at height -0.172 mm
6:27:05 AM
Stopped at height -0.185 mm
6:27:03 AM
Stopped at height -0.166 mm
6:27:02 AM
Stopped at height -0.172 mm
6:27:01 AM
Stopped at height -0.166 mm
6:27:00 AM
Stopped at height -0.166 mm
6:26:58 AM
Stopped at height -0.166 mm
6:26:57 AM
Stopped at height -0.172 mm
Stopped at height -0.178 mm
Stopped at height -0.166 mm
6:26:56 AM
Stopped at height -0.172 mm
Stopped at height -0.178 mm
6:26:55 AM
M98 P"0:/macros/BLT Repeatability Test"
Stopped at height -0.172 mm

I still have a little bit of tweaking but that's very, very close to the mean error of .009mm

Thank you!

That tool does look correct. I can only assume that they have introduced it recently, because last time I looked the only suitable tool was much more expensive than that.

@elmoret i went ahead and sent that in to you

@dc42 thanks, i added my location to my profile now, never actually thought to before, ive ordered several times from filastruder

i am not sure what voltage it was, i know it burned a line into the cpu on a 3.3v line though and burned one of the legs off, im using my old duet wifi now the burned one is in a drawer

but thank you i will look into those components as soon as i find my multimeter

@quadcells, if you can see the damage and it is localised, and you have a fine-tipped soldering iron, it might be possible to repair it by soldering a single strand from some stranded wire over the break. The traces are only 0.15mm wide, OTOH I've hand-soldered 0201 SMD components (0.25 mm × 0.125 mm) before now.

It would probably be OK to paint some polyurethane varnish or similar on to the PCB to help protect the traces in future.

Nope I'm fresh out of the vibrating tables and I didn't feel any seismic activity 🙂 . I'll contact filastruder.

Thanks again to all for your help,
Bill in colorado