@bberger I have the same problem with increasing the 12mm gap but keeping 55mm arm spacing. My 'solution' is to cut the clip off the connector - I use a pre wired strain relieved molex plug which has a very tight fit, which I am sure is not going to come adrift.

@clearlynotstef said in Phaetus Hotend/ 713 Adapter? [Pic]:

@dougal1957 doesn't align with the hotend holes, only the outside holes would align

I guessed that would be the issue however I am informed by a friend that if you speak to 713maker he will do custom work and for him to just counterbore 4 additional holes shouldn't be a big for him also have you tried using button head screws instead of cap screws that would reduce the hight of the heads considerably and may allow for the 12mm collar to actually seat in the effector and locate it all.

@weed2all said in E3D V6 blue heatsink - did they change pitch size?!:

@bberger I have printed m12 x1mm pitch nut for my 2 e3d blue heatsink and I did left the red whasher in place as it won't weight to much and prevent scratching the fine strands on smart effector if the printed nut have some imperfection on them ...

Not concerned about weight, but I'm a little bit concerned about giving the hotend more chances to wobble around when it's not needed.

Solved: One of my rods had come loose.

I wanted to add this has been a educational thread for me as to some of the constraints on Delta designs.

I don't know if I would switch to a smart effector over the SE300 but a revision that includes this would make me give consideration to losing the print area outside the triangle of the towers.

@incidrthreat
Hi, I have a delta so I'll try to be useful...
The error that is blocking your right probing is this , in "config.g":
Rnnn : Radius to probe

M557 R90 S20 ; define mesh grid

The R parameter MUST be bigger that the value (radius) you set in http://www.escher3d.com/pages/wizards/wizardbed.php bed generator.
Now , as you wrote , they are coincident so they come skipped.
Your radius is 140 so try M557 R120 S20 instead.

Then, cosmetic stuff... I suggest you to erase the G31 line in the config-override and work for the zprobe in config.g for don't make splitted code. And leave geometrical and other auto-calibration in the override.

1)In config-override (remove this line and work in config.g):

; Z probe parameters G31 K0 P500 X0.0 Y0.0 Z-0.31

-What is in G1 "K0" for? in the wiky https://www.reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G31:Set_or_Report_Current_Probe_status it is not mentioned.
I dont know if this can generate errors somewhere. Remove it.
-Try to set "Z-0.1" till you are not certain that all work as it should. Then you'll refine the stuffs.
-P500 . For the smart-effector this line is suggested G31 P100 X0 Y0 Z-0.1. (look at commissioning)
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Smart_effector_and_carriage_adapters_for_delta_printer
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/16758/g31-trigger-value-what-is-it-good-for?=1641345568624

2)In config.g ,despite it come bypassed by the config-override.g ,change the Z from 5 to Z-0.1. 5 mean to fly too hight for the head.

G31 P500 X0 Y0 Z5

For the smart-effector this must be "P8" not "P5"...

M558 P5 R0.4 C"zprobe.in+zprobe.mod"

For the axis limit set a negative value so that if your Z0 is too high (for some reason) and with babystep you have to go really close the bed , you'll can. Set it ex at Z-0.3.

; Axis Limits M208 Z0 S1 ; set minimum Z

After you made those change to the code:

-power off , power on the printer.
-home (G28)
-run a single probe (G30). (it will be slow)
-keep the right height and write it in the override.g M666 H parameter.
-restart the printer
-run at least 3xG32
-in console type M665 for read the actual value and copy ONLY the R in the ovverride.g. (and leave the M666 to 0 for all the items)
In this way you will leave to the auto-calibration the job to recalculate the other parameters. In my experience if you put too much manual settings and they are not perfect , the result come even worse.
So basically for the M665 you can add manually : rod length , radius (after at least 3 calibration) , height.

It's late here in Italy... I dont' know if there are more errors in your files... but I'll collapse .... try those change and let us know 😀

@barracuda72 yes there may well be some dame to the traces or connection points for the sensing components on one side of the board. Its not possible to say without close inspection.

The distance between filament path and motor-backplate is pretty large (compared to Sherpa Mini)
From my experience the motor will foul the rods or the magnet-sleeves pretty soon.
I've designed an 8mm offset effector to make the Sherpa Mini fit between the rod spacing of theSmart Effector.
The LGX lite will need even more offset or a bigger rod-distance.
offset-effector.jpg
The motor just fits at 100mm radius
2021-06-03 10.43.40.jpg

@gaou
And also check the wires , just in case. Can happen that if the movement of the head modify the tension of the cables , in some area of the bed the contacts could be not perfect.
Plus, if is it possible don't calibrate with everything too hot (bed and nozzle) , can occur inconsistency trigger read .

@pcr

thanks for linking. we have some in our range:

https://www.cr3d.de/produkt/hotend-kuehlkoerper-v6/

@o_lampe said in Bondtech LGX Lite for Smart effector?:

@janjoh
I run a modified sherpa mini on my Delta.

That looks quite interesting actually. Thank you for sharing, It's always good with new angles 🙂

@kcramp858 said in Adjust Sensitivity without Duet Board:

When I up to 40 or 50mm/s in the edges, it looks like the acceleration is causing the probe to trigger.. Feels like im stuck between a rock and a hard place, I need to go faster but it keeps triggering early when I go faster.

Triggering during non-probing moves is common and shouldn't be an issue. If it's triggering during the acceleration of a probing move, can you reduce the acceleration? RepRapFirmware automatically reduces acceleration for probing moves.

@t3p3tony
I have my config setup for the piezo would that setup work for a test of will need to modify it..

Thanks gary

So.. I realized that I have a friend travelling US -> Swe in a few weeks.

Guess I'll be getting my 713Maker part yet 🙂

@garyd9 Thanks for making the original design and sharing the STEP file 👍

@achrn said in Sudden 'Probe was not triggered...':

So, I think it is a wire break or a bad conenction or something susceptible to movement, but at the moment it's working again, so I'll leave it alone for a bit.

Gaaah! Last night a 28-hour print job failed (heater fault) at about 23 hours in. Now the nozzle heater won't come on (output indicator LED lights up on the MB6HC, doesn't light up on the smart effector), so I'm thinking I definitely shouldn't have just 'left it alone'.

Not that I'm looking for any advice, just sounding off at myself!

As with most issues that take a while to fix, it was a combination problem. The solid core cable was part of the issue. The other part was that the sensitivity on the smart effector was too low. I set it up to 225.

@t3p3tony no worries. Thanks for posting them