@pschuyler thanks for the prompt

I have uploaded some updated drawings with the 2.0 information on them

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Smart_effector_and_carriage_adapters_for_delta_printer#Section_V2_Num_0

@Lightpath said in Faulty Smart Effector:

@Veti said in Faulty Smart Effector:

C"zprobe.in+zprobe.mod"

This should be in the documentation.

Consider it done.

@pschuyler
I would go for the PCB adapters that come with the smart effector.
They will be more rigid and precise than whatever you could print.

@dc42

Thank you for replying. It's over a year old (and not scratched that I'm aware of.) I'm starting to think it might be related to the "zesty nimble" adapter I have bolted to the top of the smart effector via the three inner holes. (Using M3 screws/nuts and nylon washers to prevent metal to PCB contact.)

I'll try to loosen those nuts (and check my wiring) and if that doesn't help I'll consider replacing it before it goes bad.

Thank you again
Gary

try this. it should fit

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:780379

Thanks! I totally missed the Duet 3 column! Face Palm

@Veti I had not done that as I am able to reproduce the issue manually. If I manually moved the head by hand, wiggle the connector I can cause the failure.

By providing more strain relief for the connector it works without any issues.

First i want to say thank you for everything.
It is working now.
Couple of suggestions:
1.) The ordering of the connections on the documentation (Smart Effector) doesn't line up with the actual 8 pin. Jay pointed out my error.
2.) Update the documentation to reflect the correct green led light or say it could be over here (empty header) or here (by the 8 pin)

So what i think happened is that we had it working shortly after the 6 pin re-do. I was so focused on the green led near the empty header that i didn't see the green led by the 8 pin.
I just happened to see it when i went to take it apart again and touched the print head and saw the green led by the 8 pin.

But thanks again for all the focus and attention.

We hope to have the magnetic filament monitors available again soon.

If you want to ship it to me, I'll take a shot at repairing those traces.

I have a tiny soldering tip and a stereo microscope and some REALLY small gauge wire.

I live in Massachusetts, but I doubt postage is going to be very expensive for this small and light part.

Let me know if you want to try this and I'll PM you my address.

@tgarr No worries about the thread digging, altough quite old, it is still as relevant as it was. In fact I just started a print with the exact same effector design as posted here. The 4th axis attachements are still evolving and I do have some minor changes planned to the effector design but noting major.

I don't use any special washers or something like that. Just the 6 screws (with a regular washer on top) that thread into brass heat set inserts.

In terms of calibration results here's the full DWC output string 🙂 . That is for a 180mm probe radius on a 400mm diameter bed.

Calibrated 8 factors using 18 points, (mean, deviation) before (0.018, 0.046) after (-0.000, 0.043)

The results are certainly more consistent across the entire bed compared to the FSR's I used to use. I am honestly not sure if the 0.043mm deviation is considered good for a 400mm diameter bed.

2021-01-01 14.56.23.jpg

Thank you both for your quick responses and assistance! I'm excited to be able move on to PID tuning, leveling and preparing to do my first print with the new board and effector!

@Veti

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4673242

If you have a Volcano Hotend you can use this Screw Adapter

You are using a high quality cable connection that I can’t imagine that would be the problem when it’s new. The nimble’s drive cable will flex less than an arm will. I would think it would help. The only other suggestion would be to use silicone wiring but I don’t think that would help much over you’re pre assembled wire bundle.

@BigMoff96 said in smart effector 12v/24v jumper question:

@dc42 If my psu itself is 12V and my heat sink fan is 12V. Would My effector need the jumper in that case?

Yes. Without it, the illumination LEDs will be dim.

@Phaedrux I’ll try resetting the sensitivity and let you know how that goes. I switched the probe type to a P1 based off another forum post and it seems to not be staying high after probing. If I change it to a P5 or P8 it will reproduce the behavior I’m seeing.

Hi,

I cannot say anything on the smart-effector, BUT if you have a chamber you DEFINETLY need at least 1 fan + tempsensor that sucks out the hot air on top OUTSIDE of your chamber for the same reason (of course for that you need an inlet at the bottom or side at the bottom) above a certain temperature (for each filament diffrent, define it therfor in filament-config.g)!

Most things like the avarage-joe stepper-motor, pcb, mosfet, you name it will degrade in powers of ten for every +ten of more heat... so for having long fun with your electronics you should take care 🙂

E.G. get an additional thermistor from the duet-website/-reseller that you screw inside your chamber at the top where it is most hot and a 80-120mm fan (do not take the small ones take a big/long one with power because you can still drive it with PWM to use less of its power) and 1 cheap dustfilter for inlet, 1 good for outlet (that the air gets a bit cleaned when it gets in and even more cleaned when it gets back into your room)

In my case for duet2ethernet with RRF3.1.1 an example:

Than e.g. in your config.g put with M308 a new/higher S_ then what is you have already, in my case:

M308 S3 P"e1temp" Y"thermistor" T10000 B4274 C0.9018123000e-7 A"Chamber" ; configure sensor Sx as type"thermistor"/"..." on pin P"..." see https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_thermistors_or_PT1000_temperature_sensors#Section_Thermistor_parameters

and define the fan later, and connect it to the sensor created before, in my case:

;chamber fan: M950 F2 C"fan2" T3 ;Q500 ;! ;Q25000 ; create F=fan(x) with "!" to invert, on pin C; opt set frequency(Q) e.g. for most real 4-wire pwm-fans 25000 (max 65535), ordinary 2-wire must be kept low around 100-500, default seems to be 250 ; set some default vals to start but override it in the print-file with the specific filament-config.g: M106 P2 C"chamber fan" B1.0 L0.9 T40:50 H3 ;X1.0 ; P=num; s=set speed 0-255/0.0-1.0; limit L min & X max; H=heater monitored+Thermostatic control, -1=off or Hx(:__...) monitored; B=blip time in ms; if not thermostatic (H-1) define a board-boot-start-up speed S=fan speed;

I am currently in the state of replacing my temp-sensor with a DHT because besides temperature I can track the humidity inside the print-chamber to get to know how it influences print-quality...

Hope something here is maybe of some use for you, just my experience here... 🙂 Good luck!

@Carlo said in Smart Effector z compensation:

Phaedrux MODERATOR 29 May 2020, 22:52
When you send G28 to home it's calling homedelta which is moving all the carriages to the endstops. This is clearing your calibration

I should have said resetting your homed height established by G30, but in the context of that thread I think it made sense, though not applicable universally.

@bartolomeus said in Print surface for delta with smart effector:

8mm thick plates i

with that i think you need grooves milled in where you can place the magnets

@Adrian52 I used those back in the day, they work well. I printed them in PETG fearing PLA would load creep over time.