Yes I am using e3d hotends, v6 (0.4mm nozzles and smaller) and volcano (nozzle larger than 0.4mm.

Having a own smart effector for every nozzle might be a little overkill, not to mention that it would be a little expensive. The ultimaker-printcore way would be perfect, but I am afraid I would have to design it myself for the smart effector. Probably it might become a little bulky.

But the option with the pigtail connector seems quite nice. I will give it a try.

feil was here:

M558 P8 R0.4 F1200 H10 T6000

must be like this:

M558 C"zprobe.in" P8 R0.4 F1200 H10 T6000

thanks to dc42, he gave a anser at another forum

Thats good to hear, glad you are back up and running.

@felt342 The normal 540-size brushed 24V. If i had more money I'd try a Kamover KVP8. If I had even MORE moneis i would try an airbrush compressor with a servo valve 😄

Thanks for the detailed reply. And I'm glad to hear that it sounds like 1.3 will be fine for me (e3d fan + 24v 30W heater).

Start with 1mm of retraction and see if there is an improvement.

You can use firmware retraction so that you can modify it on the fly during a print. This is useful for the tuning phase since you don't have to rely on the slicer and reslice the whole file again to change the retraction.

https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/6181/tuning-macros-menus-accel-jerk-retraction-pressure-advance?_=1592332339385

These macros may help in your tuning.

@Elvis0z said in Smart effector hotend fault 315c:

@dc42 Just put another sensor in to see what happened and I get this error

M305 P1 x200
Failed to initialise RTD bad response from the sensor.

If you change the sensor to a thermistor you'll need to change the configuration as well. M305 P1 x200 is for a PT100.

@bearer - Well yeah maybe, but that's also the reason for asking, the Smart Effector's central probing angle would make it much less likely to suffer effector tilt. Like.. people with dual nozzles still need to probe their beds one way or another. 🙂

This only matters when probing anyhow, "triggering" when printing wont do anything.

a little late to the party; in theory motion in the x/y plane might let the magnets induce a voltage in the strain gauge which is a coil in that respect. motion in the z axis will have a much less effect.

so if you suspect inaccuracies as a result of the magnets, then just probe slower (which will hep with accuracy in itself regardless of magnets and theoretical coils)

@dc42 Sorry, its the part cooling fans that keep turning on and off as the LED's turn off and on.

David, many thanks for such a rapid response!

If at all possible, I would proto different board thicknesses.

You MIGHT also need to slightly change the code in attiny to account for scaling effects in the tri/spiral strain gauge.

Thanks. I was mostly interested in whether all pins of the 8-pin connector had been soldered (they have), and whether both sides of inductor L1 were soldered down (which is hard to tell from your photo, but unlikely not to be).

@dc42 thanks, will re-wire power to smarteffector...

@bberger Here we go, a video of my Deltex V1 in full action. Youtube

@Mike what size is the RC water jacket? because I have bought one but is 1mm to small to accomodate the E3D radiator.
is your E3D aluminium radiator custom made ?
thx!

re uploading replicator configuration seemed to have solved it but not sure why in first place

@banana_waffles

You can also run G32 before the G29 to set the z=0. Just what ever method you chose, make sure you do it the same way each time. It was a change some time after 2.02 they added that warning.

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Using_mesh_bed_compensation#Section_Establish_a_Z_0_datum_using_the_Z_probe

From my understanding the idea is that before the mesh starts Z=0 needs to be established by some method. The three that I understand are:

G28 (sets the high by homing and then the firmware pulls the height from your printer config) - This may be the least accurate depending on what type of end stops you use.

G30 (sets the Z=0 by doing a single probe) - The guides for Cartesian printers tend to talk about doing it this way and it will work but most Delta printers back off their endstops and that play can make this less accurate. If you use this please make sure you disable this while probing per https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Calibrating_a_delta_printer#Section_Homing_the_machine

G32 (Delta Auto Cal sets many values but one of them is the Z=0) - This is what I prefer and seems to be most common among people using Deltas. If you are using S6 and have 9 to 16 points the accuracy is high and it doesn't take long. At the end of the bed.g you can either probe your mesh or load it and the error shouldn't occur.

One way to see if it is the order you are doing things is if you post your bed.g file as I presume you are getting the error after running a G32?

See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connector_and_spare_part_numbers#Section_Fan_mosfet.

Glad you got it sorted!