LOL. Can't believe that I neglected to count the zeroes.

@veti not by much at all really, mine were only like 5 bucks more each

Thank you. This was driving me nuts.

@dc42
It's work
with this code M581 E0 T1 S0 and paused the print and T0 make emergency stop

@dc42 Thanks for the answer David,
unfortunately I am limited by the speed of withdrawal of my extruder "ED3" this one mache filament when I put a speed too high.
On the other hand I try to print a cube in vase mode and I have no problem, I must find the difference in my setting in my profile Simplify 3D.

Looking forward to doing a review on this printer. Latest issue (after shelving it over yuletide) came to light this morning after finally soldering the 14AWG wire to the MK3 Alu heat bed. Measured resistance and I see 0.7 ohm. That's neatly about 200W and I see no shorts to the aluminium. I make that 17A through a 11A poly fuse. That along with disabled firmware thermal protection is boarding on a real liability for them. Checked against a spare MK3 board and it has a much higher resistance and thinner tracks.

My guess is that it's connected with running the motor in stealthChop mode. In that mode, the driver tries to use the minimum current necessary. If you change the load suddenly then that current may be insufficient.

The driver tunes stealthChop during the initial movements. You might find that you get more consistent behaviour if you change your homing files to make a tiny relative XY movement (at least 1 microstep), pause for a few milliseconds (G4 command), and then perform homing. This is because the driver prefers the motor to be stationary for a short while after the driver is enabled. The delay provided by the current firmware may not always be sufficient.

@satchel17_ said in Looking to add pneumatic extrusion for bio-printing on duet wifi:

which method do you think would be easier.. modifying the firmware (i would be very lost) or running commands through an Arduino

Then I suggest you put the code to read the pressure sensor and regulate the pressure on an Arduino. A 3.3V Arduino will be easier to interface to the Duet than a 5V one.

Yeah I think you got it now.

So you take the result of G30 S-1 from the console, and put that in G31 Z.
Then if you still need to adjust the first layer with baby stepping you can use that value to fine tune the G31 Z value.

Thanks for that

@phaedrux I was wrong. They stay in the graph after reboot. Very useful. I'm using it to monitor my chamber heater, and control the heater with the chamber heater air temp.

@antiman167, you need to provide RRF with an accurate value for the diagonal rod length (M665 L parameter), and approximate values for the delta radius (R parameter) and height of the nozzle above the bed when all three carriages are triggering the endstop switches (H parameter). The R and H values will get adjusted when you run auto calibration - see https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Calibrating_a_delta_printer.

https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/425/how-many-steps-per-second-does-the-duet-handle
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/4464/300-mm-s-270k-steps-second
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/7962/tmc2660-what-khz

@phaedrux Thank you again!!

The T parameter in the M109 and M104 command selects the tool that the command applies to, hence the letter T. It wouldn't make sense for it to be a heater number, because you can assign any heater(s) to any tool.

For maximum flexibility, configure your slicer to use G10 commands to set the tool temperatures, and let the firmware handle standby temperatures if you are using multiple heaters. However, the way that most common slicers use M104 and M109 is compatible with RRF.

Filezilla is the recommended FTP client. If you can get the windows client to only use 1 concurrent connection you might get it working.

@oliof
thanks will give it a bash.