It works !

Send M562.

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode

@jasper said in Slow WiFi upload:

To conclude it had nothing to do with duet3d WiFi. Sorry for the inconvenience, now time for some more printing with this awesome board 🙂

Glad you got it sorted. Can you now mark this thread as "Solved".

Lets take it apart and post it!

HI
solved the problem changed out sensor and all worked fine
then put old ir probe back and problem recurred - so appears to be a faulty probe ansd with new probe found printing is better - maybe erratic homing with old sensor?

Rob H

I will check again to make sure but was your BlTouch working while it was doing this? Mine keeps working just fine while it is doing this. I do get quite a few the probe was triggered before move messages.

Oh geez, I was wrong, it works. The buttons like 3d inversed. With the pin unselected, the button is pressed down, with the pin selected, the button is sticking up.

Every other button-ee interface I've seen that uses buttons on that arrangement uses the down button as selected.

@bot said in Crimping Tool:

@calvinx said in Crimping Tool:

@bot said in Crimping Tool:

The reason that ratcheting crimp tools are specified for aerospace use is because they are the only handheld method of getting a reliable crimp. A manual, non-ratcheting crimp tool does not provide a consistent, reliable pressure.

Use a manual, non-ratcheting crimp tool at your own peril.

So that means that those with no skill can use the ratcheting type then......

And conversely if you are handy with non ratcheting type crimper's and have skills no peril is involved...

I disagree. The fact that every time you crimp with the manual tool, you have a different result (because the amount you squeeze will not be the same each time) leads me to understand why the manual tools are completely written-off in aerospace work.

Sure, if you don't mind every once in a while having a bad crimp, or questioning whether or not you have a good crimp, go ahead and use a bench vise for all I care!

I'm simply suggesting that there is no time or money to be saved by using a manual, non-ratcheting crimp tool.

Also, in regards to the notion that a ratcheting-type tool is more difficult to use -- I do not understand this either. IMO, it's EASIER to use the ratcheting tool, although, not faster.

Of course, you need to test the tool to see if it makes good crimps with specific crimp pins. Once you determine that the crimps are sufficient, it will produce that same good crimp every time, no matter how lightly or hard you squeeze the handles.

With a manual tool, you're guessing each time if you applied enough, or too much pressure to the crimp. This, especially, comes into play with the insulation side of the crimp pin -- the manual type have no index to prevent over-pressure, and over-crimping this part is a pretty bad mistake.

So yes, it's at the user's own peril that they use a manual tool -- whereas with a ratcheting tool that has been verified to produce good crimps, there is not much peril at all.

I revert back to my earlier assertion, with time and experience my findings are what i am going to go with, if you think i am wrong that's fine, i really don't give two hoots what you think and I am not looking for your permission to do things the way I feel is best for me.

DUUUUUUUUUUUDE!! THANK YOU VERY VERY MUCH- That's enough to get me going! I did read that article but thought I could get by without the expansion boad- Change of plan now and I ordered one. I'll circle back and let you know about my success/failure rate LOL!

@dc42 Yes I have a PanelDue. No... it does not appear there even when the macro is executed from PanelDue.

Same behavior as DWC: Right after resetting the macro works (it halts at the end of the macro but works until that). But If I execute anything before it (like a G32) it does halt after the first M291 S3 as Busy and does nothing.

Why not use a set of feeler gauges to check the Z accuracy? Home Z, command the head to Z=0.3 or 0.5 or anything else as long as it is higher than your 0.2mm Zmin limit, and use the feeler gauges to check the accuracy of the gap between the nozzle and the bed.

Yes, I'm currently working with feeler gauges.

Yes,I tried the see all notifications button and that works fine as long as you have not opened any to read. Is there a way to see all the notifications that you have posted in? I ususally try to print them out and save for future reference.
Thanks

Okay, there are a few possibilities.

First off, ensure that you are getting correct movement of the mechanics. Normally, if you use X+, as you are facing the machine, the print head should move to your right. If you use Y+ the print head should move away from you (Or the bed should move towards you.)

What you are describing seems to be opposite motion for the X axis, which will indeed flip your model.

Assuming that drive 0 is X, drive 1 is Y, drive 2 is Z, and that Y and Z are moving as expected...

Change that line to:

M569 P0 S1 ; Drive 0 goes forwards

Then you need to change your homex.g and homeall.g files:

The following are mine, based on a printer that has the home switches at X=245mm, and Y axis=280mm

Note that this opposite for your Y axis, so you would change the homeall.g from this to send the head in the negative Y direction. You'll also want to change the size of the move to endstop according to the motion limits of your printer.

homex.g

; homex.g ; called to home the X axis ; G91 ; relative positioning G1 Z5 F6000 S2 ; lift Z relative to current position G1 S1 X235 F1800 ; move quickly to X axis endstop and stop there (first pass) G1 X-5 F6000 ; go back a few mm G1 S1 X10 F360 ; move slowly to X axis endstop once more (second pass) G1 Z-5 F6000 S2 ; lower Z again G90 ; absolute positioning

homeall.g:

; homeall.g ; called to home all axes ; G91 ; relative positioning G1 Z5 F6000 S2 ; lift Z relative to current position G1 S1 X245 Y280 F3000 ; move quickly to X and Y axis endstops and stop there (first pass) G1 X-5 Y-5 F6000 ; go back a few mm G1 S1 X10 Y10 F300 ; move slowly to X and Y axis endstops once more (second pass) G90 ; absolute positioning G1 X110 Y137.5 F3000 ; center print head G30 ; Use Z probe to home Z G1 X220 Y275 F3000 ; Go to axis maximums

edit: Mucked up the homeall.g. Oops, and @dc42 ninja'd it in,

i think what you are looking for is a much-simplified version of Duet Web Control.

@3dmntbighker I did! I took my printer apart expecting to toss this thing in as soon as it showed up lol.

@davea said in Cancel print issue:

Note that there is no resurrect-prologue.g file on my printer.

That file would need to be created by yourself if you wanted to be able to use resume after power failure.

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Setting_up_to_resume_a_print_after_a_power_failure

Thank you for your help once again. Issue solved.

Done. Works!

Thanks again!

You should use M591 as I said before. Use M122 to read back the status of your filament sensor while testing it.