@dc42
great! that's I I want to hear 🙂

@supraguy said in Is head movement defined in mm ?:

@danal yeah, I get that, and basically the OP question was answered by dc42 (Which I also reiterated at the bottom of my post)

Just really, when you tell the printer to move 1mm, what the firmware does instead is say "I'm going to send x number of pulses to the stepper motor driver with the forward direction set."

Agreed!

However... When the printer is told to move 1 unit, it sends many MORE pulses if there were a prior G20 than a prior G21.

The U endstop should be connected to the E0 endstop connector. Is that where you have connected it?

Thanks a lot! This works fine! 🙂

Hmmm...ok..

Thank you for your assistance anyhow,..one for the memory banks...

@typqxq said in Probing failsafe with motor stall:

Sounds like a good idea for Z with the mecanical endswitch.
How about X and Y?
When my optical switch didn't trigger the motors bent the belt.
3 times...
Bothe steel reinforced and the fibre reinforced ones.
Would lowering the X and Y current while homing help with that maybe?

Yes to reducing motor current while homing - always a good idea IMO. Because homing usually takes place at slow(ish) speeds, you can reduce the current by quite a lot. You can either simply set the motor currents by using M906 or you can set a percentage reduction by using M913. Both will achieve the same result. Put the command at the start of the homing file(s) but don't forget to either put the motor current(s) back to what you normally use, or set the percentage reduction to 100, at the end of the homing file.

I don't bother with additional switches for homing X and Y as they home very close to the minimum travel - about 2mm from a hard stop, so there really isn't room for a second back-up switch without losing some travel. But should a switch fail, then the reduced current will prevent any serious damage.

I do however have additional switches fitted to all the axes maximum travel - set to trigger just before a hard stop. In normal use these aren't needed, as once the machine has been homed, and providing you have set the axes maxima correctly, then the firmware won't allow moves beyond those maxima. However, I often work on the printer and tend to allow axis movement before the homing has been done, so in the event that I do something stupid, the switches will trigger an emergency stop and prevent damage.

To keep the wiring and configuration simple, all the switches are wired in series and normally closed, and connected to a single end stop on the duet. So if any one triggers, then it will initiative the emergency stop. It's generally best practice to wire switches normally closed, then if a wire falls off, it will fail as if the switch has triggered, which is safer than not see the trigger.

HTH

@peirof said in Simulation mode:

T0:21.0 /0.0 B:20.1 /0.0

That means that the file you are trying to print contains some M105 commands to report temperatures. They will be reported during actual printing too. Those commands are probably in your start and/or end GCode scripts. You can remove them.

Yes but you also need to limit the number of sides to about twice the hole diameter in mm.

When the nozzle turns a corner the filament likes to take a shortcut and cut the corner, making it rounded. When you have a less corners they are further from the desired circle, so when they get rounded they are still outside it. I found empirically that when the number of sides is twice the diameter the rounded corners just about lie on the circle, so you get the roundest hole that is still the right size.

Since I design exclusively on OpenSCAD it is not problem for me to make all holes with poly_cylinders instead of cylinders. My STL files then print correctly with any slicer and toolchain.

When printing other peoples designs, my old machines that run from my own host and firmware have the ability to detect circles in the g-code and convert them. That enabled me to print thousands of Mendel parts without having to ream all the holes.

As a follow up, remapping driver 2 to Z caused issues, extruder wasn't turning, and getting "Error: motor phase A disconnected on drivers 2"

Removing driver 2 resolved it.

Perhaps he's referring to the one he was talking bout here:
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/5942/someone-help

There was advise given in that thread, but I haven't read through it all.

Edit: Oh. There's not much to read, and no followup on what he has or has not tried.

@Mikesplane Please provide some information which might get you started. You were offered some advise in your ole thread that we have no idea what you have and have not done.

@fickert said in Stall homing: Is it less accurate with a 24v supply vs 12v?:

I am not super familiar with EMF but if it isn't using current as its measuring parameter then that is all I was concerned with.

As for the high inductance motors, is there something specific I would need to search for to determine a high inductance motor vs a standard/low inductance motor? I am looking to use a 0.9 degree stepper on my z axis, is there something else I should be shooting for?

Lower current motors have higher inductance. For the Duet WiFi/Ethernet, choose motors with a rated current of at least 1A, preferably a little higher. There are motors available with rated currents of 1.2A and 1.33A.

High inductance motors limit the maximum speed you can use before torque starts to drop off and stall detection stops working, but using 24V power instead of 12V mitigates this.

@Duckle Makes sense, before upgrade it was ninja silent, now it resonates a wee bit.
Gotta say I thought my 8825 was quiet, but this is wonderful. I do however miss not being able to hear if it actually runs 😛

Anyways first test print of the cube was good.

Think I need to tune my PID, get the BLtouch sorted and fully calibrate the extruder it's off by +.07mm on the cube, and figure out some non duet stuff like why I still get vertical bands after upgrading to linear rails.

I will undoubtfully return with more questions later haha.

What do you have now? Smart Effector by our host a great choice.

Good point, the tpre should allow extruder movements. Is there a way I can change the firmware myself or do I have to wait for the next release. Thanks

@deckingman

Thanks for links.... Very interesting info.

@stephen6309 said in G28 Z probe off set:

@nickt Add a G1 line that moves the probe to a safe place, like the center of the bed.

... to your homez.g file and to the Z homing part of your homeall.g file. See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/ConfiguringRepRapFirmwareCartesianPrinter#Section_Homing_Z_using_a_Z_probe for examples.

You may find this of interest to you, particularly the section on finding your steps per MM: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Going_from_Marlin_on_Arduino_to_RepRapFirmware_on_Duet

I agree that 4000 for the Z axis seems a little arbitrary.

Did you get the latest windows 10 update that was rolled back?