I put mine on Thingiverse and included the open scad file. Here you go http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1830918.
It takes a fan internally to blow air on the underside of the board. I've made two and have them mounted one above the other on the fame as I plan on having the duex5 in it's own enclosure but you could play around with the file. I'm not an OpenScad expert but you should be able to make sense of the file.
You need to disable Driver signature verfication in windows 10 64 and then Bossa 64 will install
If the probe reading only drops to 600 when the sensor is activated, then it sounds to me that it isn't compatible with a 3.3V supply. One possibility is to run it from 5V and feed the output through a couple of resistors to an NPN transistor which drives the E0 endstop input.
I'll probably add a firmware option to invert the Z probe polarity for type 1, 2 and 5 Z probes at some point, then you will be able to connect it directly.
Added mine to Thingiverse as well http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1830918. It has an enclosed 80mm fan to blow on the underside of the board, exhausting through slots top and bottom. Cable entry is left side but I've included the open scad file so it'd be easy enough to change.
Several metres is no problem, but I recommend that you limit the resistance per conductor to 0.1 ohms. For really long cable lengths you can reduce the baud rate. However, if you are using the ribbon cable to connect the SD card socket on the version 2 PanelDue then the maximum recommended ribbon cable length is 0.5m and I have only tested up to 0.8m.
Yes you will need a pull up resistor. You will also need to cancel thermostatic mode for fan 1 so use M106 P1 I1 H-1 S0 at the start of config.g.
Another way is to use one of the heater outputs on the expansion bus. If you will be using a DueX5 then it will provide 5V PWM outputs for you already.
We are waiting for the prototype DueX5 PCBs, they should be ready any day now.
Since it is an employment requirement, breaking the policy would likely result in job action so that is why I do not consider a non-public SSID an option. I will probably just operate via USB until I move off campus (last year at this job). Thank you for the help, I missed the documentation on USB control.
Please measure 3.3V and ground on the sensor itself, between the top end of the inductor labelled L1 and the ground test point between D2 and R3. If you are getting 3.3V between those but the LED doesn't flash about 5 seconds after power up, then your sensor needs to be replaced.