I imagine crashing the nozzle into your build surface could cause quite a bit of damage!
And you'd be right!
However, the magnetic ball joints let go before it does any damage.
The torque multiplication was part of what I wanted. Fast printing needs high acceleration which requires torque.
On a different (commercial) project I found the stretch in timing belts to be an issue moving the end effector fast - it needed high precision and the elasticity in the belt caused judder in the position. That was solved using lead screws - and hopefully they will benefit this for the same reason.
Hi, was looking for a Wiring forum. I was having trouble with noise getting into my Ste-per motor signals going to my extrude-rs. the result was printing a circle the extruder would over extrude on a then under extrude. I was able to mitigated to and extent with configuration, but it was still there. When i got my new WIFI board i polled the old Duet controller out of my case and put the DuetWIFI board in. this left me with wires that were tin'd with solder, but no connectors. As i was eager to try the board out i Crimped the connectors on my wires and went to get a new configuration setup for my printer. after fighting the issue stated above, i decided to try and old trick we used to use refer-bushing old equipment, and solder the wire Crimped in the connectors. another trick i used (Old Audio trick) was to twist the wire harness wires before reinstalling them. Walla, problem solved. being and older gentlemen, i was reminded of Murphy's law. Go the extra mile when changing or wiring your printer. It will save some time
I Know what you mean my current bed is 400x400 (Or was till I chopped the corners of for the Delta and that is 6mm which is fine.
If you remember we spoke about the temp issue and I pointed out that I drilled my plate to put the thermister closer to the top surface tho out on the periphery of the bed the heater I have ordered I have asked for there to be a 20mm diam hole at the centre of iut to allow me to get the Thermister as close to the top of the center of the bed as I can (I have some that are mounted in a M3 Brass carrier so I will drill and tap the center of the bed to take one of them.
Dont think it would be easy or even possible to brace the center without beefing up the whole bottom section especially taking into account the silicon pad?
To follow up from another post: In fact bed.g with G30's in it, or config.g with M557's behave the exact same: I had a bug where I was crazy under-extruding, that I fixed at the same time I switched from bed.g to the M557 test. Switching back to bed.g with the correct extrusion steps now has the exact same behavior as the M557's in config.g. I like the separate bed.g macro, so I think I'll stick with that. But thanks for the help troubleshooting!
The PCB is designed to.provide the majority of the cooling with large areas of copper on the underside. Heatsinks on the top of the stepper drivers chips are unnecessary. If you are running them at quite high power then a fan blowing across the board, especially the underside will help cool it
It takes a fan internally to blow air on the underside of the board. I've made two and have them mounted one above the other on the fame as I plan on having the duex5 in it's own enclosure but you could play around with the file. I'm not an OpenScad expert but you should be able to make sense of the file.
If the probe reading only drops to 600 when the sensor is activated, then it sounds to me that it isn't compatible with a 3.3V supply. One possibility is to run it from 5V and feed the output through a couple of resistors to an NPN transistor which drives the E0 endstop input.
I'll probably add a firmware option to invert the Z probe polarity for type 1, 2 and 5 Z probes at some point, then you will be able to connect it directly.