I solved it by using a good old 7400 NAND chip, used as an inverter, with a pull-up resistor on the input. Seems to work nicely.

Hi, was looking for a Wiring forum. I was having trouble with noise getting into my Ste-per motor signals going to my extrude-rs. the result was printing a circle the extruder would over extrude on a then under extrude. I was able to mitigated to and extent with configuration, but it was still there. When i got my new WIFI board i polled the old Duet controller out of my case and put the DuetWIFI board in. this left me with wires that were tin'd with solder, but no connectors. As i was eager to try the board out i Crimped the connectors on my wires and went to get a new configuration setup for my printer. after fighting the issue stated above, i decided to try and old trick we used to use refer-bushing old equipment, and solder the wire Crimped in the connectors. another trick i used (Old Audio trick) was to twist the wire harness wires before reinstalling them. Walla, problem solved. being and older gentlemen, i was reminded of Murphy's law. Go the extra mile when changing or wiring your printer. It will save some time

Glad to hear it!

Great, thanks!

Someone else reported something similar in another thread, with a similar-sounding thermistor. AFAIR it turned out that there was a short circuit between the braid and one of the thermocouple wires.

Not as glad as I am!

PG35Ls do get very hot in my experience although I have not used the Ultibots ones. Adding a fan or a good heatsink is a really good idea especially as the gears were plastic on the ones I had.

I got it taken care of there was a line in my config that was the problem.

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP..

Tom

I ended up replacing the motor. now it works

Awesome. I'll run up a page on the wiki when I get chance. If your wiring up a stepper from scratch on a PCB then it not so easy if it's a first time job!

Ian

I Know what you mean my current bed is 400x400 (Or was till I chopped the corners of for the Delta and that is 6mm which is fine.

If you remember we spoke about the temp issue and I pointed out that I drilled my plate to put the thermister closer to the top surface tho out on the periphery of the bed the heater I have ordered I have asked for there to be a 20mm diam hole at the centre of iut to allow me to get the Thermister as close to the top of the center of the bed as I can (I have some that are mounted in a M3 Brass carrier so I will drill and tap the center of the bed to take one of them.

Dont think it would be easy or even possible to brace the center without beefing up the whole bottom section especially taking into account the silicon pad?

Doug

To follow up from another post: In fact bed.g with G30's in it, or config.g with M557's behave the exact same: I had a bug where I was crazy under-extruding, that I fixed at the same time I switched from bed.g to the M557 test. Switching back to bed.g with the correct extrusion steps now has the exact same behavior as the M557's in config.g. I like the separate bed.g macro, so I think I'll stick with that. But thanks for the help troubleshooting!

The PCB is designed to.provide the majority of the cooling with large areas of copper on the underside. Heatsinks on the top of the stepper drivers chips are unnecessary. If you are running them at quite high power then a fan blowing across the board, especially the underside will help cool it

I put mine on Thingiverse and included the open scad file. Here you go http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1830918.

It takes a fan internally to blow air on the underside of the board. I've made two and have them mounted one above the other on the fame as I plan on having the duex5 in it's own enclosure but you could play around with the file. I'm not an OpenScad expert but you should be able to make sense of the file.
HTH
Ian

Cheers dc will check it out

Think i will still stick with your original ones for any future purchases. Was just interested if you had seen them.

Yes, I very well understand that.

PanelDue with a 7" screen draws about 700mA from +5V. The Duet itself draws less than 200mA. So 3A should be plenty.

You need to disable Driver signature verfication in windows 10 64 and then Bossa 64 will install

http://www.howtogeek.com/167723/how-to-disable-driver-signature-verification-on-64-bit-windows-8.1-so-that-you-can-install-unsigned-drivers/

Would be great if the new expansion board offered the ability to have USB Host