As it looks like you have managed to remove the old terminal block without damaging the PCB, you might consider fitting a new terminal block. It's a standard size 32A one AFAIR.
I suggest you check the PCB temperature in the vicinity of the soldered joints you have made when the heaters are running at full power.
Today I updated the Firmware, Wifi Server and Web Interface to 1.19 and AJAX problems started. The board could only stay connected for like 10 seconds. Luckily I was able to fix it. What worked for me was changing the Wifi transmission channel of the router to "1" (it was set to "automatic"). If you don't know which channel to use, then download this program:
It's a free tool and you don't need to install it. Once you launch it, it will scan the wireless networks in your area and display a lot of info about them. Locate the Channel header, and click it to sort by Wi-Fi channel. Switch to the less crowded one. 1, 6 and 11 are the most frequently used.
Hope it helps.
EDIT: oh… you tried this already =(
I had a board which had been damaged and some of the thermistor channels would read fixed values no matter what I did with them (usually 2000 degC) but if you haven't had a short of other issue and vssa is not blown then that seems unlikely. How have you got your themistors etc.. configured?
If I may step in here because my CoreXY has almost exactly the same bed dimensions - 400 x 400 x 10mm thick tooling plate. I don't use any form of software/firmware bed levelling or flatness compensation because there is no need. If the bed is flat, it doesn't need to be compensated and if it's level and stays level, there is no need to adjust. Having started with a Mendel built from a kit, and having to do all sorts of compensation before every print, I can say that life is now so much easier. Now I just turn on the printer, select a file and hit print - the start gcode takes care of the heating and initial homing.
I'm not saying all this because of any desire to boast or brag, merely that you are in an ideal position to achieve the same results. If you use 3 lead screws (my recommendation would be to avoid course lead, multi start screws) spaced such that one screw is near front left, another is near front right and the third is in the centre at the rear you can lift the bed with a continuous belt and a single Nema 17. Trust me, it works. The screws should only provide lift and should not be used to constrain the bed. This should be done by using linear guides. You only need two - one at each diagonally opposite corner. To initially level the bed, I simply slacken the grub screws holding the toothed pulley on to the screw, and rotate the screws. This only needs to be done once when it's first assembled, then maybe once again after a few hours of use.
You might find my blog useful, particularly this page https://somei3deas.wordpress.com/my-corexy-printer-build/
1. Correct. Stop/3v3/gnd are a set of endstop connector pins, exactly the same as on the Duet.
2. Any of the 4 endstop inputs on the X4.
3. All heater and fan outputs are whatever voltage you feed to the Vin terminals. There are no flyback diodes on the heater and fan outputs, so if you connect a relay coil, brushed DC motor of other inductive load, you must add a flyback diode.
4. I haven't seen any filament tension sensors either. We'll consider adding a "beep until acknowledged" option to the M291 command.
4. Use M581 to set up a macro to execute when one of the input pins changes state. See https://duet3d.com/wiki/Using_servos_and_controlling_unused_I/O_pins for how to control output pins.
Fair enough. Sounds like a simple python program to mimic the temperature plotting bit of the web sever would be the way forward, and hope the update frequency catches the spike if present. I'll keep this in mind and put it on the 'to tackle later' shelf unless it becomes more critical.
A bit of topic but not too far IMO:
How about connecting 4 motors on a single (external) driver? To maintain the needed voltage same, would it work connecting 2 pairs in series and then those pairs parallel?
Just poundering the simplest way to make my bed move with 4 motors.
You can connect the two Y motors to the Z motor connectors and connect the single Z motor to the Y motor connector. Then use the M584 command in config.g to swap the Y and Z drivers over.
For power supply sizing see https://duet3d.com/wiki/Choosing_the_power_supply.
I don't know the Bltouch, but it's a good idea to test a new Z probe. Deploy it and check that the value displayed in the Z probe box in DWC is close to zero. Then trigger it and check that the value rises to around 1000.
In your deployprobe.g file, you might need to add a G4 delay command after the M280 command, to give the probe time to deploy.
Yeah, they didn't until I took the components off the board. I wanted to avoid normally open. The 10kOhm appears to be right on the limit of what the duet decides is off. Strip the components off and you can use normally open or closed.
Thanks for the help. I am new to this all. I am coming from delta and repeater firmware. so it is not even close to what I am used to.bed and hot ends go in this week so hopefully by Saturday I can get a first print. I also need to find a way to adjust the timing on the leadscrews. I think they are off from about 5-10mm from each other. that will level everything out.