Here's the start of the printer. It is mainly assembled from laser cut 1/8 inch thick 5052 aluminum (surprisingly affordable if you find a good supplier) and Misumi 2020 extrusion.
It is still very early in the assembly phase, but I need to get a start at configuring the firmware to test the Z axis before I get too far along in assembly (made that mistake before and had to tear everything apart to solve binding).
Thank you both for the suggestions. I've replaced the fan with a Nanoxia Deep Silent 60 - much better. It does transport less air, but since I've rather over-sized the power supply and won't be running it at full power, I hope this won't be a problem.
Ok, I found the bug. I don´t know why that is so, but never mind. I changed the wire orientation of the thermistor and that was it. Is there any diode in the thermistor or why the orientation matters? I thought that a thermistor is a restistor with a almost linear restistance dependency to the temperature.
I thought so too - it shouldn't matter which wire goes to which side of the thermistor. Maybe you have a bad connection somewhere which coincidentally got disturbed when you were swapping wires? I can't see anything obviously wrong with your configuration.
I just tested this 30mm 24V fan http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191458206299/. It works with PWM at the default frequency, right down to S0.1. But I can feel that at full PWM it is pushing less air than the E3D fan.
I used to have a fan shroud on my E3D hot end that took a 40mm fan, and I may return to that approach in future if the fan noise annoys me too much.
Would it be possible to upgrade a Duet Wifi to Duet Ethernet?
You might consider selling the Duet Wifi and buying a Duet Ethernet. The cost differential would likely be about what a Ethernet upgrade board would be, maybe less.
It depends on your print bed surface and your type of printer:
The IR sensor is small and light (it fits below the heatsink of an E3D hot end). It needs just 3 wires to connect. Its main disadvantage is that if you use a transparent print surface, you need to take precautions to minimise reflections from the back of that surface.
BLTouch is more complicated to wire (5 wires) and set up, not open source (with patents applied for) so somewhat against the spirit of what reprap and duet3d stand for, larger and heavier. But it should work on almost any bed surface. I haven't used one, but others on this forum have,
ordered my IR sensor from filastruder last night , decided it was a better option.
thanks for the information
Thanks for the suggestions. I did reduce the motor current through config.g, but obviously not enough.
Leave the motor current in config.g - best to set it to about 80% of the motor rating. Just set it to a low value at the start of your homing files (and remember to set it back up at the end of the homing file).
The G31 P value is intended to set the threshold for analog sensors. The fact that it can be used to debounce noisy digital Z probe inputs is a by-product of the filtering that is applied. A Z probe reading is taken every 2ms and that is passed into an averaging filter. The filer takes the average of the last 8 readings. For an analog Z probe, the reading is whatever the probe returns. For a digital Z probe, it is 1000 when the probe output is active and 0 when it isn't.
The upshot of this is:
Events shorter than 2ms in duration may not be seen
If you use a digital sensor and you set the G31 P parameter to 125 or less, then a single active reading from the probe is sufficient to cause a trigger
If you set the threshold between 126 and 250 then you need two readings out of the last 8 to be active to cause a trigger
The 2ms interval between readings is a hangover from the old code that used the Arduino core, and I'll probably change it to 1ms before the 1.18 release.
Yeah… How do I make an embarrassed face lol.
I figured the 104 thing out last night. Once you choose proper values (I ended up using a 1 nF capacitor), such a simple circuit is quite effective at filtering the high frequency noise with almost no impact on the signal.
There is a 12V regulator on the DueX5 but not on the Duet. You can wire the fans as you say; or if all your fans are 12V, you can remove the fan voltage select jumper on the Duet and feed +12V to the centre pin of the jumper block instead.
Schematics are at https://github.com/T3P3.
I'm leaning towards the idea that in my case, with the PC close by, the PanelDue isn't going to give me anything apart from being a backup if I can't use my PC for any reason…............. But then that might be a useful backup facility to have......... And then again, I hadn't considered that if the Printer had a PanelDue attached, I could relocate it............hmmm...........
Thanks for the feedback guys