If it heats quickly to 200C and then takes a long time to reach 220C then it sounds as though the auto tuning has over estimated the gain parameter. Let your hot end stabilise at 220C and then send M573 P1 to find the average PWM. Divide that figure into (220C - room temperature) and see how that figure compares with the 471 found by auto tuning.
What I find interesting with this is that I just click the temp and dial it down to zero, as I didn't realise there was an "on/off switch". It's nice to know there is one, but doing it that way wasn't that annoying, if I wanted it off quickly I'd set 0 in web control, or hit emergency stop.
I only added it in PanelDue yesterday. DWC has had it for much longer.
That's right but if you want to move to a specific position before heating like an ooze bucket as I used to have then you can move in the script but S3D does the heating always before your script is executed.
Using those variables disables the automatic heating and you can place it yourself where you want in the startup procedure and do a move first or leveling before heating to the final print temperature…
Sounds pretty good to me, the standard deviation of the set of bed probing points you have is between 1 and 2 hundredths of a millimetre. I think that will probably do the trick. I am getting down to 0.02 usually and my printer is fairly "no compromise". How does a bed level test spiral across the entire bed look? Are your calibration objects dimensionally accurate?
My other delta, a much less rigid machine, manages to using Rich Cattell's marlin, derive a solution to 0.05mm after about 30 minutes of trying.
I think the only thing which would enhance this accuracy would be to then grid level, to compensate for any unevenness in the bed. But I think this feature is planned for the 1.17 firmware release.
Just to clarify for anyone else. Slic3r has 3 speeds for infill under "Print Settings". There is "Infill" (speed for printing internal infill), there is "Solid infill" (Speed for printing solid regions - Top/Bottom/Internal horizontal shells), and there is "Top Solid Infill" (Speed for printing uppermost external layers).
The first layer of solid infill uses none of the above - it uses Bridge speed.
I'm glad it worked. Looks like I forgot to change the colour of the calibration spots when you select the dark theme. The dark theme isn't finished yet because I need to palletize the icons so that they use sensible colours in both themes.
The usual cause of clunking sounds is that the print head has turned through a significant angle e.g. 30 or 45 degrees and you have a high jerk speed configured. S3D tends to generate this sort of pattern in skirts, unlike the smooth curves that slic3r generates. I use an octagon test pattern to check for excessive jerk setting.
yeah and e steps are perfect.
Just fixed it. was about to give up and realized I never set up my filament cleaner with a little canola oil on the new printer. just did a test piece and works like a charm on the first try. I guess there was a little too much friction in the hot end that the canola oil is helping with. Forgot how much it helped on my other delta.
Just changing to the correct steps/mm fixed it. I didn't have to do anything with H values as my machine was pretty structurally accurate, and I didn't have any noticible effector tilt. It's printing pretty well without me doing any additional tweaking.
When I thought about it some more it made sense - if the carriages aren't where they're supposed to be due to the wrong steps/mm, there will be more or less travel for each carriage required to lower the probe down to the point where it triggers. I stumbled onto it because I was checking everything to do with how I set up the stepper drivers - 80 steps/mm was the default and I just never changed it. I used the stepper calculator here: http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/ and put in my belt (GT2) and 16 tooth pulley, it said 100, I swapped that into my config file, and it now probes correctly. Double check your pulley and belt info with that calculator - it might be your issue too.
It's great that you are staying busy. Forums here was one of the deciding factors for me to switch to DuetWifi, and I really love it. I have tried Replicape, and although I liked it too, I could not make it work without support.
I wouldn't worry about "being last to the party," some actually never make it, and many, like me, still need help. Besides, most of us are here because we like it and not because we are in a race to get somewhere. Regardless of how my Rostock is going to turn out, I think I will build at least one more printer, maybe more.
Good luck on your study, and if you have a chance, share at least some aspect of your build, or a print that you have made. It doesn't have to be educational either; there is a special forum here for showing off:)
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