I ran into the same situation with my T3P3 Kossel XL for a couple weeks (2 issues resolved a week a part)
Pulley not tight enough (slipping)
Pulley not on correct position of shaft (too far in or out)
Once I corrected those build / mechanical issues, flawless with near consistent 0.017 std dev between calibration runs; no bed mesh compensation needed.
Thanks, I'll put the T0 into the config.
My intention is to use the web interface, but I print in a garage and my WiFi signal is weak. I haven't got a network cable in there yet. I am looking to use a WiFi extender, but I'm keen to get my 3d printer back up and running again. Anyway the advice dc42 gave me has fixed the heater problem. So time to get steppers working now.
You would know best,
I think it would be very easy to set up with some M commands to have the end stops to act as the Z probe.
so you can home the delta,
the test each end stop one at a time,
the G code would:
1. select the end stop in test to act as the Z probe ( so we can still use the G30 P command,)
2. configure to run the motor reverse for the end stop being tested.
3. run the selected G30 P# S-1x number of times then report back the mean and deviation ( this would only activate the one motor for that end stop)
4. run G code to select the next end stop / motor to be tested and run step 3 again
5. do the next end stop Ect.
6 configure back the to standard settings in the config.g
I would think that with your understanding of how each M command configures things we should be able to do this in this manner described above.
that was just a description and I'm sure it will be more complicated than that but that's the basic idea…
Well, no error messages or codes, it just kinda decided to run bed leveling starting from away from the endstop and moving toward it. After it scaring me twice, I reset the x probe area to 200 and let it run and it works fine.
My map comes up with the axis indicator(those xyz lines that form a partial box) on the right now instead of the left, kinda confusing at first but it works so I must adapt.
And I did get a perfect first layer so it's definitely functioning right.
I'll mark this as answered because it does work.
I adjusted my voltage to 13.06v (the pot changed tons for just a tiny movement, so I called it good) and my heated bed will now reach 105 C uninsulated by the cork sheet on top, so that's nice. It also heats up to my usually temperatures (60 and 70 C) noticeably faster. I think I'm going to call it good for now.
Using this scripting process you could make outside lines to have special accel/jerk and keep the non visible prts at max speed
Juat read the scripting and add the gcodes for each part
Yes, it seems that this was the issue. I've used the tool at reprapfirmware.org but I still don't really understand what the difference is between "Trigger height at Z axis" and "Trigger height on bed" which are shown when i chose de Switch Tab in the Z-Probe section. Both their tooltips are the same and it seems to me that their value should be the same too, so why do I have to configure both?
Anyway, I got it almost working by manually adjusting the configuration file, but on the first try to print something, it failed because the hotend temperature sensor failed. i had the turn the printer off and on again in order to get it working again. Sadly after it failed a second time it went into reading 2000 degress since then. I'm using a PT-100 sensor and the daughter board and i even switched to the second RTD Pin but it's still reading 2000degrees. I've even replaced the sensor with no luck. Could it be that the daughter board is broken now or might it be the Duet itself?
Thanks for stating your reason for doing this. The communication issue is that someone comes along and reads this without understanding the consequences. This happens all the time and I spend a lot of time helping people unlearn things they've read and they take for best practice. Using the slicer to compensate for calibration issues is not a best practice, That's all!
nevermind i mangaged to sort it out just incase newbies like me read this and have the same issue i had the G92 command set wrong for my printer set it correctly and it works as intended thank you very much for all your help and dealing with my troubles
Fan0 is the print cooling fan by default - it's the most important one to be able to control.
The default configuration of Fan1 is documented at https://duet3d.com/wiki/Connecting_and_configuring_fans.