The usual cause of clunking sounds is that the print head has turned through a significant angle e.g. 30 or 45 degrees and you have a high jerk speed configured. S3D tends to generate this sort of pattern in skirts, unlike the smooth curves that slic3r generates. I use an octagon test pattern to check for excessive jerk setting.
yeah and e steps are perfect.
Just fixed it. was about to give up and realized I never set up my filament cleaner with a little canola oil on the new printer. just did a test piece and works like a charm on the first try. I guess there was a little too much friction in the hot end that the canola oil is helping with. Forgot how much it helped on my other delta.
Just changing to the correct steps/mm fixed it. I didn't have to do anything with H values as my machine was pretty structurally accurate, and I didn't have any noticible effector tilt. It's printing pretty well without me doing any additional tweaking.
When I thought about it some more it made sense - if the carriages aren't where they're supposed to be due to the wrong steps/mm, there will be more or less travel for each carriage required to lower the probe down to the point where it triggers. I stumbled onto it because I was checking everything to do with how I set up the stepper drivers - 80 steps/mm was the default and I just never changed it. I used the stepper calculator here: http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/ and put in my belt (GT2) and 16 tooth pulley, it said 100, I swapped that into my config file, and it now probes correctly. Double check your pulley and belt info with that calculator - it might be your issue too.
It's great that you are staying busy. Forums here was one of the deciding factors for me to switch to DuetWifi, and I really love it. I have tried Replicape, and although I liked it too, I could not make it work without support.
I wouldn't worry about "being last to the party," some actually never make it, and many, like me, still need help. Besides, most of us are here because we like it and not because we are in a race to get somewhere. Regardless of how my Rostock is going to turn out, I think I will build at least one more printer, maybe more.
Good luck on your study, and if you have a chance, share at least some aspect of your build, or a print that you have made. It doesn't have to be educational either; there is a special forum here for showing off:)
Perfect, thanks for the clarification!
I don't think it's essential to have m665 return more precise values, but it might be a good feature to have so it isn't confusing for some people. It was slightly confusing for me, and I think I did end up inputting the rounded up value into config.g rather than .246 (I mean, 4 microns is not much :P)
The purpose of the standby temperature is to prevent oozing. The standby temperature isn't normally controlled by the slicer, it's set by G10 Pnn commands in your start gcode. See http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G10:_Tool_Offset. I use a standby temperature of 150C when printing PLA, and in combination with some retraction in the tfree#.g file this is very effective at preventing oozing.
To set the standby temperature the same as the active temperature, in most slicers you can do something like this in your start gcode:
G10 P0 S[first_layer_termperature] R[first_layer_temperature]
G10 P1 S[first_layer_termperature] R[first_layer_temperature]
Alternatively, in your M563 commands in config.g you can declare that both tools use both heaters, then they will always both be heated to active temperature and they will both heat up at the same time.
Part cooling fan, I was tuning with this turned off so i just turned it on and used the same tuning parameters of "M303 H1 P0.4 S240". It reached 145.5C and completed in 370 seconds. Maybe if i should be now putting the PWM back to 0.5 if i'm tuning with the fan on…
If you don't isolate the thermocouple from the heater block then it is likely to pick up noise. Also, heater cartridges occasionally fail with a short between the element and the heater block, so unless you isolate the thermocouple you risk getting a short between the heater voltage and the thermocouple input.
I recommend that you get the E3D cartridge thermocouple and compatible heater block, then you can be sure of isolation and good thermal contact. You may wish to buy the E3D silicone sleeve at the same time.
Ah, I see the problem - I was misreading my data sheet by a factor of ten. So the numbers made it look like there was a huge advantage to using two high temperatures; turns out it helps a little bit and only throws the room-temperature reading off by a few degrees.