Better bowden clips
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Hi,
Im using the smart effector with its heat sink and a normal e3d orig. volcano usually with a 0.8 nozzle and a flying bowden bond QR extruder with a length of 100mm. Usually I print with 22mm³/s which should be well in the range of a volcano according to this page https://www.printitindustries.com/pages/print-speed-calculator.
With those extrusion speeds I have the problem that the bowden clip on the heat sink regularly pop out. I had installed a 2nd bowden clip seen here 0_1564932301635_IMG_20170408_204458.jpg and here
which worked with one of those https://e3d-online.com/threaded-bowden-coupling threaded couplings. (The pics are from an old version that didnt use the smar effektor but you get the drift hopefully.)However this was very bulky and used a lot of space on the upper side of the effector, so when I recently did maintenance on the whole hotend I removed the extra clip hoping that it would work.
I managed one hour of print time before the clip popped out again. So I wonder if there are stronger/thicker clips with bigger teeth to bite into the bowden tube or if there is a hole other solution to this, that I havent thought of.Cheers
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@sungod3k, are you referring to the green C clip in the picture? You can print your own at any thickness you need.
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Yeah the link was misleading. I mean the black insert in the link. And on the foto I mean the whole construction. The lower green part hold a screwable bowden connector (the black one with the upside down "F")
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@sungod3k, I thin that the black thing is called 'fitting' or 'coupler' https://www.amazon.com/s?k=bowden+fitting&i=industrial&ref=nb_sb_noss_1 and the part with teeth that actually holds the tube is called 'collet' https://www.amazon.com/s?k=bowden+collet&i=industrial&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
Hope that it will help you find better ones.
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yes, youre right. i should stick to the right terminology from the beginning. There are enough choices out there and I wanted to post the ali links of the ones I used, but the anti spam is blocking that.
in the meantime I found a drawing of the updated construction
(again in green). As you can see it uses the 3 mounting holes around the center and is big enough to fit around that main nut that holds the heatsink.The main issues with this is that it blocks access to the nut if you want to reposition the hotend and reaching the collet /collet clip to pull the bowden tube out is really cumbersome.
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The collet is a standard part of the E3D v6 hot end. So you might want to post about this on the E3D forum. Maybe it's worth trying a new collet, and checking that your PTFE tubing isn't under size.
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Threading a nut onto the tube allows you to secure the nut, and thus the tube easier. This makes it harder to remove from wherever you secure it to, but that’s an idea.
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@bot thats good thinking! although the nut is M12 and the couplers are usually m10.
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Which nut is m12?
I mean to find any nut that will thread onto the end of the tube, and grip it tightly. Then you have some geometry to grab onto with a custom mount that holds the tube in place via the attached nut. You could also just use aircraft lock wire to simply tie the nut down to the effector in three opposing directions.
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Most, if not all, of the fittings and collets that we use were made for plumbing. There are a LOT of them from many different manufacturers.
I'd try ordering a couple of different ones from E-Bay, etc. Likely you'll find one that works.
But... first... I'd replace the bowden tube. That one "looks skinny" in the photos. Could be an illusion.
