Duet 2 Wifi with SE300
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I have since changed the PID to 25% and located and selected the e3d thermistor in the configurator, still no change to the outcome and cant find any info on recommended se300 settings.
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Is your printer still running from 12V, or have you upgraded it to 24V? It looks like the heater is way overpowered.
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It is a 24v power supply, which I thought was fine per the wiring diagram sheet (12-25v input). Please excuse my ignorance, your help is greatly appreciated. Does this mean that I would need to replace it with a 12v power supply?
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I should also point out that the heated bed heats up normally, and seems to be just fine. It is only the hot end that is having a problem.
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Well you would either have to change to a 12v PSU or upgrade whatever 12v parts you have to 24v.
This would typically be the heater cartridge and fans -
Exactly what I needed to know, thanks a bunch. I have purchased two genuine e3dv6's throughout my time and they both accepted 12v or 24v. When I saw that e3d designed the hot end for the se300 I just assumed it too would be the same. It does indeed look like the heater cartridge that comes with the se300 is 12v only, which would explain my problem here.
I THINK that my bed is 12v or 24v, but I will verify when I get home. Other than the duet wifi + SE300 (which includes fans) & whip, everything else on my printer is the same, and has been running off of the 24v supply.
If my bed can pull enough power to heat to sufficient temps, I would think I shouldn't have to worry about replacing any additional components to power off of 12v instead. Does this sound right?
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Uhm, are you sure the same heater can accept 12v and 24v; and not that its just possible to order them with 12v or 24v? Such a heater cartridge would have to have three terminals somehow.
Some beds are dual voltage, but would need to be rewired to change from 12v to 24v, typically a solder bridge or jumper wire.
Any 12v fans would have to be replaced or powered off a 12v source or they'll be short lived.
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Regarding the hotends - It is quite possible I got that incorrect, and just got lucky when I ordered them in the past. Thanks for the tip about switching the wiring around on the bed if it is indeed dual voltage. I will check it out when I get home and see what I am working with, but I think it may be this one, which is designed for 12v, but says you can just limit the PWM signal at 24v to keep things in check.
I would suspect that if it is not safe practice, that they wouldn't mention it on the product page, but if it's not for whatever reason I would appreciate a heads up. You guys rock, thanks for the help!
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You can limit the PWM duty cycle to use a 12v heater with a 24v supply; however its only the firmware keeping them in check, a thermal fuse is highly recommended.
Review the P parameter for M303
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M303_Run_heater_tuning -
So it turns out my bed is indeed a 24v - I went ahead and converted an old xbox PSU to a 12v supply and hooked it up. Everything is now functioning properly with the inconvenience of my bed heating rather slowly. It still reaches and maintains 60-70C which is plenty considering I almost exclusively print with PETG. The trade-off of the noise from my 24v to the complete silence of my 12v is worth it alone IMHO. I may look at replacing my bed later on down the line, but foresee this being suitable for the near future. Thanks to everyone for your help, greatly appreciated.