Trying to set up Duet WiFi in very small increments.

crchisholm

@phaedrux : I am really not clear on what's going on. I edited the config.g file and saved it and reset the board. Went back in and my changes are there, but I see no evidence that they took. I tried to setup a static IP and also added the line you suggested above (M564 H0). It still seems to be using the IP assigned to it from DHCP, and I still can't get any movement from the motors.

This is probably a no-no, but didn't see a way to attach. Here is the config.g contents.

; Configuration file for testing TMC2660 stepper drivers on Duet Ethernet and Wifi with V1.20 firmware

FOR TESTING ONLY! USE https://configurator.reprapfirmware.org/ to generate configuration files for your printer!

; Communication and general
M111 S0 ; Debug off
M550 PDuetTest ; Machine name and Netbios name (can be anything you like)
M551 Preprap ; Machine password (used for FTP)
M564 H0 ; allow motion when not in "home state"

*** Ethernet networking: The following lines are used for factory testing - PLEASE REMOVE THEM
*** I modified, to setup a static IP
;M540 P0xBE:0xEF:0xDE:0xAD:0xFE:0xED ; MAC Address
M552 P192.168.0.230 ; IP address
M554 P192.168.0.1 ; Gateway
M553 P255.255.255.0 ; Netmask

;*** Networking
M552 S1 ; Turn network on

M555 P2 ; Set output to look like Marlin
G21 ; Work in millimetres
G90 ; Send absolute coordinates...
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves

; Disable Fan 1 thermostatic mode
M106 P1 H-1

; Axis and motor configuration
M569 P0 S1 ; Drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1 ; Drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S1 ; Drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S1 ; Drive 3 goes forwards
M569 P4 S1 ; Drive 4 goes forwards
M574 X2 Y2 Z2 S1 ; set endstop configuration (all endstops at high end, active high)
;*** The homed height is deliberately set too high in the following - you will adjust it during calibration
M665 R105.6 L215.0 B85 H250 ; set delta radius, diagonal rod length, printable radius and homed height
M666 X0 Y0 Z0 ; put your endstop adjustments here, or let auto calibration find them
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16:16 I1 ; Set 16x microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80 Y80 Z80 ; Set axis steps/mm
M906 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E800 I60 ; Set motor currents (mA) and increase idle current to 60%
M201 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E1000 ; Accelerations (mm/s^2)
M203 X20000 Y20000 Z20000 E3600 ; Maximum speeds (mm/min)
M566 X1200 Y1200 Z1200 E1200 ; Maximum instant speed changes mm/minute

; Thermistors
M305 P0 T100000 B3950 R4700 H30 L0 ; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the bed thermistor ADC correction
M305 P1 T100000 B3974 R4700 H30 L0 ; Put your own H and/or L values here to set first nozzle thermistor ADC correction
M305 P2 T100000 B3974 R4700 H30 L0 ; Put your own H and/or L values here to set 2nd nozzle thermistor ADC correction

M570 S180 ; Hot end may be a little slow to heat up so allow it 180 seconds

; Adjustments for dummy heaters on test rig
M307 H0 A250 C140 D5.5 B1
M307 H1 A250 C140 D5.5 B0
M307 H2 A250 C140 D5.5 B0

; Fans
M106 P1 S-1 ; disable thermostatic mode for fan 1

; Tool definitions
M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0
G10 P0 S0 R0 ; Set tool 0 operating and standby temperatures
;*** If you have a single-nozzle build, comment the next 2 lines
M563 P1 D1 H2 ; Define tool 1
G10 P1 S0 R0 ; Set tool 1 operating and standby temperatures
M92 E80:80 ; Set extruder steps per mm

; Z probe and compensation definition
;*** If you have a switch instead of an IR probe, change P1 to P4 in the following M558 command.
M558 P5 F100 T6000 X0 Y0 Z0 H3 ; Z probe is a Smart Effector and is not used for homing any axes R0.4 not used. Reduced F300 to 100
G31 P100 X0 Y0 Z-0.25 ; Set the zprobe height and threshold for Smart Effector

;*** If you are using axis compensation, put the figures in the following command
M556 S78 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Axis compensation here

M208 S1 Z-0.2 ; set minimum Z

T0 ; select first hot end
; M117 Use https://configurator.reprapfirmware.org/ to set up your printer config

Phaedrux

Posting your config here is perfectly fine.

The best way to set a static IP is to use the router to set a DHCP reservation for the duet rather than get the duet to force a static IP.

What are you sending to test the motors?

dc42

Can you confirm that you have applied 12V or 24V power to the VIN terminals, and the blue LED on the Duet is lit?
Send M122 from the web interface and check that it reports that the VIN voltage is in the range 11V to 25V.
To test the motors by themselves, first send G91 to put the firmware in relative motion mode. Then send G1 commands with the S2 parameter. For example, G1 S2 X10 should move the X motor by an amount that gives 10mm of axis movement. G1 S2 X-10 will do the same but in the opposite direction.

HTH David

crchisholm

@phaedrux said in Trying to set up Duet WiFi in very small increments.:

Posting your config here is perfectly fine.

The best way to set a static IP is to use the router to set a DHCP reservation for the duet rather than get the duet to force a static IP.

What are you sending to test the motors?

I have internet access through Spectrum. I found that the default password for my router would not work. I talked to Spectrum and they changed it to the default but it changed back the first time the router was reset, and now they insist they don't allow their customers to manage the router. Sucks. I will try again though.

I was not trying to move the motors through G code, but rather through the HTML interface. I will try what DC42 suggested with G code as soon as I get back to my lab.

Thanks!

crchisholm

@dc42 said in Trying to set up Duet WiFi in very small increments.:

Can you confirm that you have applied 12V or 24V power to the VIN terminals, and the blue LED on the Duet is lit?

Send M122 from the web interface and check that it reports that the VIN voltage is in the range 11V to 25V.

To test the motors by themselves, first send G91 to put the firmware in relative motion mode. Then send G1 commands with the S2 parameter. For example, G1 S2 X10 should move the X motor by an amount that gives 10mm of axis movement. G1 S2 X-10 will do the same but in the opposite direction.

HTH David

M122, the machine status and my multimeter agree on 24.1 volts.

G1 S2 X10 worked. The rotation is slow. Can you tell me how to bump the speed up? I will be using lead screws throughout so I need to understand the limits of torque vs speed on this machine with these motors.

My Gcode skills are practically none existant and I need to do something about that. Can you recommend a good tutorial or other source to sharpen these skills.

This pretty much tells me that I can make the motors work (to some degree) and that's what I needed to get myself started. Thank you very much.

Phaedrux

Here's your gcode bible. I suggest having it open in a tab at all times.

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/GCode

You can specify the feedrate with the F parameter for G1 moves. Your max speed limit set in config.g is likely more than enough (333mm/s) for travel moves.

For lead screw based movement you may want lower acceleration and jerk values. Perhaps @SupraGuy has some suggestions there as I believe he has a fully leadscrew based printer as well.

crchisholm

@crchisholm said in Trying to set up Duet WiFi in very small increments.:

The best way to set a static IP is to use the router to set a DHCP reservation for the duet rather than get the duet to force a static IP.

Hmmm. I got the mac address of the Duet from an IP scanner, went into my router (uBee) and entered a new static lease pointing to that mac address and entered the IP I want to use. Had no effect. Still pulling the DHCP ip.

There's nothing in the setup or config that I need to tell it to use the static IP? I already have an entry in the config.g (above)

I also sent an email to uBee support, but I'm not holding my breath until they respond.

AndreS

On DuetWifi M552, M553 and M554 have no effect, they are for DuetEthernet. For Duet Wifi use M587 with parameter I(,J,K).

SupraGuy

@crchisholm said in Trying to set up Duet WiFi in very small increments.:

G1 S2 X10 worked. The rotation is slow. Can you tell me how to bump the speed up? I will be using lead screws throughout so I need to understand the limits of torque vs speed on this machine with these motors.

It depends on the screws that you're using. I'm using T8*8 screws, but I'm not trying for really high speed. I've set a max feedrate of 120mm/s (7200mm/min) in my config.g, and most printing is done at 75mm/s or less. (I think that I've configured bridging in slic3r to 80mm/s)

Acceleration is at 650mm/s^2 on the X axis, 400mm/s^2 on the Y axis, because the Y axis is heavier, and jerk is set to 900mm/min, and I don't see any problems with curves or circles, though I am seeing some visible ringing on the Y axis, so I may reduce Y jerk to see if that takes care of it. I believe that I could bump up my acceleration values somewhat, but the current settings seem to produce a reasonable trade-off between speed and quality.

@crchisholm said in Trying to set up Duet WiFi in very small increments.:

> M201 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E1000			; Accelerations (mm/s^2)
> M203 X20000 Y20000 Z20000 E3600			; Maximum speeds (mm/min)
> M566 X1200 Y1200 Z1200 E1200			; Maximum instant speed changes mm/minute

On mine, that looks like this:

M566 X900 Y900 Z12 E120          ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X7200 Y7200 Z780 E1200      ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X650 Y400 Z20 E450          ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)

My values are a lot more modest, and though it's not the fastest printer in the world, I'm quite satisfied with its speed and ability.

crchisholm

Thank you Supraguy! I too am not really that concerned with speed, but would like to get to an optimal point between speed and functionality/quality. I am after quality. My belt driven printers have not been where I would like them to be.

At present, I am still working on the physical structure of the printer and at the same time trying to get a handle on the Duet WiFi controller.

What type printer is yours...cartesian, delta, etc? Are you using Nema 17s? Z- probe? 12 or 24v? Me: nema17, 24v, just now starting on my end stop, so the z-probe is a future decision.

SupraGuy

My printer is a Cartesian. It's self-designed. I won't say that there aren't shortcomings tot he design, but I did learn a lot from building a couple printers before this, and I too came to the decision that the belt driven ones had shortcomings that I wanted to see if I could do better. As of the prints that I did last night (New gantry pieces) I think I might have what I want.

I did some playing with acceleration and jerk settings (after some troubleshooting with baby-stepping) to get good results, but I forgot to take photos of the results. It finished about 5:30 AM this morning.

For PETG, I'm using honeycomb infill, which is definitely slower, but I find its much more reliable and consistent with PETG than the standard rectilinear at lower infill percentages, but it's also slower, particularly with lowered acceleration and jerk settings, since the print head is constantly changing directions.

I am quite happy with the results that I have so far, though there is of course some room for improvement. My next target is to look at retraction settings, and probably pressure advance.

crchisholm

Well, your a good bit in front of me. I got the frame worked out and have the X,Y and Z screws mounted, but a lot of small stuff still to hash out. I am tring to figure out the best place to put the X and Y stops and trying to figure out if I want to jump into a z-probe. If I do, I suspect I will start with a TL Touch. I haven't bought the hot end yet. Probably a E3d Titan. At this pace, I don't anticipate melting any plastic for a while yet. Got the printer for that though.

SupraGuy

I managed to break my extruder carriage last night, and had to print a new one. I filmed printing a layer. This is set in Slic3r with perimeters printing at 45mm/s, infill at 55mm/s, so it's a little slow, but I get next to no ringing at these speeds, so it's suitable for parts that need a good fit for things, in this case the LM8UU bearings that need to be sandwiched inside. You can see that the accel/jerk values slow down the honeycomb infill a little.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qPBlJEIhc5o

Please ignore the terrible noises coming from the X movement, it's because I broke the nut mount on the carriage, and it's zip-tied in place, which puts some weird stresses on the anti-backlash nut, but this morning I woke up to a fairly nice new carriage on the print bed, so I should be able to install that tonight, and have a nice quiet printer again.

That's one thing that I notice, is that my leadscrew printer is MUCH quieter than the MBot printer is, or what I remember my I3 to have been. The screws don't make the same noise as the belts do when running at the same speed settings on each.

crchisholm

@supraguy I watched your videos. What extruder are you using?
I may have gone overkill on some of my construction, but for me, building is the best part, so I don't mind over-doing.

Yours is the first time I've seen a DIY Lead Screw machine working. Very encouraging. Is this running PETG? I ordered a kilo to experiment with on my belt machine, but then it occurred to me I might be making a mistake. I go back and forth between ABS and PLA sometime with no real issue. I just reverse extrude to backout the material when the extruder is cold and everything comes out clean. I understand that PETG tends to stick to metal more than the others. Do you think I am going to find myself with a problem getting the PETG out of the extruder clean to go back to PLA or whatever?

My plan is to use 1.75 PETG on the new machine and continue to use 3mm PLA and ABS on the belt machine. One thing is certain about my plans though....the always change mid stream.

timcurtis67

@crchisholm I switch between PLA and PET-G all the time. You won't have any issues purging PLA with PET-G.

When switching over I set my temp at 230C. No problems at all.

SupraGuy

I'm using an E3D V6 clone hot end with an Amazon extruder. It was supposed to be a Bowden extruder (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06XPFSY3F/?coliid=IX8CW2V5YGT0R&colid=38O416I9FE2TM&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it) but I took the pneumatic fitting out, and instead, I ran a 1/4" NPT to 3/8" hose barb fitting. I put the hose barb into a 6mm thread die, so it is now a 6mm male thread to 1/4" male NPT adapter. The V6 clone had a 1/4" BSPT pneumatic adapter in it. BSPT and NPT are close enough to thread into each other, though the threads will not seal, due to a slightly different cut angle on the threads.

The leadscrew printer has only ever printed PETG. I have never put PLA or ABS through it. It does stick to the heat block and nozzle quite a bit, no idea what it's doing inside, but I imagine that it comes out pretty quickly when filament is changed, it's all just melted plastic after all.

On my MBot printer, I have tried running PETG, but have never managed a successful print through that hot-end. Trying never seemed to hurt the PLA or ABS that I run through that printer though, and it doesn't seem to need any longer to purge any remaining colour.

crchisholm

Well, this may have been for nothing. Something happened a few minutes ago. I was at my desk with my back to work bench. The Duet was on but not doing anything while I read documentation. I heard a small pop and found that now, I can not connect to it or ping it. The wifi blue light is on and solid and all the other lights are are on, but no go.

Phaedrux

@supraguy said in Trying to set up Duet WiFi in very small increments.:

You can see that the accel/jerk values slow down the honeycomb infill a little.

You might be interested in trying gyroid infill. It may be better or it may be worse. The change in direction is more gradual, but then maybe the higher speeds would fair worse with the rotational momentum of the lead screws.

One other thing I've found to help with PETG infill and keeping it off the nozzle is to set infill to every other layer or more to let it lay down at a higher layer height.

Phaedrux

@crchisholm Sorry to hear that.

crchisholm

@dc42 Edited for clarity

My Duet (or at least the wifi module) seems to be dead. I have contacted my reseller, but so far only get a recording and no call back. Email faired no better. I will give it more time to see what happens (have no choice).

Charlie