Trying to set up Duet WiFi in very small increments.

AndreS

On DuetWifi M552, M553 and M554 have no effect, they are for DuetEthernet. For Duet Wifi use M587 with parameter I(,J,K).

SupraGuy

@crchisholm said in Trying to set up Duet WiFi in very small increments.:

G1 S2 X10 worked. The rotation is slow. Can you tell me how to bump the speed up? I will be using lead screws throughout so I need to understand the limits of torque vs speed on this machine with these motors.

It depends on the screws that you're using. I'm using T8*8 screws, but I'm not trying for really high speed. I've set a max feedrate of 120mm/s (7200mm/min) in my config.g, and most printing is done at 75mm/s or less. (I think that I've configured bridging in slic3r to 80mm/s)

Acceleration is at 650mm/s^2 on the X axis, 400mm/s^2 on the Y axis, because the Y axis is heavier, and jerk is set to 900mm/min, and I don't see any problems with curves or circles, though I am seeing some visible ringing on the Y axis, so I may reduce Y jerk to see if that takes care of it. I believe that I could bump up my acceleration values somewhat, but the current settings seem to produce a reasonable trade-off between speed and quality.

@crchisholm said in Trying to set up Duet WiFi in very small increments.:

> M201 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E1000			; Accelerations (mm/s^2)
> M203 X20000 Y20000 Z20000 E3600			; Maximum speeds (mm/min)
> M566 X1200 Y1200 Z1200 E1200			; Maximum instant speed changes mm/minute

On mine, that looks like this:

M566 X900 Y900 Z12 E120          ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X7200 Y7200 Z780 E1200      ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X650 Y400 Z20 E450          ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)

My values are a lot more modest, and though it's not the fastest printer in the world, I'm quite satisfied with its speed and ability.

crchisholm

Thank you Supraguy! I too am not really that concerned with speed, but would like to get to an optimal point between speed and functionality/quality. I am after quality. My belt driven printers have not been where I would like them to be.

At present, I am still working on the physical structure of the printer and at the same time trying to get a handle on the Duet WiFi controller.

What type printer is yours...cartesian, delta, etc? Are you using Nema 17s? Z- probe? 12 or 24v? Me: nema17, 24v, just now starting on my end stop, so the z-probe is a future decision.

SupraGuy

My printer is a Cartesian. It's self-designed. I won't say that there aren't shortcomings tot he design, but I did learn a lot from building a couple printers before this, and I too came to the decision that the belt driven ones had shortcomings that I wanted to see if I could do better. As of the prints that I did last night (New gantry pieces) I think I might have what I want.

I did some playing with acceleration and jerk settings (after some troubleshooting with baby-stepping) to get good results, but I forgot to take photos of the results. It finished about 5:30 AM this morning.

For PETG, I'm using honeycomb infill, which is definitely slower, but I find its much more reliable and consistent with PETG than the standard rectilinear at lower infill percentages, but it's also slower, particularly with lowered acceleration and jerk settings, since the print head is constantly changing directions.

I am quite happy with the results that I have so far, though there is of course some room for improvement. My next target is to look at retraction settings, and probably pressure advance.

crchisholm

Well, your a good bit in front of me. I got the frame worked out and have the X,Y and Z screws mounted, but a lot of small stuff still to hash out. I am tring to figure out the best place to put the X and Y stops and trying to figure out if I want to jump into a z-probe. If I do, I suspect I will start with a TL Touch. I haven't bought the hot end yet. Probably a E3d Titan. At this pace, I don't anticipate melting any plastic for a while yet. Got the printer for that though.

SupraGuy

I managed to break my extruder carriage last night, and had to print a new one. I filmed printing a layer. This is set in Slic3r with perimeters printing at 45mm/s, infill at 55mm/s, so it's a little slow, but I get next to no ringing at these speeds, so it's suitable for parts that need a good fit for things, in this case the LM8UU bearings that need to be sandwiched inside. You can see that the accel/jerk values slow down the honeycomb infill a little.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qPBlJEIhc5o

Please ignore the terrible noises coming from the X movement, it's because I broke the nut mount on the carriage, and it's zip-tied in place, which puts some weird stresses on the anti-backlash nut, but this morning I woke up to a fairly nice new carriage on the print bed, so I should be able to install that tonight, and have a nice quiet printer again.

That's one thing that I notice, is that my leadscrew printer is MUCH quieter than the MBot printer is, or what I remember my I3 to have been. The screws don't make the same noise as the belts do when running at the same speed settings on each.

crchisholm

@supraguy I watched your videos. What extruder are you using?
I may have gone overkill on some of my construction, but for me, building is the best part, so I don't mind over-doing.

Yours is the first time I've seen a DIY Lead Screw machine working. Very encouraging. Is this running PETG? I ordered a kilo to experiment with on my belt machine, but then it occurred to me I might be making a mistake. I go back and forth between ABS and PLA sometime with no real issue. I just reverse extrude to backout the material when the extruder is cold and everything comes out clean. I understand that PETG tends to stick to metal more than the others. Do you think I am going to find myself with a problem getting the PETG out of the extruder clean to go back to PLA or whatever?

My plan is to use 1.75 PETG on the new machine and continue to use 3mm PLA and ABS on the belt machine. One thing is certain about my plans though....the always change mid stream.

timcurtis67

@crchisholm I switch between PLA and PET-G all the time. You won't have any issues purging PLA with PET-G.

When switching over I set my temp at 230C. No problems at all.

SupraGuy

I'm using an E3D V6 clone hot end with an Amazon extruder. It was supposed to be a Bowden extruder (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06XPFSY3F/?coliid=IX8CW2V5YGT0R&colid=38O416I9FE2TM&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it) but I took the pneumatic fitting out, and instead, I ran a 1/4" NPT to 3/8" hose barb fitting. I put the hose barb into a 6mm thread die, so it is now a 6mm male thread to 1/4" male NPT adapter. The V6 clone had a 1/4" BSPT pneumatic adapter in it. BSPT and NPT are close enough to thread into each other, though the threads will not seal, due to a slightly different cut angle on the threads.

The leadscrew printer has only ever printed PETG. I have never put PLA or ABS through it. It does stick to the heat block and nozzle quite a bit, no idea what it's doing inside, but I imagine that it comes out pretty quickly when filament is changed, it's all just melted plastic after all.

On my MBot printer, I have tried running PETG, but have never managed a successful print through that hot-end. Trying never seemed to hurt the PLA or ABS that I run through that printer though, and it doesn't seem to need any longer to purge any remaining colour.

crchisholm

Well, this may have been for nothing. Something happened a few minutes ago. I was at my desk with my back to work bench. The Duet was on but not doing anything while I read documentation. I heard a small pop and found that now, I can not connect to it or ping it. The wifi blue light is on and solid and all the other lights are are on, but no go.

Phaedrux

@supraguy said in Trying to set up Duet WiFi in very small increments.:

You can see that the accel/jerk values slow down the honeycomb infill a little.

You might be interested in trying gyroid infill. It may be better or it may be worse. The change in direction is more gradual, but then maybe the higher speeds would fair worse with the rotational momentum of the lead screws.

One other thing I've found to help with PETG infill and keeping it off the nozzle is to set infill to every other layer or more to let it lay down at a higher layer height.

Phaedrux

@crchisholm Sorry to hear that.

crchisholm

@dc42 Edited for clarity

My Duet (or at least the wifi module) seems to be dead. I have contacted my reseller, but so far only get a recording and no call back. Email faired no better. I will give it more time to see what happens (have no choice).

Charlie