questions on z axis on a prusa style 3d printer
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Hi,
Just been thinking on squeezing extra accuracy into the bed leveling on my printer.
Currently using a chinese 12mm inductive sensor, need to test repeatability, may switch this out for either BLtouch(traiangle labs)/Omron Cube proximity sensor(WN for ALIexpress).I've already turned up the current to 870 and have also slowed down the 201/3 of the z axis.
Would a 0.9 stepper be better than a 1.8 for accuracy in z probing.
Would the changing from 128 to 16 microstepping be any easier for bed levelling or have any impact on bed levelling i.e. G29.How often do I need to redo the heightmap. would this change according to the different temps being used i.e. 55(PLA), PETG(90/100), ABS (100/110). Or can i use one height map for any temps.
I think for now in relation to my other post I am likely to use basic painters tape with ABS juice, as I have seen a youtube video that shows it being effective for pla/abs/petg... whos to complain.
also what version of bed leveling is used in Duet, in Marlin the most popular bed leveling is Bi-Linear, which doesn't involve having to sync the z motors/ or in need of slowing the z speeds.
can the coupler affect the z axis in terms of bed levelling
and would there be any difference in the 16th vs 128th microstepping quality...
So in all... bed leveling LOL
when viewing the heightmap when i see red do i need to loosen or titan the set screw, and how about when I see blue do i tighten or loosen the screws.Please Help...
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@npm1 said in questions on z axis on a prusa style 3d printer:
Just been thinking on squeezing extra accuracy into the bed leveling on my printer.
Currently using a chinese 12mm inductive sensor, need to test repeatability, may switch this out for either BLtouch(traiangle labs)/Omron Cube proximity sensor(WN for ALIexpress).have a look at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3303618
I've already turned up the current to 870 and have also slowed down the 201/3 of the z axis.
Would a 0.9 stepper be better than a 1.8 for accuracy in z probing.
Would the changing from 128 to 16 microstepping be any easier for bed levelling or have any impact on bed levelling i.e. G29.Test your current repeatability by creating the m48 macro. see
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/G-Codes_not_implementedHow often do I need to redo the heightmap. would this change according to the different temps being used i.e. 55(PLA), PETG(90/100), ABS (100/110). Or can i use one height map for any temps.
It depends on your heated bed. a lot of the beds in i3 style printers do. so to get the best result do a leveling before each print.
I think for now in relation to my other post I am likely to use basic painters tape with ABS juice, as I have seen a youtube video that shows it being effective for pla/abs/petg... whos to complain.
have you tried something like buildtak or something similar.
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For any one that having the same issues, bringing z motors microstepping down from 128-16 has worked well in terms of an even first layer, so far any... so essentially the squeesh looks very even...
Haven't gotten round to the other stuff in this post yet...
and am still looking for a response on the change in stepper motor etc...Kind Regards
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Most non-delta printers have a high enough steps/mm that using a 0.9deg motor won't help, because non-deltas generally use either leadscrew or geared belt drive. Whereas deltas generally use direct belt drive, so using 0.9deg motors do make a difference.
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I think for now in relation to my other post I am likely to use basic painters tape with ABS juice, as I have seen a youtube video that shows it being effective for pla/abs/petg... whos to complain.
In fact after having an even better squish on a buildtak like surface, the print is sticking to well
when viewing the heightmap when i see red do i need to loosen or titan the set screw, and how about when I see blue do i tighten or loosen the screws.
Manage to sort out the height map and make it as even as possible please look and judge my handy work.
