T3P3 Kossel Mini R3 Wiring harness
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Me and Doug have both used 24awg cat 5e cable, we have double wired the cable to run the heater and it works perfect, only have 2 cables and the drive tube connected now and it's perfect
Hi, so you used the Cat5e cable for the heater also. Are you running 24v heaters?
I'm running 12v heater cartridge and so were talking 3-4 amps rather than 1-2amps. I wasn't too comfortable with 3-4 amps through two 24awg cables.
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Me and Doug have both used 24awg cat 5e cable, we have double wired the cable to run the heater and it works perfect, only have 2 cables and the drive tube connected now and it's perfect
And what about crimping two wires in one Microfit pin? Does it fit well?
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@DjDemonD yes both rommie and myself use 24V heaters so well within the doubled up 24AWG Wiring
@Zov yes they fit quite easily as long as you twist them well there should be no issues.Doug
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So - how much will the Smart Extruder decrease the 170mm diameter of the Kossel Mini compared to the T3P3 extruder?
Thanks,
John
I have not tested it exactly (things like fan overhangs have an impact) but the rod spacing is 10mm wider so estimating 10mm less in radius, 20mm in diameter.
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Tony does the effector really get that close to the towers on a R3 I've never seen one so don't know but guess it would also need a new carriage design for it as well?
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The build area is setup by default to give a small amount of clearance., a larger effector would certainly require a slightly smaller build diameter, maybe not as much as 20mm (if the clearance is reduced). The R3 uses trucks that run on the 20x20 extrusion using delrin wheels. They are attached to the belt/arm carriages using the same bolt spacing as standard rails (20x20) so the PCB carriage adapter should fit in there fine. A slightly modified carriage with no mounts for traxas arms, 2mm thinner to make up for the carriage adaptor would be good.
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another option may be to replace all the horizontal extrusions by some that are slightly longer and that should cost to much but it is a shame
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yes rebuilding the printer bigger is always an option…
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Could probably get away with what DC42 did when he went to 4020 and just print some 2020 extensions.
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I rebuilt my original R1 Mini Kossel for a 300mm printable diameter by using longer horizontal extrusions and longer arms. I figured that I could live with the reduction in build height to about 90mm, and for a while I did.
If all you want to do is get back the lost build area after switching to the smart effector, you could increase the lengths of the arms and horizontal extrusions by a much smaller amount, and lose much less build height.
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So - how much will the Smart Extruder decrease the 170mm diameter of the Kossel Mini compared to the T3P3 extruder?
Thanks,
John
I have not tested it exactly (things like fan overhangs have an impact) but the rod spacing is 10mm wider so estimating 10mm less in radius, 20mm in diameter.
Thanks for the info!
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What would be the optimal cable to use to make a wiring harness?
I think I'll try to make it myself
-Jannis
