24 volt 40w hotend wiring?

[deckingman]

@damaged_goods The information is all in the documentation that @Arnold_R_Clark linked to. It is specifically stated that OUT0 is intended for bed heaters with a current of up to 18A. The documentarian also says that OUT1 to 3 are intended for extruders heaters and have a current limit of 6A. Your 40 Watt heater will only draw 1.7 Amps so use any of OUT1 to OUT3 (as per the documentation).

[damaged_goods]

@arnold_r_clark thanks for the advice. Since I had no electronics knowledge 2 years ago and have since built a functioning 5 foot x 5 foot x 7 foot multimaterial printer, I would say I have educated myself plenty.
I have read all those documents but was looking for some friendly help.

[damaged_goods]

@deckingman Thank you sir. I read all those documents but it was often all Greek to me. My aged brain has limited comprehension for new information these days.
My understanding is that a rated 24/40 heater cartridge will not work optimally on the 12 volt outputs 1-3. Is there a 24 volt output I can use or am I wrong?
I'm just trying to not burn the house down some days
Thanks again,
Dave

[Rushmere3D]

@damaged_goods OUT 1-3 are VIN powered, I would assume you purchased a 24v heater because you use 24v as the input voltage?

[damaged_goods]

@rushmere3d That is correct and my heater seemed to be struggling at higher temperatures. Are out1-3 12 volt or 24? VIN is voltage in from the power supply correct? Sorry for my ignorance, I didn't want to damage the board.

[Rushmere3D]

@damaged_goods out 1-3 are the same voltage as your input voltage.

What temperature are you trying to reach?

What hardware are you using exactly?

[damaged_goods]

@rushmere3d duet 3 mainboard, with Prusa hot end but I may upgrade. I am hoping to have a print temp range up to 300-350. Mostly just in case.

[Rushmere3D]

@damaged_goods By Prusa hotend do you mean an E3D V6? If so you can't print over 300°c, 280°c to be honest with a stock one. You'd need to upgrade some of the components.

[damaged_goods]

@rushmere3d that is my plan.

[damaged_goods]

@rushmere3d mosquito magnum +?

[Rushmere3D]

@damaged_goods No experience with that, sorry.

[deckingman]

@damaged_goods said in 24 volt 40w hotend wiring?:

@rushmere3d mosquito magnum +?

If you are happy with the V6 but it's struggling to reach the temperature you want, then a 60 watt heater might be a cheaper option than buying a whole new hot end. A 60 watt heater at 24V will still only draw 2.5 amps so well within the 6 amp spec of Out 1 to 3. Alternatively have you tried fitting a silicone sock?

[Rushmere3D]

@deckingman But they'll still need to change at least the block and thermistor because there max temp is 300°c.

[deckingman]

@rushmere3d said in 24 volt 40w hotend wiring?:

@deckingman But they'll still need to change at least the block and thermistor because there max temp is 300°c.

Really? What's the block made out of - lead or a tin/lead alloy?

I'm using humble aluminium on my 6 input multi material hot end because I know the melting point of aluminium is around 660 deg C.

[damaged_goods]

@deckingman Thank you gentleman. I did just try a sock and that does help. I also built a styrofoam aluminum foil enclosure. That along with a 240 volt 2160 watt bed heater gives me a pretty stable print environment. I will upgrade the hotend when this one gives up the ghost.

[damaged_goods]

@rushmere3d Thank you gentleman. I did just try a sock and that does help. I also built a styrofoam aluminum foil enclosure. That along with a 240 volt 2160 watt bed heater gives me a pretty stable print environment. I will upgrade the hotend when this one gives up the ghost.

[Rushmere3D]

@deckingman Just giving the same warning as E3D do on their own products.

[Stephen6309]

@rushmere3d The limit is because of the supplied thermister.