Anycubic Delta (Trigorilla vs Duet Wifi) Wiring and configuration
Take a look at these two wiring diagrams. One is of a trigorilla board and the other is the duetwifi board.
Duet Wifi or Duet Ethernet
I will be adding the duet wifi and paneldue with 5inch LCD touchscreen to an anycubic kossel delta printer when duet wifi and panel due arrive in the mail.. Reason for upgrade because the old trigorilla board has had a D.C. Power failure and they aren't making it anymore so I cannot simply switch them out. The trigorilla board is almost salvageable since I can get it to run on usb power but it won't run stepper motors and extruder thermistor for instance. And I mean I'd have to change out parts on the board itself and if I'm lucky get it back running. However in two weeks I'll be featuring this printer in an advanced art collage class and unfortunately I don't have time to mess with it in hopes to get it back up. So I'm trading my unlucky situation for a learning experience with duet wifi.
And looking at shipment times it seems I'll have to get this up and running within about a week.
So I am wondering for now, am I right about the duetwifi board not needing the 12v power supply connected the same way for the heated bed?
The trigorilla board had the 11A terminals for heated bed coming from power supply and then sent boards adjusted power to heatbed with another set of terminals to heated bed I believe. Looking at this duetwifi board looks like I would hook my 12v power supply up to its power terminals (powering up everything with one set of terminals) and just simply plug my heated bed into the 18A terminals?
Another question is it seems my heated bed performed better getting to 100 degrees for ABS when I turned my adjustment screw on the power supply all the way up. And I mean that was the only way it would reach 100 degrees otherwise it would stop at around 75 degrees. Ok so since the power supply would also be powering up everything else would the adjustment on power supply damage anything like the wifi duet board? I'd hate to have another paper weight.
Here is the 3d printer I'm using except when i bought it it was 50 dollars more and didn't come with power supply and heated bed
Anycubic Linear Version Unassemble Delta Rostock 3D Printer Kit Large Print Size with Heatbed and Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019VSIANU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gmq5zbDE7V1R7
And this would be the power supply I'm using
BMOUO 12V 30A DC Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360W
This would be the heatbed I'm using:
RepRap Champion 3D Printer Kossel Round Heated Bed MK2Y PCB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016CIRVPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sGq5zb96W62M2
Thanks everyone! I will have more questions I'm sure.
Turning the power supply up is fine, so long as it does not go above 24V which I doubt will happen with that supply. I have a 24V supply that is similar and I get about +/-4V from the center.
Be aware that by turning the supply up, your heater cartridge on the hotend and fans will also be running at a higher voltage. Standard 12V cartridges, esp the 40W will be able to get even hotter at 15V.
While you are waiting for delivery it's worth.making yourself familiar with the configuration (see the wiki, esp setting up a delta printer and the gcodes page).
I have been reading the wiki for a bit. My initial desire was to use an old kindle fire for display but since I'm taking this away from my house I thought I'd use the paneldue which has the SD card option I think so I can just add gcode files to print on the fly in case the web interface can't be used due to their wifi setup. Also it's nice to have a dedicated LCD for it anyways. I think the only thing I may not have time for is making mounts for all of this. I'll do a temporary mount on wood to get by. I think the only slow down for me would be the anycubic came preprogrammed with rod length and extruder type for example. This time I'll have to input it all I believe. I don't have an autobed level so it will all be manual calibration.
In firmware 1.19 the auto calibration in the Duet firmware can be used without a Z probe, but you need to use the web interface for that because PanelDue firmware doesn't yet have the necessary support. You set up auto calibration as normal (see https://duet3d.com/wiki/Calibrating_a_delta_printer) but use P0 in the M558 command in config.g to say that you have no Z probe. At each probe point, the web interface will present some buttons for you to jog the nozzle down until it just touches the bed, then you press OK.
Hello dc42 and thanks,
Is this the link you wanted me to see. That link was broken.
I also found this.
And it looks like if I really wanted to I could use this wizard.
I did not realize that the web interface could do that though. It would speed things up for sure. That's a bummer about the PanelDue not being able to. I mean one day i'll add the auto z probe, but sounds like an important update to have just incase something happens to the zprobe and you aren't around your wifi for calibration.
Before on my old setup I would use something like pronterface and have it stop right before the bed and click it down myself then have to remember the amount it needed in difference. Then go back to the arduino configuration.h file and make the change. Back and forth back and forth. So that helps a lot.
You know I had also added bed level screws and springs so I could help it quicker manually a long time ago. I guess those may still be useful. On a fresh install I always had to keep in mind mostly in their arduino software configuration.h file they called it Delta_Diagonal_Rod to change it for (Size of model vs it's size in model. You know for example your 10mmx10mmx10mm box comes out an actual 10mmx10mmx10mm box) to get it to be equal and the Delta_Smooth_Rod_Offset(concave vs convex) so that your outer most print height is the same as your center print height. I am not sure how that relates to the DuetWifi board yet. So your saying it will figure all that out with concave and convex?
Well I see that all my changes will be easy and quicker to make with the web interface and the paneldue. Even if I have to pull that micro sd card out and load it into my computer or use an USB cord and make changes it still seems faster than before….
Is it possible to use the web interface without wifi or internet? Like connecting it to printer directly and pulling up that page? That way if I don't have wifi connection so I would still be able to autocalibrate it without having a zprobe.
Yes that's the page, I put the closing bracket in the wrong place when composing the message.
I will update PanelDue firmware to support manual probing soon.
If your delta geometry is accurate, you should just be able to put the measured diagonal rod length into the configuration command. If necessary, small adjustments to the scaling can be done using the M579 command, see https://duet3d.com/wiki/G-code#M579:_Scale_Cartesian_axes.
You don't need to pull the SD card out because you can edit the configuration files in the web interface. You don't need an Internet connection to use the WiFi interface, but currently you to need to establish connections from both the Duet WiFi and your PC/tablet/smartphone to a wireless access point.
Thanks again dc42,
I am thinking ahead when I am at that college and need to make a change or adjustment. Hopefully It will not be needed. Moving the printer might make it change somehow. They are supposed to have wifi and maybe this will be beside the point but just in case I don't have the opportunity for wifi use and i'd have to somehow adjust the settings. I would hope I could change it with no wifi. I do appreciate your time.
On a slightly related note. If I do not have a wifi connection. I'm starting to think I can use my phone as a hotspot and put my laptop and 3d printer on my phones wifi because they would be on the same wifi connection it may work. I could actually be anywhere and use my laptop to edit the files the same way without additional wires.
Makes me think though of wifi direct or bluetooth connections on duet now. That way my cell could connect to printer directly and maybe it would use an app on the phone to make changes eliminating the use for a laptop. Well removing all the setup processes for a new wifi connection. I know I can use my cell now using a browser and wifi connection but I was thinking in terms of using my cell and being away from both a laptop and wifi routers. I am sure one day you guys will add all the bells and whistles. You would have to get into app development for both apple and andriod. For now I think I will love what I got. It's an upgrade for sure like it is..
Yes you can use your smartphone as a hotspot to connect your PC and Duet together. I hope to get the Duet working in access point mode eventually.
Using the wiring diagram above for DuetWifi
Got my board in and I just noticed that the stepper motors have got the right colors on wires but I need to rearrange the red and blue. However so now I am wondering what is truly needed in arrangement because it's a color of a wire not the purpose of the wire. My motor model number is 42HD4027-01
I'll keep researching just thought this would speed me up asking.
Looks like the only other thing is the end stops I have are two wires red and black and your board has three wire input gray yellow and black. Would Black be Black and Red be Yellow? I am not sure what the gray would be for if so. Unless it's (black and black) and (red and gray) I should use? I see that black is ground and gray is I/O and Yellow is 3.3 volts.. I am not sure why it's throwing me off at the moment between gray and yellow though..
Everything else would just be me changing out most of the connectors to work on the board I think.
Looks like all only my temp sensors wont have to change to new connectors
I found the motor schematic but haven't been able to relate this to the board. Because they talk about A, B, C, D connections vs A1,B1,A2,B2
I read this but I haven't connected the dots yet…
I found this picture would you agree with the comparison? I really do not want to mess up the stepper motors I have.
2B = D
2A = C
1A = A
1B = B
What do you think?
If you know which order the wires were plugged into the Trigorilla board, the same order should work with the Duet. Otherwise, do the following:
1. With the stepper motor not connected to anything, spin the shaft with your fingers to see how easy it is to turn. Now short 2 wires together and try to spin the shaft again. If it is much harder to spin, those 2 wires are one phase, and the other 2 wires are the other phase. Typically red and blue are one phase, and green and black are the other.
2. Connect the wires of one phase to the 2 pins at one end of the 4-pin Duet motor connector , and the wires of the other phase to the 2 pins at the other end.
Any thoughts on the end stops wiring?
Positive (RED) to your board YELLOW 3.3 Volts?
Negative (Black) to your board (Black) ground?
If the endstop switches have only 2 wires, they are simple microswitches, and the wires should be connected to the two outer pins of the 3-pin connector - it doesn't matter which way round.
Thanks again, Gotcha so on your board outer pins Black (GND) and Gray (I/O) then?
Yes, leaving the 3V3 pin unconnected.
I was using https://configurator.reprapfirmware.org/ and the z-probe code in config.g file isn't there anymore??
Also not sure what Firmware compatibility: should be used. Maybe I need to reinstall factory and edit manually? It was telling me not to use the file it was for testing only and to come to the above URL.
Oh just saw it wasn't listed under zprobe like before but up higher in the file as
M574 X2 Y2 Z2 S1 ; Define active high microswitches
((((((((M558 P1 X0 Y0 Z0 H10 F120 T2400 ; Set Z probe type to unmodulated, the axes for which it is used and the probe + travel speeds)))))))
G31 P500 X11 Y0 Z2 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 R85 S20 ; Define mesh grid
Gone2Far last edited by
Sorry I missed this thread until now. I just upgraded my Anycubic Kossel to Duet electronics a few weeks ago. I also moved to the smart effector/magball/E3D hotend–sounds like you're still using the Anycubic effector? If so, I really recommend replacing the 40mm radial part cooling fan with a 50x15mm radial. Adapters are on thingiverse.
Stepper wire pairs are colored just as dc42 describes. red/blue and green/black.
The 20A power supply Anycubic provided with my kit was insufficient, and I had to move to a 30A meanwell. Seems you're set there.
With the higher print speed that the duet allows, the Anycubic extruder is not strong enough, I find. Trying out different variations on geared extruders, Much improvement, but haven't found a solution I'm entirely happy with.
rot last edited by
Hi. I did the same.
Changed from Trigorilla to Duet Wifi one week ago.
Actually i am struggling to get the right settings.
Can you post your configuration for acceleration, speed change…
The HW connection was not a problem...
Thanks Gone2Far do you have some links for smart effector/magball/E3D hotend and whatever else you have come up with? My extruder motor type is the same as the XYZ steppers. I was thinking the extruder was a little over sized on the motor. Although they did package different stuff as the years went by on this anycubic so you might have had a different one on your extruder?
Yeah I feel the same ROT I'd like to know more about the motor settings too. So far I know mine is 1.8 degree and it's a 1500ma motor but I am not sure about microstepping settings. I see that 256 is really quiet but x8 256 interpolated is noisier for example. Looks like you can choose calculate steps per mm if you know your microstepping then you need to know your belt type, tooth pitch and pully teeth count. Mine is set at GT2 2mm belt, 2mm pitch and pully is 20 tooth. I think thats right for this delta. Microstepping, Max. instantaneous speed change, Maximum speed, and Acceleration I need to know.
What I am focused on at the moment is when I do the manual calibration and the screen pops up on the web interface to jog down. It doesn't jog down but sideways. It homes ok, and when I hit the buttons to move the thing around on normal control screen it does what I want it to. The menu from auto calibration is asking me about x jogging down rather than Z. So I have no idea the only other thing I can think of is my towers are in a different order in the software vs the actual. Mine are XYZ going counter clock wise. What do you guys got yours doing?
I suggest x16 microstepping with interpolation which is the default. The interpolation to x256 only works if you select x16 microstepping. Your steps/mm with that motor, belt and pulley with then be 80. For speed I suggest 12000 and for acceleration 3000. For jerk, try 600.
If the head is jogging sideways, that could mean that the version of Duet Web Control you are using is too old for the main firmware version. Try firmware 1.19.2 and Duet Web Control 1.19 or 1.19.3.
dc42 by jerk do you mean Max. instantaneous speed change? Would the extruder have the same settings? I have the same motor for it as the tower motors.
Looks like upgrading firmware to 1.19.2 did the trick. I thought I was upgrading web interface too but it says 1.19 still. So maybe 1.19.3 web interface is part of your beta or alpha? Anyway thanks this is moving me right along
Gone2Far last edited by
My steppers are the same for XYZ, and slightly longer for extruder. I think they're rated 1.5/1.7A respectively. I have 1000ma/1200ma set in config.g. Order is also counter-clockwise, X to the left of "front", Y right and Z back. Using the default x16 interpolated and it works great.
The smart effector is one of the main reasons I switched to Duet electronics. The built-in probe works well. In combo with the Duet WiFi, bed leveling issues are a thing of the past. With the 40mm axial fan dc42 suggests, part cooling is marginal for PLA. Dc42, you must print in ABS a lot, I think. I tried first a Noctua and then a high-CFM 40mm fan; now I've got an adapter and a 50x15 radial fan sticking out the front, but that (hopefully) isn't permanent. Link to the smart effector is on the products page of this website (Duet3D). I bought mine from Filastruder here in the US. Magballs and 288mm arms I got from Ultibots. 288mm is a bit long, but works well. Original arms for the linear plus were 265mm. It's nice to be able to pop the effector loose to clean up the hotend as needed and then just snap it back on. Much less play than the stock arms as well.
Yeah this thing has trouble with ABS. Gone2Far You say the smart effector comes with a probe? Can I see a picture of it being used on yours. Looks like that smart effector would change the distance of the rod spacing vs the top of rod connected to tower. I'll check into that at some point. Even the bed I got can't seem to hack 90 degrees very well. its 12v. What is your extruder setting? I had asked above about it being the same as towers. I felt like it didn't sound right. Maybe there is a percentage to go by on extruders vs towers?
After I auto calibrate it will not save it and everytime I turn this on I have to recalibrate. How do I get it to save auto calibration?