Problems with Duet 3 Mini 5+ WiFi
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@phaedrux The extruder seems to work perfectly (LGX). The max current on the sheet says 0.65 a. I hope the whole build doesn't go like this.
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@unforgivenll the extruder is on the tool board (If that's means anything.)
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@unforgivenll said in Problems with Duet 3 Mini 5+ WiFi:
The max current on the sheet says 0.65 a
That's the Moons motor whose data sheet you posted earlier?
If they are max 650ma and you have the current set to 650ma in M906 you're giving them 100% power. An easy way to test finding the right current is to add an M913 command after your M906. M913 is used to alter the motor current by a percentage. For example:
M906 X650 Y650 Z650 M913 X60 Y60 Z60Would reduce the current to 60% of the rated max, which is a good value to start with.
Do you have other motors to test with or are they all the same?
Have you tried the extruder motor on the main board? What max current does it take?
When you change motors make sure you're also updating the config to match the settings they need. In this case the extruder motor seems to work and will take 650ma so you should be safe to try it on X and Y. Just make sure to power off before unplugging.
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@phaedrux The extruder is mounted and wired already. I bought 4 Moons motors as I plan to have dual Z, one on EO on the mainboard (A problem I'll have in the future I'm sure.). So 390ma for the motors? That's not too low?
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@unforgivenll The Extruder is a different (LDO) motor and wired differently.
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@unforgivenll said in Problems with Duet 3 Mini 5+ WiFi:
So 390ma for the motors? That's not too low?
Test it and find out.
650ma seems very low to begin with. How did you determine these motors were suitable in the first place? The rated inductance values from that sheet is very high. 15mH It's not recommended to use motors with an inductance above 4mH
https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Motors_choosing
I think the phase errors are due to back EMF already exceeding the supply voltage even at low homing speeds.
Can you try this command?
G1 H2 X10 F600
That is a much slower move than the default F6000 and it may be able to complete it.
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@phaedrux They were recommended for my original printer. I basically rebuilt my Tevo Tornado. There isn't anything original left on it except the extrusion.
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@unforgivenll Tried the new settings and the same thing happens. The motor just whines.
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What voltage is your power supply?
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Did you try that lower speed command?
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@phaedrux I did try that and it didn't work. I tried my old Tevo motor at 850ma. It worked fine. The $200 worth of Moons motors are literally days old. I did see a discussion somewhere where they might have an incompatibility with the steppers. I think it was Stealth Chop in particular. I have no idea how to test that. I'm not an expert by any means but I generally make my way through electronics projects just fine. This is maybe the 3rd or fourth time asking for help ever. I'm just not having much positive movement with this Duet build. I'm not blaming anything, or anyone. It's probably my fault. Just putting it out there.
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I believe they should be in spread cycle by default instead of stealthchop but we can force it by adding
D2to the M569 command for X Y Z.M569 P0.0 S1 ; physical drive 0.0 goes forwards M569 P0.1 S1 ; physical drive 0.1 goes forwards M569 P0.2 S1 ; physical drive 0.2 goes forwardsAdd the D2 after the S1
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@phaedrux Unfortunately it didn't change anything.
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@phaedrux I'm going to use my old motors for the time being. They are working just fine. I have X and Y wired up without any issues. If you don't mind, could you help me with the dual z? I want to add the second motor to E0. I read the documentation a few times and I'm not sure if I'm understanding it correctly. My full build area is 310x370.
Again, I really appreciate your help. Thank you very much.
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Yeah those Moons motors just aren't the right specs for a 3d printer. Inductance is too high. Not sure what else to say about that.
To add a second driver to the Z axis you need to tell it that the Z axis has 2 drivers. This is done in the M584 command where the drivers are mapped to the axis.
The mini 5 doesn't have a driver labeled as E0 as far as I'm aware, so assuming you mean driver 3 on the mainboard.
M584 X0.0 Y0.1 Z0.2 E121.0
Would become
M584 X0.0 Y0.1 Z0.2:0.3 E121.0Now when a G1 Z command is sent, both Z motors will act as one.
Now that you have dual z axis you can do fancier things like this: https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Z_probe_auto_levelling
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@phaedrux Thank you. I don't know why I thought it was labeled EO. When looking at the samples on the page you linked I'm not sure how that gets setup. I'm sorry I guess I'm a little slow here.
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You mean the auto leveling? Did you see the examples?
https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Z_probe_auto_levelling#examples
You tell the firmware which drivers are in each axis.
You tell the firmware where your lead screws approximately are.
Then you setup bed.g to probe near those lead screws and it makes the correction. -
@phaedrux I'm not understanding exactly how to figure out the variables given the example. G208 and G30 especially. I see the explanation and it makes sense, but looking at the measurements on G30 don't make any sense to me.
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@unforgivenll said in Problems with Duet 3 Mini 5+ WiFi:
@phaedrux I'm not understanding exactly how to figure out the variables given the example. G208 and G30 especially. I see the explanation and it makes sense, but looking at the measurements on G30 don't make any sense to me.
Could you elaborate a bit on what it is you don't understand?
Frederick
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Well your M208 is already set for your bedsize, so that doesn't change.
The points for the G30 in bed.g are going to depend on where your leadscrews are. If it's a cartesian it's going to be a point on the left and right side of the bed where the probe can reach.
