@jay_s_uk said in 12864 Display Unresponsive on Preheat Page 3.3b2:

@leckietech Theres a dropdown menu top left in system to switch to the menu/display files

Ah, got it. Thanks, heres a photo for anyone stuck in the future:

@dc42 YES! M150 finally controls some 2811 LEDs on my Wifi2! Thank you for this!

@bearer I'm confident a static discharge strap would have saved the board in a passive operation as routine as swapping out a bowden tube. But now that I've been here, I will certainly take more care next time and clip a ground cable to my cutters or make sure there is no place for the discharge to arc to. Live and learn!

@jadonm did you ever figure it out? Ive got 2 machines on my bench testing the Fysetc 12864 display and Im seeing this issue only within the preheat menu. The text file looks ok and nothing seems out of the ordinary. its doing it on a duet3 mini and a duet 2. Both have the same symptom that can be cleared by resetting the board. Ill probably go in and delete one function at a time to see what is triggering this to happen.

I print tonnes of PETG and something that I realized the hard way early on is like pla and abs, not all petg's are made equally. Some print super nice with basic settings and some need excessive work in my experience. But in all cases, I've never had peeling problems printing on glass or aluminum beds with a piece of Kapton tape. You can usually get pretty high mileage out of it too if you get a quality tape. I definitely do not recommend printing directly on glass. Youll have lifting.. more lifting and all of a sudden like DC42 says, its sticks and sticks too well. I've taken chunks out of glass beds! Youll need to remove it by heating your bed to something high like 115c and destroy your part to get it off the bed without chipping the glass.

And for warping, I don't get any of that printing inside a fully enclosed build chamber where the ambient temp is around 45 with a 85c bed temp.

@jens55 said in Z Babystepping:

@phcella, the nozzle can not go below the point you designated as your minimum Z position. Usually that is z=zero. If the nozzle is a bit high though and Z is already set to zero then it can't go lower.
In my config.sys:

; Axis Limits
M208 X-10 Y0 Z-0.5 S1 ; Set axis minima
M208 X530 Y495 Z480 S0 ; Set axis maxima

Note that I allow z to go to -0.5 which allows me to step a bit lower.

^ This is what I do too. Another option you can do while a print is running is to enter M564 S0 in the console before you try to set your baby steps below zero. Record your final baby step value when your first layer is looking good and then add that to your Probe's Z offset so your future prints don't need adjustment.

@dc42 Thank you, this works now!

@dc42 I decided to enter the options one by one into the console and Im getting this error:

@dc42 yes, I have included M150 X1 Q3000000 in my config file.

Im working on a script for loading filament and trying to see if I can integrate the Fysetc display encoder wheel. Once the filament has been moved a set amount to get it a few mm from the extruder, I want to use the encoder wheel to forward the filament step by step; as the wheel is being turned it should move the filament - similar to how the alter command functions with movement on XYZUW axis with this menu button function:

@dc42 This makes perfect sense! Thanks for the suggestion, it sounds like the perfect simple solution. Im using cherry SPDT micro switches so that will be very easy to rewire

@dc42 It might be worth mentioning that M150 R255 actually controls the Green LED string on the Duet2 and U255 controls RED. B255 is still functioning Blue.

@dc42 I have the Fysetc 12864 connected to the Mini5. I can see the RGB drivers Fysetc is using is the WS2811 and they have used 3 of them. If I send lets say M150 R255, nothing happens on the Duet3 Mini, but running the same config file on the Duet 2 and the 2811's work fine. Running RRF 3.3B3 on both boards.

Trying to configure our first Mini5 board coming from a Duet2 wifi with the fysetc 12864 screen connected. The onboard 2811 leds work flawlessly with RRF 3.3b3 on wifi2 but I cant seem to get the 2811 leds to work with Mini5. Im using the parallel ribbon cable to connect the fysetc on the Mini5. I believe EXP.1 "io3.out" is what is driving the 2811 data pin. Maybe the output is not assigned?

@phaedrux I tried twisting and thought it solved it, but nope. Its doing it on my Z now. Twisted all the pairs of limit switches. I added a 10k resistor from the 3.3v to the trigger input and put a 0.1uf ceramic cap between ground and trigger. That solved it but I dont understand, Ive NEVER had to do that before. especially with a $200 (canadian) board.