So it turns out my bed is indeed a 24v - I went ahead and converted an old xbox PSU to a 12v supply and hooked it up. Everything is now functioning properly with the inconvenience of my bed heating rather slowly. It still reaches and maintains 60-70C which is plenty considering I almost exclusively print with PETG. The trade-off of the noise from my 24v to the complete silence of my 12v is worth it alone IMHO. I may look at replacing my bed later on down the line, but foresee this being suitable for the near future. Thanks to everyone for your help, greatly appreciated.
Best posts made by PixelGl1tch
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RE: Duet 2 Wifi with SE300
Latest posts made by PixelGl1tch
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RE: G28 only Homes Z axis
@dc42 @DocTrucker Thanks guys, I appreciate the insights provided. I will move this to a more relevant forum if I can't get it figured out.
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RE: G28 only Homes Z axis
@DocTrucker Appreciate the replies, but THIS board is not a duet. Also already checked endstop status and verified correct functionality with M119. Regardless, I can jog x and y in one direction only and back to "home" (being where they started when the machine powered up) and all endstops still remain un-triggered (low), whether manual or done VIA console.
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RE: G28 only Homes Z axis
Even if I call Homex or Homey, they do not move... at all. Homez on the other hand, will home just fine.
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G28 only Homes Z axis
I installed a duet wifi on my primary printer, which freed up a logic board for me to bring an old printer back to life. I've got all of the wiring done and am now onto the firmware+ portion of the project... and have run into a snag, to which I am out of ideas for.
G28 only homes the z axis, doesn't even try for x and y. It is set to do x, y, then z per my firmware config. None of the endstops are tripped, and I have verified proper functionality with M119 to ensure they're High and Low as expected. It's almost like both the x and y axis are triggered by default, but they both come back with low on an M119... any thoughts as to what might be the issue here?
Printer:
Cartesian (DaVinci 1.0)
Repetier 1.0.3
Azteeg x3 pro board -
RE: 1/4" Plexiglass Carriage Plate?
Exactly why I asked, appreciate your response and agree whole heartedly that I definitely will not want to re-do it, I'll scratch the plexi idea.
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RE: 1/4" Plexiglass Carriage Plate?
Was going to do something similar to this build, except the bottom plate would be acrylic.
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/17680/davinci-10a-bed-replacment/
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RE: 1/4" Plexiglass Carriage Plate?
Mostly because I have a laser cutter and 3/8" acrylic sitting right next to my 3d printer, and would be rather easy/convenient for me to do myself if it is a sustainable solution.
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RE: 1/4" Plexiglass Carriage Plate?
Sorry, its an aluminium plate with a heater attached. This is the one I currently have in mind...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071V7DVGB/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?smid=A36KNDPALTN82Y&psc=1
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RE: G92 Z0 doesn't save Z position
Ahh, good callout, fortunately just a typo on my part here and not anywhere else so far...
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1/4" Plexiglass Carriage Plate?
Hey all, I am in the process of upgrading my old DaVinci 1.0 printer from back in the day which will include replacing the heated bed with a better/larger bed. In order to do so, I will need to laser a custom carriage plate to house the new bed. My question is, can I use 1/4" plexiglass as material for said carriage plate? I would think that with proper insulation between the heated bed and the carriage plate I should be fine and free from any warp concern, but wanted to get popular opinion before I wasted any time on design. For clarification, my intention would be to do it like this from top down:
Glass
Heated bed
3mm cork board
1/4" Plexi Carriage Plate (maybe even 3/8")Appreciate your thoughts!