@the_dragonlord I've reinstalled it and now it works like a charm, sorry guys!

@resam said in Timelapses, are they possible?:

--run-ffmpeg

IT WWWWWWOOOOORRRRKKKKKKSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!! Great jon my friend, great job!!! Thanks a lot for everything!!!

ok, it works with the example print but not with mine....I've inserted the GCODE in the layer change but it doesn't take the pictures...tha GCODE works because when the layer changes I see the nozzle stopping for a while....I'm using Ideamaker as slicer....any idea?
EDIT:
It started to wokr after about 6-7 layers....they are not so small layers, it take about 30-40 secs each to complete

@Phaedrux said in Electronics cooling fan on RRF3:

You must understand that the PWM used by the duet isn't the same as the 4 wire PWM fan would use normally. The duet is just switching the negative side at a frequency to approximate PWM. (Though you can actually wire up a 4 wire PWM capable fan and use it as intended as well). This method is rather effective most of the time but not all fans work well with it. I'm suggesting that the 4 wire fans probably would take to it just fine.

I've changed the fans and now it works like a charm!

Thanks!

@fcwilt said in The rotating magnet filament monitor is out of stock eveywhere:

@the_dragonlord said in The rotating magnet filament monitor is out of stock eveywhere:

would it be possible to use a switch as a filament sensor?

Yes but it only tells you if the filament has broken or run out.

The failure of filament to feed is of importance and thus the existence of sensors like the laser and rotating magnet designs.

But I imagine you already know all that.

Frederick

sure, infact I'll use a simple switch only for the time needed for the magnet sensor to be available again

@Sindarius said in 3D GCode Viewer integrated with DWC:

@the_dragonlord https://github.com/Sindarius/DWC_GCodeViewer_Plugin/releases/tag/0.9.3

sooooooooooooooooooooooooo much better! It works like a charm now!

@jps0284 said in Control the E3D Water Cooling System via a FAN Port:

My previous setup was comparable to what your describing but used a 360 radiator (3x120mm 12v fans) running thermostatically off Tool 0 linked to the PWM 12/24 pins of my duex5. The pump (24v) was also thermostatically controlled running off Fan2 of the duet linked to Tool0. That configuration caused a few issues, one being I kept forgetting to enable part cooling in the slicer settings and the other was with varying the frequency of the pump. Since I'm typically printing high temp filaments (nylon, pc, pei) I ended up just moving the pump to run off Fan0 (continuous 24v). I'd recommend adding a water flow hall sensor off an endstop to trigger a fault halting the printer. If I'm remembering correctly the e3d cooler is a 80mm radiator setup, which isn't bad if your only interested in cooling the hot end but for nearly the same price you can piecemeal a better setup off amazon. I picked up a 360 cooler for >40$, 24v pump 25-ish, 40mm waterblocks 2 for 10 bucks. IMO from experience, your better off sourcing out individual components rather than some integrated system for future expansion possibilities. I've since replaced my 360 cooler with a homemade chiller setup, went from a 90 100F return temp to a consistent 60F. My steppers are much happier now.

Thanks but I've already ordered the E3D kit. Could you please give me an example for the hall sensor you mentioned? I'm not an expert so I don't know those devices...I've searched in Google and I found plenty models but I don't know what are best to use for this purpose and that can be coupled with the Duet....thanks

@dc42 said in Control the E3D Water Cooling System via a FAN Port:

@the_dragonlord, 1.0A or even a little more continuous is OK; but the real problem is the current surge when the pump is turned on, which is likely to exceed the 3.5A peak rating of the fan mosfet.

Do you have a spare heater output on the Duet?

Hi, yes, I haven't got an expansion board but I have free heater pins, how can I set one of them to drive the cooling system in place of the cooling fan driven by the temperature? I don't know if the pump can be driven via PWM but I don't think so so ON/OFF will be ok

Good afternoon, soon I'll implement my printer even adding an original E3D Water Cooling System. I would like, if possible, to "control" it as a tool cooling fan to make it start (and stop) only when the tool reaches a given temperature (tipically 50°C). I would like to do so because it happens frequentely that a print finish when I'm not at home and I would like the Coolyng System to stop at a certain point and not running continuosly. If I'm not wrong the fan port can only support 1A at VIN on a Duet 2WiFi. The pump has a power of 10W. Adding the radiator's fan power to theese 10W I'm afraid I'm too close to 1A .. How about it? In case wolud it be possible in your opinion to drive the cooling system via a MOSFET connected to the fan port?

Thanks

Good morning, I've just ordered an orginal Duet3dFilamentMonitor RotatingMagnetVersion kit without the housing (the whole kit is overstock all over the world). I'll print the housing with my FDM printer at a layer height of 0,1mm, anyone has some hints to print it and about what post production I will have to made? In the guide it's written: "Note the housing can be 3d printed using an FDM printer using a fairly high resolution (e.g. 0.1 layer height) however some tweaking will be required to get the magnet distance just right and we recommend starting with the supplied housings." but it's not indicated what magnet distance is recomanded...

How about it?

Thanks!

Finally I've solved the problem because I found an original Magnetic Rotating sensor kit without the housing, so I've ordered it and I'll print the housing

@phaedrux said in Magnetic Filament Sensor alternatives?:

@the_dragonlord said in Magnetic Filament Sensor alternatives?:

this works "only" as a runout sensor not as clog sensor too, am I right?

No it should function similarly to the magnetic sensor, just lower resolution.

wow, excellent....but are the wiring ant the FW configuration the same as the original? I'd need two of them so could I add it to E0 end stop and E1 end stop?

@stuartofmt thanks! If I'm not wrong this works "only" as a runout sensor not as clog sensor too, am I right? In case what's its advantage related to a normal switch? Other thing: in the site it's written it's compatible only with Marlin...what's necessary to do to make it work with RFF?

Thanks!

@stuartofmt said in Magnetic Filament Sensor alternatives?:

@the_dragonlord

The bigtreetech sensor is about US$25. Its not nearly as precise (~7mm) as the more expensive options. I found that it works much better when mounted so the sensor itself cannot move about (e.g. to the printer frame). I use it on my ender 5 and have it mounted before the extruder motor. Not the most optimal - but it gets the job done.

mmhhh interesting... can you give me a link for the sensor please? Are you using it "as is" or have you modded it in some way?

@adrian52 Thanks but it's a little too expensive and difficult to get all the "external" parts...I think I'll go with two switches as simple filament runout sensors...

Good morning, I'm starting to project the implementation for my printer to print in two colors. Now I use a single original Duet Magnetic FIlament Sensor for my extruder, after the implementation I'd need two of them. At now the device is out of stock all over the world so I want to ask if there's an alternative to this sensor wich could be capable not only to work as a filament runout sensor (a simple swith would be enough) but as a clog sensor as well..Does it exist something like that? I cannot use the laser sensor because I oftenly use PETG and some transparent filaments....

Thanks
Andrea