@the_dragonlord I've reinstalled it and now it works like a charm, sorry guys!

@resam said in Timelapses, are they possible?:

--run-ffmpeg

IT WWWWWWOOOOORRRRKKKKKKSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!! Great jon my friend, great job!!! Thanks a lot for everything!!!

ok, it works with the example print but not with mine....I've inserted the GCODE in the layer change but it doesn't take the pictures...tha GCODE works because when the layer changes I see the nozzle stopping for a while....I'm using Ideamaker as slicer....any idea?
EDIT:
It started to wokr after about 6-7 layers....they are not so small layers, it take about 30-40 secs each to complete

@Phaedrux said in Electronics cooling fan on RRF3:

You must understand that the PWM used by the duet isn't the same as the 4 wire PWM fan would use normally. The duet is just switching the negative side at a frequency to approximate PWM. (Though you can actually wire up a 4 wire PWM capable fan and use it as intended as well). This method is rather effective most of the time but not all fans work well with it. I'm suggesting that the 4 wire fans probably would take to it just fine.

I've changed the fans and now it works like a charm!

Thanks!

@fcwilt said in The rotating magnet filament monitor is out of stock eveywhere:

@the_dragonlord said in The rotating magnet filament monitor is out of stock eveywhere:

would it be possible to use a switch as a filament sensor?

Yes but it only tells you if the filament has broken or run out.

The failure of filament to feed is of importance and thus the existence of sensors like the laser and rotating magnet designs.

But I imagine you already know all that.

Frederick

sure, infact I'll use a simple switch only for the time needed for the magnet sensor to be available again

@Sindarius said in 3D GCode Viewer integrated with DWC:

@the_dragonlord https://github.com/Sindarius/DWC_GCodeViewer_Plugin/releases/tag/0.9.3

sooooooooooooooooooooooooo much better! It works like a charm now!

@DaBit Thanks for all of your answers....you made me change my mind...I'll keep my 24VDC bed...too many risks for me and they're not worth it....thanks guys

@theruttmeister You're right, I think that grounding the alluminum plate is unuseful too....the silicon beds that you can find online have almost all the power of 750W wich is, in my opinion, a "lot" of power in terms of maximum reachable temperature....my alluminum bed is 3mm thick...

@jay_s_uk said in Could 220VAC Silicon bed heater be dangerous?:

@the_dragonlord yes.
I went for extra safety and have one on both live and neutral.
Don't forget to wire the aluminum plate to ground

But how and where have you atteched them to the heater?

@Veti said in Could 220VAC Silicon bed heater be dangerous?:

with a 220 ac heater defiantly add the thermal fuse.

if the heater detaches from the bed because the glue fails it would be a fire risk.

as I supposed...have the thermal fuse to be attached with glue or something else below the heater and in series with the heater's power supply line?

Good morning, I'm starting to think to add a 220VAC silicon heater for my 330x330 bed but I have some worries...of course working with the 220VAC a lot of cautions are mandatory (insulations and so) and to use an SSR to drive it is a must, but those things are not a problem....what worries me more is the doubt about what could happen if the thermistor should fail....what could be the behavoir of the board in that case? My main worry is that having no more temperature reading the board could let the heater powered on with the result of....well, you can imagine....I know that exist thermal fuse to add (attached below the bed an electrically in series with the main supply I suppose) so I was wondering if they have to be used or not...any suggestion?

Thanks

@matt3o said in I can't print object sliced with Prusa Slicer...:

@the_dragonlord I use absolute extrusion with Prusa, if that makes any difference

I've tried both but none of them works.....

@matt3o said in I can't print object sliced with Prusa Slicer...:

also if you are using prusa's presets be sure to remove any printer specific config in the filament gcode

No specific config are present

@dc42 said in I can't print object sliced with Prusa Slicer...:

@the_dragonlord, are you sure you have configured PrusaSlicer for the correct filament diameter, i.e. 1.75mm (assuming that is what you are using) and not 2.85mm?

yes, it is 1,75

@matt3o yes

It can't print every GCODE, it looks like the Extruder stepper spins with a low low low step/mm number....this is just a little example because only small files can be attached here....linked there are the extruder settings as well example.gcode