AKLP ckeck

bricor

I built a delta based on the AKLP spec.
240mm bed
480mm MGN12 type linear rails

Endstop switches are approx 655mm from the build plate

The linear rails start 165mm above the build plate (build plate to top of linear rail 645mm)

I'm using Haydn's 288mm mag diagonal rods, smart effector, PT100, E3D Volcano, Bondtech QR

DUET Duet 2 WiFi/2.04RC3

Example_ config.g
Example_ homedelta.g
Example_ bed.g

gabi68

@bricor
Thank you. Very helpfull to have something to compare to.

Gabi

bricor

@gabi68 You’re welcome. I didn’t look in detail but the one thing I saw was the rod length was set to 360. Are your diagonal rods 360 mm? If so, does the spec I posted match what you have? I believe the original diagonal rods were 268 mm

gabi68

I changed that with my dimensions. I now have another problem with the hotend. I have that famous error heater 1 fault. I check every connection, but still receive that error. Can you post a picture of your board?

Gabi

bricor

@gabi68 Not sure if this is what you were looking for, or if it's still relevant (I saw your Heater 1 fault post). Hope it helps. Sorry for the delay, I was at work and the printer isn't. Let me know if I can be of any more help.

dc42

@gabi68 said in AKLP ckeck:

I changed that with my dimensions. I now have another problem with the hotend. I have that famous error heater 1 fault. I check every connection, but still receive that error.

Have you run heater tuning?

gabi68

@dc42
It is possible to run that test with a fault in Heather1?

Gabi

gabi68

@bricor Do you use a 12V power supply? The reason I ask, is I setup the bridge for 12V and that maybe fried the PT100.
Very nice nozzle blower. Where did you get, if you don't mind asking?

Thank you for taking that picutres.
Gabi

bricor

@gabi68 I use 12v power supplies. I don't understand what are trying to convey with "I set up the bridge for 12v".

Part cooling fan: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2808152/files

You may have issues getting the support you need having 2 open posts with related content. I believe things are already a bit confused considering Dave's last response.

I didn't see in your other post the method used to test the PT100 sensor.
Did you remove the sensor from the circuit before testing? The best way to test the PT100 is to connect an Ohm meter directly across the sensor (the 2 wires of the PT100 by itself).

gabi68

@bricor Hi, by 'setup a bridge' I mean to install the jumper for 12V on the effector side.
Actually you are the only one which show me how to check this. Big THANK YOU. I will do that now. Already ordered a new one just in case.
Gabi

bricor

@gabi68 I would suggest publishing the results on the other post (the Heater 1 Fault) and close this one, unless you have more issues related directly to the AKLP.

Spare parts are always a good idea. I keep at least 1 in hand of each part for all the Hotend components. Heater, Block, Heat Break, Nozzle, Temp Sensor, Sock and bowden clips

gabi68

@bricor I just measured. The multimeter stays 0. Agree I will close this.

Thanks for your help
Gabi