I've just done some tests on my delta. A step pulse rate of 120kHz to each of 3 motors moving simultaneously gives a small but acceptable hiccup rate (less than 50 over 200mm). If I increase it to 150kHz then the hiccup rate goes up by a factor of 10. So I recommend not more than 120kHz. When only 1 drive is moving, higher rates are possible - I'm guessing around 200kHz. On non-delta machines the maximum rates may be a little higher because the calculations are simpler. This applies to stepper motors connected to the Duet's own drivers. For external stepper drivers the maximum rate will be lower because of the longer step pulse time and minimum step pulse interval. For machines using step-servo drives, the maximum step rate should be reduced further, because hiccups disrupt the smooth pulse train and that has a negative impact on the ability of a step-servo drive to predict what is coming next.

@dc42 - Hello again We replaced the board and finaly received the broken with a clear blister mark on U2 I think I know what did happen. BR Jan

What movement speeds are you trying to use when you move the Z axis? Your M203 Z movement speed limit is set to 12000 (200mm/sec). This is almost certainly much faster than your Z axis can do, and it would also require an unfeasibly high step rate. Try using a much lower value such as 300.

Ok, guys think I found the source of the problem. The connector that I made for the T0 was not tight so it was shaking when printing which creates a short on the connector. So after about 6 hours of printing everything looks good. Finish Print I need to calibrate my extruders and Tune cura. Cura Polymaker 2.85mm PolyLite PLA Filament Translucent .6 Nozzle .3 Layer Height 10% Infill. This was print at 150% scale. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2849214 The Hotend (T0) Connections. This shows the new connector.

@dc42 said in Problems with new Laser Filament Monitor: Have you made sure that there is a only very short piece of PTFE tubing between the filament monitor and the extruder inlet, secured at both ends, so that when the extruder reverses the filament is forced to run back through the sensor, and not bunch up between the sensor and the extruder? Yes, that is for sure Almost touching the extruder. And great to know that there is a firmware update related to the sensor. Thank you very much! You also made me remember that there is a loooong time since the last time I checked for debris over the sensor. I'll check on that. Also... @3dmntbighker said in Problems with new Laser Filament Monitor: For the record in my case lashing down the sensor made a big difference. Of course many filaments simply don't work with this sensor. But keeping the sensor from moving around was very important. I don't know how it even works with a bowden The sensor casing IS moving due to a bad positioning - it is perpendicular from where the filament comes and it surely started to get worst readings after that... I do not know why I did not correlate this before thank you!

i have to print some parts, so i loaded the "old" config.g and leveld like before. is there a way to configure the printer like it is now and i can play around with the probe? that´s the "old" config.g before the probe came. Endstops M574 X1 Y1 S0 ; Set active high endstops ; Z-Probe ;M558 P0 H5 F120 T6000 ; Disable Z probe but set dive height, probe speed and travel speed ;M557 X14:13 Y14:195 S20 ; Define mesh grid

@deckingman I started from a kit but as soon as the 24V conversion is finished virtually nothing will be left of the original printer. Anyway, you are right about the experience part. That is something I noticed along my journey several times. And since I rarely need a 3D printer this will stay a learning-tinkering-project. But ultimately I want to convert to something where the bed moves in Z and no longer in Y. Not sure if that will be a cubed Cartesian or a CoreXY or Markforged or HaqXY or whatever there also is. But I am pretty sure it won't be a Delta. Let's see where this journey goes.

Hang on, my bad, Miss read one of the console logs and recorded the derivative, rather than Dead time! Sorry! 18/01/2019, 09:17:08 M307 H1 Heater 1 model: gain 243.7, time constant 132.9, dead time 4.5, max PWM 1.00, calibration voltage 0.0, mode PID, inverted no, frequency default Computed PID parameters for setpoint change: P21.6, I0.885, D68.1 Computed PID parameters for load change: P21.6 18/01/2019, 09:14:48 Auto tune heater 1 completed in 354 sec Use M307 H1 to see the result, or M500 to save the result in config-override.g 18/01/2019, 09:12:46 Auto tune phase 3, peak temperature was 231.9 18/01/2019, 09:12:39 Auto tune phase 2, heater off 18/01/2019, 09:08:59 Auto tune phase 1, heater on 18/01/2019, 09:08:53 M303 H1 P1 S230 Auto tuning heater 1 using target temperature 230.0°C and PWM 1.00 - do not leave printer unattended

@dc42 said in Expected Behaviour?: I've moved the posts from this thread that were about DWC behaviour to a new thread. So I see - thanks.

Finally found time to upgrade to DWC 1.22.6 and can confirm that the behaviour persists. In summary the "Heaters" section of DWC always shows active and standby temperature for Heater1 as being zero (with a multi extruder, single heater, hot end) . It could be kind of dangerous as it is possible to set an active tool temperature in the heater section but not know that it has been set because the displayed value is always zero. It's not a problem if temperatures are always set using the "Tools" section of DWC.

@jckray said in [Solved] Calibrate Z-probe macro: this script measures and saves a G10 tool offset, which is separate from the z-probe trigger hight. I went this route, because, as I understand it, measuring the trigger height just reports the value and requires a manual G31 entry with the new trigger hight in order for M500 P31 to save the new trigger height. Hmm, maybe I should add a S-3 option to the G31 command, that probes the bed and then sets the trigger height to the stopped height?

First, I am impressed by the video! Does it show actual speed, or have you speeded it up to show the pickup rate that you hope to achieve when the machine is in production? I guess what you want to do it to increase the movement speed without losing precision, so you can increase the pickup rate. First you need to determine what is causing precision to be lost when you increase the speed. Are the motors skipping steps? If so then you will need to use either a higher supply voltage with the existing motors, or higher current motors with the existing supply voltage, or lower gearing. The first two of those would require external stepper drivers, if you are currently driving the motors direct from the Duet. If you are already using external drivers, or you are using the Duet drivers but the M122 hiccup count increases when you increase speed, then reducing microstepping may help (if you are using external drivers then this needs to be done on the drivers, not the Duet). Does the effector wobble too much when you increase speed? If so then you probably need to use thicker but lightweight arms (carbon fibre tube is my suggestion, if you are using something different), also shorten the arms if that can be done without compromising the reach. I think it is a good idea to use step-servo motors in that application, because I think they would be affordable in that system and because if you did lose motor steps then expensive damage could result.

@3dmntbighker said in Ender 3 nothing working right: @martin1454 said in Ender 3 nothing working right: I think it is amazing that you have installed an Duet wifi in a printer that cost almost the same as the duet Looking foward to see then end result. My Maestro Ender 3 works fantastic. I saw it as a cheap way to acquire the basic bits, and build what I wanted. I probably could have sourced the same parts from China for less, but this was a lot easier and faster. Yes, the Maestro is better matched to the Ender 3 from a pricing perspective, also the use of 24V power and lower current motors on the Ender 3 is a good match for the Maestro. A WiFi derivative of the Maestro (which would cost a little less to manufacture than the Ethernet version) might be an even better match, provided that the WiFi antenna can be kept out of the enclosure metalwork.

@3dmntbighker, I think the issue you refer to was buffer exhaustion in the firmware that runs on the WiFi module of the Duet WiFi. Is the web interface reliable when you run DWC 1.22.6?

Thanks @dc42 for your comprehensive reply. I will copy it into the Cura conversation.

Yes, that's exactly the information I need if the problem happens again when you are using current firmware.

Continuing problem with this machines tuning. I've recently got back to comissioning this machine after setting up a P3Steel Marlin based machine. Interestinglingly they use a number of heating loops (user definable) rather than one. I think I have an issue with my part cooling fan shroud where by the part cooling air gets sucked into the hotend cooling vent and exhausted out the top when close to the part bed and over cooling the hotend even with a sock on. End result is the PID controller is too tame to bring it upto temp after the fan drops the temp by a couple of degrees. I'll probably go ahead with tuning with the hotend close to the bed and fan on and see how different the PID values are. I'll let it cool to 40 and repeat to see how close twp consecutive runs are. Edit: Will restart a new thread as I think I've found a bug...