I would suggest you do multiple probes. I set my printer to probe (max) 5 times to ensure I get consistent results for G29. Play with A and S parameters of M558. I use A5 S0.01 (try 5 times max, 10µ tolerance)

Are you sure they are 1K resistors? They should be 100 ohm. I think one of your PT100 boards has a faulty channel. Please ask your supplier to replace it.

I have updated the instructions for connecting a BLTouch on the wiki.

@dc42 , @Phaedrux Oh, i understand now and S0 on M574 solved all my problems. Thank you both for your interest.

I tried everything but PEI for PETG, because I had read that it can stick too much to PEI. I finally tried PEI and never looked back. I clean with 99% alcohol in between prints and set the temperatures around 82c. I set the nozzle height with printer paper. I mostly print Esun PETG. No gluestick. No hairspray. Never had an issue removing the prints. Have only had an occasional problems with warping on large thick parts with very dense infill. In my experience PETG likes moderate temperatures. I think I had some adhesion issues a while back from temperatures set too high. PETG adhesion can be tricky if you don't have slicer settings dialed in for it. In simplify 3D, I go for a 150% first layer height, 120% first layer width 35% first layer speed (might be able to go faster) and for PETG I set the outline direction to inside out (Don't do this with PLA). I had problems getting PETG dialed in in Cura. I do have an ultra base (I took the adhesive off so I can switch it with other surfaces) I don't like gluing things down because then your left with a mess when you have to change it out. I only really printed with it once. The PCB heater is nice though. They are a bit more powerful than the MKII boards (at least the 220x220 version is) and I have run mine set at 118C (measured with IR thermometer to get minimum 110c) for abs, no problem. If you have to run a PCB heater due to weight considerations, these are worth it just for the PCB.

Just to clarify, if you want to separate the printer network from your home network, the third number (octet) does not necessarily have to be different...it depends on the subnet mask. If using a 24 bit mask (255.255.255.0) then the third number must be different but the ip address ranges can be subdivided using the mask so that a 192.168.1.0 network can be divided by using more than 24 bits in the mask. So with a 25 bit mask (255.255.255.128), it becomes one network with an address range from 192.168.1.1 - 192.168.1.126 and another with a range from 192.168.1.129 - 192.168.1.254.

@phaedrux I use G29 alone so it probes before each print. I will get the map posted as my printer is away

@mickey30m, the connector part numbers on that page are for the shells and crimps that fit on the cables, but if you look up those part numbers you will find the part numbers for the connectors that you want to replace on the board. If your Duet is a version 1.03 or 1.04 then the reason the fans don't work is most likely that the 1A blade fuse has blown.

That sounds like mismatched main firmware and WiFi firmware versions. Did you update DuetWiFiServer to version 1.21 too?

You missed out the most important steps: "design" and "design review" come before "edit".

@lb said in steppers with lots of Amp... + M906 command: @dc42 "stupid" (maybe) question, while digging up new motor-alternatives: Those 2,4A, are they "per phase"? Or in total? I assume per phase. Because: Let´s say I pick a motor that has 2,12A (1phase), what would be fine... then this motor will have 2 * 2,12A * 1/sqrt(2) -> = ca. 3A then on every two-phase step in total (with only 1,5A on each single phase of course). The 2.4A is the peak per-phase current. When using microstepping, only one phase gets the peak current at a time. When full stepping is selected, both phases get the peak current all the time.

Are absolute encoders for linear position actually available, at affordable prices?

Hi Russ, nice to hear from you again. I suggest you look at this post https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/2554/8x8x6-meter-concrete-printer and maybe send a PM to its author, because he does the same thing (I think) on his concrete printer. AFAIR he uses an extra axis (U) to control the extruder rotation, and he processes the GCode from the slicer to add the U coordinates to the G1 commands. You need to use a very recent version of RRF for the extra axis support to work on a delta. HTH David

@joergs5 said in SCARA single arm: @dk I have to finish other projects before winter, but Jan/Feb I will implement parallel Scara into Duet and give it David to implement. If he wants to implement it himself, that's fine too, but it is not necessary, if you have a bit of patience. Sounds great!

Hello everyone! its been a bit scene i have been on here, for those who have not seen it, i created a flat coil winder using the duet controlled delta i built, here is a few videos of it working: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KP2G4fE0ssI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yj8OHuxBzAg it even made it to hackaday, that was cool, https://hackaday.com/2018/06/16/delta-printer-morphs-into-cnc-flat-coil-winder/ any hoo, it would not be possible with out the Duet! i "sell" theses to everyone i talk to others about how much i love it and that the community here is one vital roll in its success! Just thought i would post this here as i haven't posted in a while, thanks again to all those who contributed to this platform. I do have a request though. in order for this to work correctly, i need to find a way to make a stepper motor turn the cam follower head in the direction that I'm trying to lay the wire, This way i can control precisely where i lay the wire and i dont have to rely on the wire to " pull" the cam around. right now there is an offset between the roller and the zero point of the Gcode / indefector. Dose anyone know if there is a way i can use the extruder motor out put ( or an extra output to a driver) that i can automatically tell it to move in accordance to the direction that the endefector is moving? The alternative is to offset the Gcode so that the cam follower is in the correct place. if i wanted to place the wire exactly, or make sharp corners i can have to offset this. very hard thing to do. I thought about trying a drag knife type Gcode editor for corners. but that's not a good option. because the radius of arcs or any moment really is going to be off set. so the best thing is to have a motor that can move the head around to make sure it fallows the current direction on the fly. then i can make the roller in the zero location and have no offset. right now there has to be an offset or the wire / roller will not work correctly. If there is any possible way to do this with current duet functionality or G code script... please let me know, if there is not please let me know if you'd be interested in making a script or some type of program / addition to the duet that can do this. to be clear, I want to drive a stepper motor that would be turning the cam follower (360 deg) so it always was trailing the direction of travel. and for this to be done internally on the fly or from a gcode script that would add the extra g code to do this, using the already created G code for the wire placement. This would also be helpful for a drag knife type tool... here is just a photo of some # 40 AWG wire with a gap, this is a bifilar coil... oh and i guess i did not update this thread with the addition of the 9 arms on the delta... i did this for more support on the CNC milling attachment i made. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_aMtAWiK64 Thanks for any input and help / feed back. positive criticism is welcome god bless! ~Russ Gries

@elmoc if you send M122 what does the signal strength say? Have you seen this? https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/WiFi_disconnections_and_AJAX_timeout_errors

Maybe @dc42 says that pull-up is not required because Duet already has one. Basically, you connect brown (+) to V+ (do more than 5V because those senors like more), blue (-) to GND just like in your schematics. The black (output) wire is connected through a diode (put the line of the diode towards your sensor). When the sensor is not activated the signal line of the Duet stays at Duet's 3V3 because of the internal pull-up. When sensor is triggered, the last NPN transistor shorts the signal (its collector) to ground (its emitter). In theory, no diode will be required, but if the sensor has also an internal pull-up (not open collector) it will push its V+ with higher voltage towards Duet's signal and nasty things can happen. Measure the voltage on Duet's signal pin when triggered and not triggered in your last schematic. Untriggered should be ~3.3V and triggered should be ~0V.

Have found good comparison video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qRrJK5jTZSA

Simple storage. The firmware gets flashed onto the board itself. The firmware bin file on the card isn't used after that.