@garyd9 thanks, that was absolutely correct! Checking my config.bak the previous value was at -0.414, so I must have messed this up when adjustig the trigger value. The test gcode posted above looks perfect now. Thanks!

Can my duet WiFi operate without end-stops? I remember coming across eliminating end-stops using stall detection. I think I remember seeing that some of the new boards can do this but wasn't sure if my 1.02 version could do this.

I use teflon blocks with slightly undersized holes for the leveling screws. The holes grip the screws tightly and prevent them from wobbling, and the teflon plus steel screws minimizes heat transfer, and teflon doesn't mind the heat at all. Here's one of the leveling screws on a bed-flinger printer (SoM) I recently converted to a kinematic bed mount. I don't insulate the underside of the bed because I close the printer to print ABS. Any heat "lost" from the underside of the bed warms the enclosure. Electronics are mounted below and outside of the enclosure.

@wyvern yes, .8 nozzle. That could be it.

@gpetropoulos The trigger height is so high because the nozzle is below bed level when homed. I home Z next to the bed using an endstop, then lift the nozzle up and calibrate using this high dive height. Worked for about one year. I will test this tomorrow.

Would this buffer problem explain why I have been experiencing problems uploading files to my first ever Duet2 WiFi? I've had various manifestations of the problem: once a failed save of an edit to config.g in the browser, several times starting an upload of a g-code file and then seeing the transfer stall after a couple of MB and then error out. The first time I had trouble uploading a g-code file, rebooting solved the problem. The second time, even a reboot and immediate re-upload resulted in the transfer stalling and terminating with an error. When that happened, I shut down, powered off and put the SD card in my Linux laptop. I checked the file system on the card (and cleared the dirty bit) and read the entire card with dd without issue. My hardware is a genuine Duet2 WiFi from duet3d.com in the UK. When I got to testing my new printer just before Christmas, I updated both the Duet and the PanelDue 7i that I have to the latest releases of their firmware when 2.02 was released. Everything works fine except for these spurious file transfer errors.

Yeah, I had moved that when I updated the firmware but I guess I forgot to remove it from the original line. Thanks for the heads up.

Thanks again, what is the advantage of adding in the extra G30?

@torro Post your homing files. The extra 5 is probably your dive height from M558. After probing it returns to this height. The 0.45 is your trigger height, because that's the distance from the bed when it triggered. To verify your height from the bed, send the nozzle slowly to Z0 at the same XY position the G30 was done. The nozzle should stop just touching the bed. If the nozzle is too high or too low, adjust the Z height in small increments until it's just touching. Now you can use that value to fine tune your G31 Z offset.

I do have some cable size recommendations in this post https://vkingprinter.com/knowledge-base/cable-managment/

@dc42 I've manage to get the homeall.g to work now byt homing Y first, then X and then U (all independently). But I have encountered another problem. When I try to run G29 both the X and U tries to move, when I only want X and Y to move. U just crashes into the endstop. config.g looks like this ; Endstops M574 U0 S0 ; set active low endstops M574 X1 Y1 S1 ; Set active high endstops ; Z-Probe M574 Z1 S2 ; Define Z to use Probe. Home to Min. M558 P9 H5 F500 T6000 ; Set Z probe type/mode 9. G31 P25 X0 Y-57.3 Z0.0 ; Z probe trigger value, offset in relation to nozzle. And trigger height adjustment M557 X50:480 Y60:480 S50 ; define mesh grid ; BLTouch - Heaters M307 H3 A-1 C-1 D-1 ; Disable the 2nd Heater to free up PWM channel 1 on the Duex board

so based on you last measurements, the correct wire order for the connector on the board would be Red, Black, Green, Blue. (Your current order is Red, Blue, Green, Black, as seen in above photo)

I have modified my perl script. It will add the first tool to the file if not is found before the first layer change. Now I can use a single print & printer settings with slic3r PE. You need to add this line to your start gcode in slic3r so the script knows the default tool to use: ;my_default_tool=[perimeter_extruder] and this line to the end of your start gcode for the script to know when the first layer is started: ;my_startgcode_end Here is the script: #!/usr/bin/perl -i # # - Translates Fan gcodes # - Adds the default tool as first tool when none is found before the first layer change # - Removes M109 : set and wait for temperature command # # You need to add this line to your start gcode in slic3r so the script knows the default tool: # ;my_default_tool=[perimeter_extruder] # and this line to the end of your start gcode for the script to know when the first layer is started: # ;my_startgcode_end use strict; use warnings; $^I = '.bak'; # read stdin and any/all files passed as parameters one line at a time my $DefaultTool="0"; my $FirstToolCheck="0"; my $SlicerTool="-1"; while (<>) { if (/^;my_default_tool\=([0-9]{1})/) { # search for ;my_default_tool #print "; Found Default Tool $1\n"; $DefaultTool=$1-1; } s/M106/M106 P0/; # model fan speed command s/M107/M106 P0 S0/; # model fan turn off s/M104\s*(S[0-9]{1,3}) T([0-9])/G10 P$2 $1/; # set tool temperature (old) # first tool search , use DefaultTool if none is found before the first line containing ;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE if ($FirstToolCheck > 0) { # check if first tool is defined #print "; First Tool Check > 0\n"; if (/^T([0-9]{1})/) { # search for first tool set $SlicerTool=$1; } if (/^;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE/) { # when no tool is found use DefaultTool parsed from GCODE line, example: ;my_default_tool=[perimeter_extruder] $FirstToolCheck = "0"; if ($SlicerTool < 0) { print "T$DefaultTool; set default tool as first tool as none was found\n"; } } } if (/^;my_startgcode_end/) { # search for ;my_startgcode_end print "; is a tool defined before reaching line ;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE ?\n"; $FirstToolCheck="1"; } s/M109/;M109/; # deprecated don't use "set temperature and wait for it to be reached" - use duets own tool change macros and G10 command print; }

@supraguy Thanks and you are right. On second thought I'll ask my supplier for a replacement because of possible heating-issues... And soldering a SMT board is a Nono for me...

Check that the thermistor and heater cartridge are firmly inside the heater block. Tighten the grub screw and clamping screw.

@3mm If you want to try it out, I would be willing to give you a heatsink to do the proper thermal investigation. I have 2 more heatsinks, since they come in a 3 pack.

Hi, While I was packing the Duet 2 plate (rev 1.3) for send us, I think I've seen the problem ..... I do not know how I have not noticed before, because it seems VERY obvious. The E0 driver is burned ... Now the theme is to know why, so as not to repeat it. Any idea why? If you do not tell me otherwise, upon discovering this evidence, I will send you the plaque tomorrow morning.

Instead of calling G29 directly, using a Marco could be an option where you lower fan speed, do the G29, go back to full speed.... just an idea. You can also do a retract of the filament if you want to feel safer while the bed is probed. Reason for the fan (please correct me if I'm wrong) it to ensure that the filament does not melt in the upper part, but in the hotend itself

@xsivspd Still 12vdc. I've seen that the bed should allow for 24v connectivity but the wiring diagram on the bottom of the bed doesn't match up with the number of solder pads next to it. The printer draws 20 amps during operation with the hot end at 200c and the bed at 60c. During load the voltage from the power supply drops to 11.5 volts. I've considered turning the power supply up a bit to compensate since it wouldn't hurt anything. If I can verify 24v wiring for the bed, I can jumper the fans for 12v (I think I read that someplace), and change the heater cartridge in the hot end and find a 24 volt 15 or 20 amp power supply to power it all. With xy set to 1.1amps, and e set to 1.05amps movement speed set to 8000mm/min, and print speed set to 4000mm/sec I managed a print last night with no skips and no feed issues. But yeah, the bed draws 16 amps at 12 volts, tested with a Fluke meter. I moved up to 12 gauge power lead and T60 connectors and the power lead is warm to the touch. It would be good to switch to 24 vols. I still have some fine tuning to do in Simplify3D, I'm getting whispy stringing. I had really bad stringing initially but playing with retraction is having a positive effect on fixing that issue.