Maybe this sounds a little silly, but you're sure its not correct? A fault somewhere could lead to excessive current flowing through the sensor turning into a heater. If it is wrong then config and wiring needs a checkup. Try moving it to another input. Measure the resistance of the sensor if you have a multimeter.

@bearer That's what i kinda suspected, but isn't that just as likely to happen when/if it's running BangBang?

@cubex249 I figured it out. I added a I1 in the M558

Yeah, measure when bed is cold, that is the worst case scenario afaik. Disconnect (at least) one lead from the board to ensure the circuit doesn't affect your measurement.

@insertnamehere said in Inverting PS_ON levels: @nxt-1 +5V is from the Meanwell aux supply. I'm sorry to dig up this old thread, but I finally can to actually using this schematic. According to the datasheet, the 24V PSU needs: "RC+/RC- : 4 ~10V or open = power on ; 0 ~ 0.8V or short = power off" as a remote control signal. I soldered the little circuit together, but when I connect +5V and GND to the two terminals of my 5V PSU and measure the RC+ output of this diagram, I measure just 3.3V to GND. Also did you leave RC- floating or tied to GND in your printer? While thinkering with the optocouper, I came to think if there is any good reason to not connect the transistor straight across the RC+ and RC- terminals? As I see it, this would create a short or open based on PS_ON controlling the PSU just as well as a voltage applied. If I am mistaken, please correct me

@dc42 - How do you think we should proceed here?

@jv43 I use a perl script, windows 10, you need to adjust the paths to match your structure. This is replacing the string correctly, but I haven't tried if this will really fix it for dwc. The newest prusa slicer hasn't the perl bundled anymore..I use the perl5.24.0.exe from previous version Slic3rPE-1.41.3+win64-full-201902111723 PrusaSlicer - print settings - output : D:\3Dprint\filause.bat; The content of the filause.bat file: D:\ProgrammePortable\Slic3rPE-1.41.3+win64-full-201902111723\perl5.24.0.exe d:\3dprint\filause.pl %* The content of the filause.pl file: use strict; use warnings; $^I = '.bak'; # create a copy of the file # read stdin and any/all files passed as parameters, one line at a time while (<>) { # shorten string to display creation time of file on dwc # s/PrusaSlicer/PS/; # filament used [mm] = s/; filament used [mm](.*)/; filament used$1/; print; }

@chriskimbr said in Duet2Wifi board connectors that won't move.: @bearer said in Duet2Wifi board connectors that won't move.: molex kk s Would like to latch or lock in connections somehow. @bearer said in Duet2Wifi board connectors that won't move.: replacing headers and connectors with something latched like Molex SL or JST XH-B.

M260 can send data over I²C bus: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M260_i2c_Send_and_or_request_Data On the I²C slave, just mimic some registers you will write from Duet to take the actions you need. I recently developped a project using an ATtiny841 as I²C slave (this chip as a hardware I²C slave implementation), working this way. See: https://framagit.org/fma38/Servo_Node This is for an hexapod (I will use 6 of them, to control the 4 servos of each leg). But I will certainly use this chip for other projects, like here. Code in Arduino/ dir is a master example; the real master will be a RPi, running my framework Py4bot: https://framagit.org/fma38/Py4bot

@hnwhite said in PanelDue 7i came damaged: @T3P3TONY e3d says I need an admin to comment on this post. Roland is Roland Lock and a Director of Duet3D Ltd. E3D know that. So if Roland says that E3D should send you a replacement straight away, why are they playing stupid games with you?

Sounds like an optimized design is in the near future. I could definitely use a bit more bearing clearance. I think the whole thing could be a bit wider with some bearing slop and room for a longer bolt. It seems like it's tighter in there than it needs to be to save a few mm outer dimension.

I want to use it. Is file sharing possible? I want it politely.

thanks m8

I was also getting errors too frequently (every 2 seconds or so) about the Wifi module. See this video: https://youtu.be/1MD_5E8soJQ

doing the Saving the calibration results from your link that you posted your config contains these lines M665 R272 L420 B300 H720 ; Set delta radius, diagonal rod length, printable radius and homed height M666 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Put your endstop adjustments here, or let auto calibration find them they are almost certainly not the ones from the auto calibration

@dc42 EDIT: O.K. "But when I connected a 47pF capacitor between a stepper motor output and one of the PT100 wires to simulate even closer coupling, I got the spikes in the temperature reading that users reported. The additional capacitors fix that, even when the 47p capacitor is increased to 470p." What works, works I guess... Can´t wait to add them for noobs like me If it absorbs everything, I hope it still throws at least a "check your wiring for short"-message, because as stupd as it may sound, most of the time it boils down to it also I am happy if I cannot burn down anything with sparks wide open illuminating the printer from within - ha -> Just interested to build up on my non-existent knowledge: Would there be any benefit of a X2Y-Layout? (I guess there is no space for it to keep it backwards compatibel...) EDIT2: Would moving traces as far apart as possible while keeping them symmetrical from the 2 chips to their terminals further reduce risk of influencing one sensor the other? I guess it is neglectable "in first approximation"? @dc42 EDIT3: O.K. I am realising I have to "eat my own words" (or forumposts) here I guess: If you are going to install capacitors that are so good they can even filter away my bad wiring and metal-works over electornics, I will never find my errors But I guess you are just filtering enough to have it kinda working and still not so much, so that people with bad wiring will have to look after it...

What version of the BLTouch is it? What version of Duet2Wifi is it? Newer versions won't require you to cut the 3.3v trace. https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_a_Z_probe#Section_BLTouch https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/BLTouch_Troubleshooting https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Test_and_calibrate_the_Z_probe

I'm doing the same on a smaller scale 150x150mm; but magnets seems to be stuck in customs so can't say much about how it'll work. Since aluminium spread the heat quite well I had enough space between my heating traces to embed 3x3 grid of 6x20 pockets from the underside and still have a perfectly uniform temperature on top (measured with thermal camera and masking tape) For the glass I'm hoping to use magnets as well, use diamond annular cutters or hole saws to make a series of overlapping cuts to make up a shallow pocket to embed something for the magnets to attract to. Waiting to try out the steel first before I start messing with the glass Havent decided on registration yet, pins, edge, just the magnets, idk,