@Maks All the Z moves in the gcode file are at F600 (10mm/s), eg G0 F600 X157.975 Y141.57 Z0.5. Your config.g has the maximum speed (M203) for Z as 600mm/min and maximum instantaneous speed changes (Jerk) (M566) as 24mm/min. I think these are too fast, and the Z is just failing to move. Reduce these until you can reliable move Z up and down when sending something like G1 Z5 F600. Try M203 Z180 and M566 Z12 first, then increase from there. Ian

@danym21 Hey man I just noticed I had this lines in my config.g here for my sensorless homing; it seems like Stealthchop would not engage unless these are in place ; Stealthchop parameters M915 P0 S3 F1 H134 T1 R0 M915 P1 S3 F1 H134 T1 R0 I do not not why, but my guess would be around T parameter that controls the coolstep register according to https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M915_Configure_motor_stall_detection Edit: Also the Hmin parameter; for which I made a calculator here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1gCapl-1CZh7Zz267W_CFtLBbBV-UMDjpXMGDIyr5oE4/edit?usp=sharing @dc42 thoughts?

@mitch See dc's response above. Also, ribbon cable is uninsulated, so quite probe to picking up interference. If you're not using the SD card, it would be best to use the 4-wire cable, and twist the comms wires together (usually the green and blue wires). If you change the baud rate in config.g, don't forget to change the baud rate on the Paneldue settings. Ian

@Pritt It's unlikely to work with every driver, but likely to work with most TB6600 drivers. See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode?revisionid=HEAD#Section_M569_Set_motor_driver_direction_enable_polarity_and_step_pulse_timing Taa:bb:cc:dd (firmware 1.21 and later) Minimum driver step pulse width, step pulse interval, direction setup time and direction hold time, in microseconds You should be able to find minimum driver step pulse width and step pulse interval in the external driver's specification sheet. Ian

@tenaja If you could describe your machine requirements (you say 2 axis CNC, but with one rotation axis?), and post your config.g as it stands now, I'll have a look and see if it can be improved. Do you need to use the extruder axis? It looks like you're trying to use it as a spindle? Or is it to turn the spindle to follow a line (so not really a spindle, more to turn the cutter in the correct direction)? Also, you said earlier when you posted your config.g: I deleted the network setup If you mean you have M587 in your config.g, you need to remove this from your config anyway. As well as being a security hazard, writing the access point parameters to WiFi chip every time you start the Duet may eventually wear out the flash memory. See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode?revisionid=HEAD#Section_M587_Add_WiFi_host_network_to_remembered_list_or_list_remembered_networks Ian

I think the real advantage of the neopixel system by Claus is that it makes connecting them a bit easier and puts no extra strain on the duet. It's a bit easier to connect to as to do a similar thing with the dotstar port you have to chain them while the neopixel system let's you set up a bunch of separate neopixel units. I have one inside my toolchanger/x gantry for parts lightning and then another 5 for status/bed temp/chamber temp/ and print heads. There's even a modified version that someone did that put all the info onto a bunch of cheap OLED screens using the same system.

@dc42 here's a video showing exactly what's happening: https://youtu.be/2roaQ5Jfvrk

Has anybody any ideas how to display the correct information when sequentially printing items?

@dc42 said in 6 axis delta 3D printer: I have had a good experience with the Robotdigg linear rails on my delta, so I would go for a single rail instead of two. Which ones do you recommend? They have several references, and not much informations about relative quality... The rule of thumb is that the arms should always make an angle of 20deg or more to the horizontal. This typically makes them about 60deg to the horizontal when the effector is centred. Ok. Having used two types of ball joint and been unhappy with them, I recommend the magnetic joints by Haydn Huntley. Do you think they are strong enough to hold an extruder, like Hemera? RRF does not include kinematics for a 6-axis delta. They would need to be added. I hoped you could help me on that part Earlier in this thread, you mentionned the fact that forward kinematic is not mandatory... To make use of the additional degrees of freedom of a 6-axis delta, you would need a special slicer. Yep, as said, I will first use my own Python code to print portions of sphere (I already made some tests, but without head tilting). Thanks!

@dc42 That would work fine for my application! As long as I keep the number of axes which need it low.

I think M106 lets you specify min and max speeds; but its probably simplest to just try; or try arhi's suggestion not sure if daemon.g is any more risky with regards to safety if the firmware glitches or not.

It sounds like an issue with one of the following: The voltage divider that is used to measure VIN. It's just 3 passive components: R80, R81, C79. Try measuring the voltage across R81 or C79. It should be 1/11 of VIN. The soldering of the microcontroller analog input pin to the PCB. It's pin 41 of the microcontroller. The voltage on that pin with respect to ground should be the same as the voltage across R81/C79. A problem with the ADC in the microcontroller.

I took the board with me to work today to flash the 2.05.1 firmware and here uploads are working (with DWC 3.1.1 !). Just to verify I re-flashed with firmware 3.1.1 and uploads are still working! Although upload speeds are a bit disappointing at ~500k max. So it seems the duet wifi has problems with some wifi setups. I'll investigate this when I get home from work this evening, but right now I have no clue where I should start... At work we have aruba APs and at home I'm running 2 cisco APs and never had any issues, especially not such specific ones like transfers only in one direction (downloading from the duet works just fine!) and only above a certain filesize... I'll try to gather some useful information from the debug output later. Here on the network at work all seems fine (=no errors/warnings) when I enable debug for network and wifi (M111 P1 S1 && M111 P1 S14)

Thank you...I will take a look when I can and get pictures. Quad life... might be awhile.

Need more info otherwise we're just guessing. https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/5909/guide-for-posting-requests-for-help

In 3.1.1 you bind the drivers to the same Z axis, and then in the M574 you define both endstop pins. But if you have a z probe, this is a better method. https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Bed_levelling_using_multiple_independent_Z_motors

Maybe post a photo of your wiring and probe? Post full config.g.

@Phaedrux said in Height Map from my updated MarkForged style printer: I guess the visual just makes it look like a narrow strip. But maybe not. It covers most of the bed. When printing I like to stay at least 5mm away from the edges. But now that you've mentioned it I think I'll do a max height map just to see. Frederick

Adding my voice to the recommendations to test your motor phases. My BLV cube kit came with inconsistent wire colors on the motors and I burned out one of my Duet2 drivers before I learned better! I also think it’s likely that you have motors working against each other. Try (IIRC) G1 Y20 F500 S2 and see if just one motor turns.

IF sensitivity still isn't getting you to stall detect, decrease current and increase speed. Also review your H value in M915 as @baird1fa has said. Default values aren't going to work most likely, you will need to tune it. https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Stall_detection_and_sensorless_homing

Pause and Cancel?

I think you should try with PLA at first to see how that goes before moving on the PETG since it can be a challenge in and of itself. Here's a few things you can try. First clean your bed surface really well. a little bit of dish soap and warm and a good rinse followed by a wipe down with clean cloth and IPA should make it nice and clean. Even a fingerprint is enough to stop the plastic from sticking. If that doesn't help try: Slow down your first layer. 20mm/s. Turn up the bed heat by 10c. Turn up first layer nozzle temp by 10c. Recalibrate your extruder : https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Ender+3+Pro+and+Duet+Maestro+Guide+Part+4:+Calibration/40 You might be able to improve the performance of your BLTouch with some extra M558 commands. M558 P9 H3 F60 T6000 A10 R0.75 S0.003 Make sure your X and Y offsets are correct for the probe.

A quick googling of gcode preview or gcode viewer will give a few online tools to try, but they aren't that great honestly.