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    Using the RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool

    Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved
    Firmware installation
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    • Captain_squndefined
      Captain_sq
      last edited by

      Schematic for the printehead PCB: http://i.imgur.com/loWDu1e.jpg
      Schematic for the mainboard: http://images.velleman.eu/manuals/vertex/troubleshooting/03/001.jpg
      Schematic for the endstops: http://images.velleman.eu/manuals/vertex/troubleshooting/03/003.jpg

      Note that the +15V seems to be directly connected to the LED anode but there is a series resistor on the mainboard to limit the LED current.

      Custom made Kossel Mini - Duet WiFi / Modded Tronxy X5S - Duet WiFi / Prusa i3 MKIII


      Embedded systems designer, RC Pilot, maker and Gadget-o-holic

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      • biscuitladundefined
        biscuitlad
        last edited by

        Er, not sure what means! I know really nothing about electronics. With a bit of luck, I can follow instructions though? πŸ˜‰

        There's also a full pdf of everything, including all the resistor values:

        https://www.velleman.eu/images/tmp/K8400%203D%20Printer%20Technical%20Doc.pdf

        I was wondering if I could cannibalise the old board to get the resistors needed to fix the bad sensor? I have no idea how to do that, of course! Sadly a quick search of the pdf didn't reveal a 100 ohms resistor anywhere on that board.

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        • dc42undefined
          dc42 administrators
          last edited by

          Looking at those schematics, the positive feed to the endstops is meant to be through a current limiting resistor that is on the main board. These resistors are R52, R56 and R60, but no value for them is provided in the BOM.

          The endstop itself has a visible LED in series with the IR LED inside the opto switch, but no current limiting resistor.

          Here are two ways of making those endstops work reliably with a Duet:

          1. Instead of connecting the positive feeds to the endstops to the +3.3v (centre) pins on the endstop connector, connect each one through a series resistor to either +5V or VIN.

          2. Remove the visible LED from the endstop board and replace it by a resistor. A value of 180 ohms in a 0805 package should be about right.

          Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
          Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
          http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

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          • biscuitladundefined
            biscuitlad
            last edited by

            Ok, the first looks easier for my limited abilities. What value should the in series resistor be?

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            • dc42undefined
              dc42 administrators
              last edited by

              If you feed them from 5V then I suggest a resistor of around 180 ohms.

              Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
              Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
              http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

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              • biscuitladundefined
                biscuitlad
                last edited by

                OK, but R52, R56 and R60 were doing the job previously, maybe I could take a chance with those even though we don't know their value?

                Could I possibly replace the LED on the sensor with one of R52 etc? I've never tried anything like this, so I don't know how take a component out of a board and solder back into place somewhere else. Is it hard?

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                • dc42undefined
                  dc42 administrators
                  last edited by

                  If the voltage fed to the endstops through the resistors is +15V as implied by the schematic, then the values of R52/56/60 will be too high. OTOH there are several 330 ohm resistors listed in the BOM for that board. Those may well work in place of the LED on the sensor, and if they don't you can solder a second one on top of the first to use two of them in parallel giving 165 ohms.

                  Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
                  Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
                  http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

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                  • biscuitladundefined
                    biscuitlad
                    last edited by

                    OK, basic tutorial on the process. Heat up soldering iron, place on one side of resistor until it melts and pull off with a pair of tweezers? Never done anything this small before!

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                    • Danalundefined
                      Danal
                      last edited by

                      SMT can be de-soldered one end at a time, With patience and a fine tipped soldering iron.

                      Using a TINY screwdriver to move it up, wedge it up, just the smallest amount as each end is heated in turn. It won't even look like it is moving because the "other" end is still soldered. Eventually, it will pop loose.

                      Re-soldering a new one is relatively easy. One end at a time.

                      And… if you happen to own a "Temperature Controlled" soldering iron (station) already, it may be worth it to you to invest in "Solder Tweezers" that plug into your existing station. Depending on what station you already have, they can be fairly inexpensive. Examples: http://www.ebay.com/bhp/desoldering-tweezers

                      Delta / Kossel printer fanatic

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                      • biscuitladundefined
                        biscuitlad
                        last edited by

                        Ok, brilliant. I'll have a go. There are several resistors of that type on the old board, so I've got a few chances! Many thanks.

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                        • biscuitladundefined
                          biscuitlad
                          last edited by

                          My god, my soldering wouldn't win any prizes but the bugger works! Huzzaah! Had to use an old fly tying vice and a gas powered soldering iron on something about a millimetre square was not pretty. πŸ™‚

                          That was before soldering. Too embarrassed to show you it all afterwards!!

                          Many many thanks for all your help. πŸ™‚

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                          • biscuitladundefined
                            biscuitlad
                            last edited by

                            Ok, despite working if I plug it in to a board that's already switched on, when I turn it on from cold the duet now fails to boot.

                            I can disconnect it and it boots fine, connect it and it works fine. Just can't leave it plugged in if I want to boot…

                            I do hope the answer to this isn't soldering another 330ohm resistor on top of that one. :-0

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                            • dc42undefined
                              dc42 administrators
                              last edited by

                              Check that you used the correct resistor, and that you don't have a solder bridge across the resistor.

                              Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
                              Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
                              http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

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                              • biscuitladundefined
                                biscuitlad
                                last edited by

                                Yes, right resistor (R37). You see the 330 ohm value in the photo. Not sure about the solder bridge.

                                But one other thing, if I boot from just a 5V input (usb), it boots up fine. All the endstops trigger and show hit in the machine properties.
                                –---
                                10 mins later...

                                Mmm, after more testing I'm not quite sure what to think. Could be a weak wifi possibly. I just rebooted with the usb and 15v connected and it's fine and dandy. Repeated it with the usb disconnected and again fails to boot. Plugged it in again and bingo!

                                TBH, if that's all it takes I'll live with that. It's just an OctoPi I use for the camera, so it'll stay on the printer anyway. Be nice to have an explanation though...! πŸ˜‰

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