Heat Chamber Set Up



  • Hi.

    I am trying to set up a chamber heater for my coreXY printer. The issue is that although i have the chamber wire connected to pin 8 (heater 3) when I set the heat temperature to a value, the heat chamber does not turn on. I verified that the pin itself isnt getting pulled low.

    What do you think the issue is? Ive included the code below

    
    ; Communication and general
    M111 S0                             	; Debug off
    M552 S1
    M550 Mr. Green Romax		; Machine name and Netbios name (can be anything you like)
    M551 kukzem430                        	; Machine password (used for FTP)
    ;*** If you have more than one Duet on your network, they must all have different MAC addresses, so change the last digits
    M540 P0xBE:0xEF:0xDE:0xAD:0xFE:0xED 	; MAC Address
    ;*** Wifi Networking
    
    M555 P2                           	; Set output to look like Marlin
    M575 P1 B57600 S1			; Comms parameters for PanelDue
    
    G21                                 	; Work in millimetres
    G90                                	; Send absolute coordinates...
    M83                                 	; ...but relative extruder moves
    
    ; Axis and motor configuration
    M569 P0 S0				; Drive 0 goes forwards
    M569 P1 S0				; Drive 1 goes forwards
    M569 P2 S1				; Drive 2 goes forwards
    M569 P3 S0				; Drive 3 goes forwards
    M569 P4 S0				; Drive 4 goes forwards
    M574 X2 Y2 Z2 S1			; set endstop configuration (all endstops at high end, active high)
    M667 S1
    M350 X16 Y16 E16 I1    			; Set 16x microstepping with interpolation
    M92 X80 Y80 Z80 E837:837				; Set axis steps/mm
    M906 X1200 Y1200 Z1800 E1200 I60		; Set motor currents (mA) and increase idle current to 60%
    M201 X1200 Y1200 z800 E1000		; Accelerations (mm/s^2)
    M203 X20000 Y20000 Z20000 E3600		; Maximum speeds (mm/min)
    M566 X1200 Y1200 Z1200 E1200		; Maximum instant speed changes mm/minute
    
    ; Thermistors
    M305 P0 T100000 B5500 R4700 H0 L0	; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the bed thermistor ADC correction
    M305 P1 T100000 B4725 C7.060000e-8 R4700
    M305 P2 T100000 B4725 C7.060000e-8 R4700
    M305 P3 T100000 B4148 C2.117e-7 R4700
    
    M307 H2 A412 C242.3 D20.9 B0 S0.80;PIbD setting for hot end
    M307 H1 A412 C242.3 D20.9 B0 S0.80;PIbD setting for hot end
    M307 H0 A45.7 C917.2 D32.7 B0 S1 ;PID settting for heat bed
    
    M141 H3 ; heatbed declaration
    M301 H3 P-1 
    
    M570 S180				; Hot end may be a little slow to heat up so allow it 180 seconds
    
    ; Fans
    M106 P1 T45 H2				; disable thermostatic mode for fan 1
    M106 P0 T45 H1
    
    ; Tool definitions
    M563 P0 D0 H1 F1                      	; Define tool 0
    G10 P0 S0 R0                        	; Set tool 0 operating and standby temperatures
    
    ;*** If you have a single-nozzle build, comment the next 2 lines
    M563 P1 D1 H2 F0                 	; Define tool 1
    G10 P1 S0 R0                       	; Set tool 1 operating and standby temperatures
    
    ; Z probe and compensation definition
    ;*** If you have a switch instead of an IR probe, change P1 to P4 in the following M558 command
    M558 P4 X0 Y0 Z0			; Z probe is an IR probe and is not used for homing any axes
    M574 E0 S0
    ;G31 X0 Y0 Z0.83 P500	; Set the zprobe height and threshold (put your own values here)
    G31 X0 Y0 Z3.59 P500
    
    M208 S1 Z-2.2				; set minimum Z
    ;
    T0					; select first hot end
    
    

  • administrators

    Remove the M301 H3 P-1 command. If you want to force bang-bang mode, use M307 to do that instead.



  • Thanks, It seems like this page is incorrect:

    https://duet3d.com/wiki/Connecting_and_configuring_a_chamber_heater



  • One more question, it looks like the three volt rail isnt quite enough voltage to get my SSR to turn on. Is it OK to plug the +v side of the SSR into +5V instead of +3V?


  • administrators

    It probably won't hurt the processor, but I don't advise doing that because it would probably result in a small amount of current flowing into the pin when the SSR is turned off. It would be a little safer if you connect a silicon diode in series with the control input, to drop another 0.6V.

    Are you sure you have the SSR control inputs connected the right way round? Most SSRs works with 3V upwards, so 3.3V should be more than enough.

    I have corrected the wiki page.



  • EDIT: Upon reading the reviews it seems like despite being “rated” at 3v the ssr does not actually work at 3.3v.

    Thanks for the tip about the diode, i think i will go that route for now as i have diodes on hand…


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