Solved: sudden problem with board/motors connection
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Yes, It didn't help at all. Same symptoms.
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Very strange. Is there any visible sign of damage to the X and Y stepper driver chips?
Not homing all the way on a delta typically means that you don't have the XYZ parameters set high enough for your printer in the first G1 S1 command in homedelta.g.
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XYZ parameters are fine, it homed perfectly up until this all started.
I just checked, the board looks perfect. Clean and new.
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New finding, X and Z motors work, if Y is not connected.
But, Y only works if it is the only motor connected. The minute I connect another motor, then Y stops working. If I connect all 3 motors then Z works, X stutters and doesn't move and Y doesn't work at all.Lastly, I changed the connectors on the Y motor to the spring loaded pluggable terminal block(http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Phoenix-Contact/1778858/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsDddcp1dBDJKhPf8Wt%2FPoGWIxxRhPLrJ8%3D) I got from tricklaser, - still same problems.
One more thing - with power on, there are red leds lighted on the X and Z motors, but no led on the Y.
I suspect a hardware problem. This is a brand new board purchased from Filastruder, first time setting up. Is it possible to exchange it?
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It sounds like a power problem to me. Check that the screws in the VIN terminal block are tight, also the screw terminals on the power supply.
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You may be onto something. I had checked the screws were tight, but I do have two V- lines going into the board. I removed the Bed V- and tightened the screw on the single V- and all motors worked and homed properly. But, of course, now I have no heated bed. I'll try putting both V- wires into one of the ferrules and see if that fixes the problem all together.
Btw: the red leds by the motor connections mean - endstops on/off?
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Okay - it is probably a power problem - but it is also a board problem. The power supply terminal block is loose. It wiggles when I try to screw anything into it, or when I touch it with a finger. And by wiggles, I mean twists from side to side when I try to turn the screw.
The Y motor connector block is also loose, which might explain why the Y motor has the most problems.If I turn over the board, the solder pads look okay, but I wonder if there is a broken connection.
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I am not convinced it is a board problem if the problem goes away when the bed heater PSU is disconnected. It's not uncommon for the terminal blocks to feel slightly loose, this is ok as long as they are soldered securely. When tightening the terminal block screws, I hold the terminal block.
Can you explain in what way the Y motor connector is loose?
The endstop LEDs are on when the endstop inputs are connected to ground. Whether this is when the endstops are triggered or not triggered depends on what type of endstop switch you use.
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Additional issues, My extruder motor doesn't work either. It heats up and is tuned okay, but it doesn't turn at all when I click extrude while hot, or when it is cold, and I send M302 P1 for cold extrusion and then G1 E10 F300. Zilch, Nada, Nothing. Like I did with the Y connector, I switched from the supplied connectors to a spring-loaded one to insure a good connection.
My E0 motor is a 2.4v 1.0A Kysan geared stepper.So, I was able to get X,Y&Z to work if after some fiddling with the Power supply terminal block. By fiddling I mean after tightening the wires all the way down - I moved it back and forth (right and left) with a screwdriver and things started working.
But, then I discovered that E0 didn't work at all. More Importantly, E0 does not work if the heated bed power supply is disconnected and only the main one is connected.
The wires in from the power supply are connected as tightly as possible to the terminal block. At the screw points I measure 12.37v. Which is exactly what I measure on the power supply itself.
I'm very frustrated. I even installed 1.17RC3 to see if it would help.
I know the motors work properly, and the wires and connectors are fine, because I tested with an LED per coil pairs.
The Y connector points have slightly more movement up and down than the X and Z points. But, that said, the E0 connector points are firmly attached and E0 isn't working, so the Y connector almost certainly isn't an issue. And, as I said earlier - if I look at the back of the board, all the solder pads look just fine.
As for the end stops, I was just asking because I wasn't sure what all the LEDs do. Should there be an LED for E0? If so, under what circumstances would it light up? Because I've never seen anything light.
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Hi sandy,
I still don't understand how the pins on the Y motor connector can be loose unless they are not soldered on the underside of the board.
The firmware will only drive an extruder motor if that drive is assigned to a tool, and the tool is selected, and either it is at a high enough temperature or you have turned off cold extrusion prevention.
Yes there is an led for the E0 endstop input, and like the others it illuminated when it is pulled down to 0V.
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Yes, I know. See the above posts. I also know about the cold extrusion prevention.
As I said in the previous entry - I don't consider the Y connector a problem. So please ignore it.Right, as stated above, I tested this both with the hot end heated up and selected and with the cold extrusion prevention disabled.
First, I tried with the tool selected - heating first to 190 and then trying to extrude 10, 25, etc – no response. Heating to 220 and trying to extrude 10, 25, etc. No response.Second,
I disabled cold extrusion prevention (see above comments about the M302 P1 command) and tried extrusion - no response.with a 12v power supply measuring 12.3 v in at the V+ V- terminals - I get the following:
Pin 1 on the Z motor connection point: 6.4v,
Pin 1 on the Y motor connection point: 6.1v,
Pin 1 on the X motor connection point: 5.4v
Pin 1 on E0 motor connection point: 6.1v
Pin 1 on the E1 motor connection point: 6.8v - I tested this for reference only, I don't have E1 tool defined.To V+ on the E0 heater: 12.3
Look, these are the same motors and power supplies and everything that was working before I switched to the duet-wifi. The X,Y,Z motors are Wantai 42Byghw811 - 2.5A and the E motor is a Kysan 2.4v 1.0A Kysan I know the connectors are fine - put an LED across each of the paired coils of every motor and spun it - to make sure they were properly connected.
I've spent 4-7 hours per day since the 23rd trying things, testing, searching for answers on the web. (I get a bit obsessed when a puzzle should be solvable and isn't)
I've even tried raising the Voltage coming in from the power supply up to 15V -- ( I didn't try to heat it up - I have a 40v/12 cartridge and I didn't want to risk a melt down, so I just did the cold extrusion test.)
I don't know what else to try. If you think that I am not supplying sufficient power, I'm not sure how to calculate my power requirements for the extruder motor, because I don't know what it's hubbed gear count is, but the Kysan motors are supposed to have lower power requirements than the Wantais and everything worked before.
I do have a 24v power supply I could switch in, but what would that do to my hot end? -
I forgot to say that those measurements were taken several times, with the power turned on, but not connected to the wifi. These measurements are consistent, not averages. Why such a major difference between X and all the others?
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Looking at your config.g file I see that you have only one extruder drive configured on tool 0 yet you have mixing enabled. Try it without enabling mixing.
If you suspect a problem with the E0 motor driver, you could move the motor to E1 (with power off of course) and adjust your M563 command accordingly.
