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    Delta printer - print bed leveling screws

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    • sylvaindcundefined
      sylvaindc
      last edited by

      Ok, this is as n00b as it gets...

      I build a "Large delta" as per the original (2015) design of @dc42. In principle the printer works great (it prints out calibration pieces pretty well 😉 ).

      My final hardware problem is that I cant figure out how to set up a proper printbed.

      Right now, I have the print bed connected directly to the 2060's of the bottom triangle using the following sandwich (on three places):

      • M3 "wire end" (is that English? the screw part of a bolt)
      • M3 Nut
      • 2mm Alu plate
      • 2mm Alu plate
      • 2mm Alu plate
      • M3 Nut (this one and the top one clamp the stack together)
        • Heater (glued to the bottom of the last plate)
      • Cork insulation
      • T nut in the top of the 2060

      This is not ideal as it has the following issues

      • I cannot add a glas plate and can only use a very small part of my build plate because the M3 wire-end and nut stick out above the stack
      • Leveling this thing is a nightmare

      I am sure I should use these nice thumb nuts I have - I have two types:

      • one M3 with a 10mm long thread on the inside (female)
      • one with a 30mm long thread on the outside (male) and a flat head
        And I should just make the sandwich as follows:
      • Countersunk screw
      • 3x Alu plate
      • ???And then???

      For the life of me, I cant figure out how to set it up...
      How to terminate the stack at the bottom in such a way that I can easily level it and that it doesnt move while printing...

      😕

      1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • dc42undefined
        dc42 administrators
        last edited by

        I've never used levelling screws on a delta printer. If the bed is rigidly mounted to the lower frame, it should be level anyway. I use M3 screws with countersunk heads in the 5mm alu plate, then spacers which rest on penny washers sitting on top of the frame.

        Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
        Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
        http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

        sylvaindcundefined Vetiundefined 2 Replies Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • sylvaindcundefined
          sylvaindc @dc42
          last edited by

          @dc42 so you use the standoffs for any final adjustment right? (I find there is at least a few 0.1s of a mm play between loos and tight fit of the top nut)

          clearlynotstefundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • clearlynotstefundefined
            clearlynotstef @sylvaindc
            last edited by

            @sylvaindc you shouldn't need any adjustment, even if it's a few .1s out it'll get calibrated out. Hard mount the bed to the frame and calibrate and you'll be set. The only deltas I've ever seen with a movable bed are complete junk that need it to compensate for a terrible calibration process. From the boards perspective there's not much difference between your bed being slightly off and one endstop being lower by the same distance. Anyone building a delta with duet caliber parts is hard mounting the bed, yes one of the best parts about deltas!

            sylvaindcundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
            • sylvaindcundefined
              sylvaindc @clearlynotstef
              last edited by

              Thanks @clearlynotstef,

              That makes it a lot easier!

              1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • Vetiundefined
                Veti @dc42
                last edited by

                @dc42 said in Delta printer - print bed leveling screws:

                then spacers which rest on penny washers sitting on top of the frame.

                i used nylon spacers for thermal isolation from the frame

                1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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