@mrehorstdmd I remember reading through some post in the reprap forum where i saw your design! I have to say i grew font of it. I can imagine that the linear rails have so little play that having two should be enough for a 3D printer heatbed. The belt system is interesting as well but as i understood without the worm gear with the 30:1 ratio (if i recall correctly) most probably the bed will fall down when powered off. Also, did you had any problems adjusting belt tension? Specifically in case the tension is not the same in both ends, say after many hours of use or belt stretching, maybe a minor misalignment can lead to binding?
Truth is, i did not consider that besides the worm-gear motor assembly in your design i have the hardware to implement the rest for the Z axis, which is very appealing to me. Although i would need to obtain somehow the ball shaped parts for the 3 screw kinematic leveling.
And last, the post explaining the changes you did over the year it is very interesting, thanks for sharing!
@phaedrux said in integrated D-Bot print carriage/cooler fan duct:
Nice work. I had a similar issue with clearance around the lead screws so I used shorter lead screws.
Yeah, that was the obvious solution, but I was hesitant to saw off the tops of my lead screws, and at least from the source I used they had good round numbers that were either too long or not long enough, so cutting would have been required. Anyhow, I really like this solution because the print carriage is very compact and will allow me to use as much of my new expanded build surface (when I get it installed) as I can. I also like how the integrated duct, being integrated, is right along the centerline of the carriage and not hanging off for other reasons, like fast accelerations of the carriage not having as much inertial influence of stuff hanging off the side. I think this is a very clean solution. Thanks for your comment!
If you look at a single layer all around the cylinder. Is it 'out' on one side and 'in' in the opposite side (consistent with a shift on the X/Y plan) or is it 'out' or 'in' all around?
Also what is the vertical pitch between bolded layers, (measure over 10 interval and divide by 10)? Does it match the Z rod lead (which is the vertical distance per one full rotation)?
OpenSCAD difference is probably your best bet. If OpenSCAD won't load it, run it through one of the online repair tools. Even if you've never used OpenSCAD before... it is free, and this use is extremely easy.
You said you can't post the STL on a forum. Or your not sure. I get that. If you are willing to email it to
danal (dot) estes (at) gmail (dot) com
I'll give it a shot, and send you the OpenSCAD program (as well as the resulting "fill" STL).
Diabase Engineering makes a 5 axis 3d printer for printing cylindrical parts, footwear, and other stuff.. It's pretty damn cool! Not practical unless you need it, but it's neat to be able to (like a CNC Mill) print on all sides of an object.
@zapta said in Polycarbonate and line width:
@scottbg1 said in Polycarbonate and line width:
I use Simplify 3D and it only allows to change the width on the first layer.
Try the Extruder tab
With me, it's generally the simplest things are overlooked.
Ask my girlfriend.
@claustro said in Best lead screw - ball bearing mount system:
I can't understand the shaft collar and 15 degree angle bearing. What would be the advantages over thrust bearing and regular ball bearing like I did?
I realize now that your picture above shows the screw and shaft, without the coupler mounted.
A shaft collar:
An angular bearing is very similar to a regular deep groove, but the surfaces the balls contact are at a slight angle. They can take axial load, in one direction, and radial load. They seem to be a specialist bearing only available with tight tolerances and a high price.
Thanks for the insight, I will post results, i'm still a couple weeks away from running, waiting for a new design Bondtech Bmg X2 with direct mosquito mounts. still machining parts for the print carriage
I checked all the diagonals.
The base of the printer is perfect.
The problem is the top square that is off of about 5mm (!)
I still have to check all the 4 sides even if they seems ok.
Can you suggest me a flochart for squaring the frame? Sometimes I have the feeling that I straight some part only for crook a other one.
Received allegedly genuine MGN15 HIWIN rails, and no reason to think they're not. Smooth motion, no binding, no play, hard steel. About the same price as the MGN12 rails from the thingiverse link.
Also tried one of the cloned MGN12 rails which supposedly was okay-ish. No play (chose medium preload). Even after through cleaning and re-lubricating the motion was ever so slightly binding randomly along the length. Hard-ish steel.
Asked a different vendor for recommendation for a cheaper alternative, ended up ordering a samle of a cloned HGH15. No play, a little gritty but smooth motion after a quick clean, only had thin oil, not anything super sticky. Relatively hard steel; Same price range as the genuine MGN15 rail, but two bearing blocks with two rows of balls. Think the CNC will be getting the cloned HGH15 rails for X and Y, and genuine MGN15 for Z. Cloned MGN12 may find use on a printer if replacing the balls and polishing the races results in smooth motion.
To understand the basics, I suggest you take a GCode file generated by your slicer, open it in an editor, and look up each GCode command in one of the pages linked to by @oliof. Slicers don't use many different GCodes.
To understand many of the configuration GCodes used by RepRapFirmware, do the same for the config.g file.
Thank you for the input!
This will in turn drive a screw, so as far as the belt drive go I should only need the 16:40 gear ratio. Into a 2mm pitch screw should give me 4000 steps/mm and optimal layer heights for any multiple of 0.025 which is seemed quite convenient as I'll likely use from 0.1mm and up in 0.05mm steps. (1.8deg steppers x16 microstepping) Well thats wrong, Prusa cal thingy ignores microstepping for optimal z height for screws?! Oh well, different gear ratio it is then..
Found a page with simpler math for working out the center distance from the two pitch diameters and belt length without having to resort to nasty trig functions so will incorporate that
K=4 * L - 6.28 * (D + d)
b=(D - d)^2
c=(a - 32 * b)^0.5
C=(K + c) / 16
I print various brackets that have no real fine detail but need to be tough and so use PETG using 240 deg nozzle temp, 60 deg bed temp (blue tape) and zero fan. 3 walls and 20% gyroid infill and they come out just fine. I reinforce some regions in the part with 90% infill as you can see here
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