Thanks, I will try again.
I used hair-spray and it helped, but I am so glad I haven't seen any cracking or warping issues, and the best part is parts seem to be 100% accurate, a 20x20 cube comes out at exactly 20x20.
That FilamentOne place was fast as hell to get it out to me, ordered Saturday, got it Monday!
I have suspicions it's made by Filimentium, same reel design, and the company used to sell that brand.
Going to re-print my cooling duct since the one I have now is a rough mess- $9 glow in the dark ABS on ebay gets you $9 quality.
Thanks for the information. Extrapolating (yea I know) the line it appears to fall inside but right at the edge of the area. I don't know if it will make any real world difference but I think I'm going to try the SS-01E which is a low force model.
Re Linear Rails
Yes, I have modified my Prusa to linear rails mounted on 3030 extrusion. It has made the printer bed far more stable. Improvement to print quality is minimal but there is a big improvement to repeat-ability. The only calibration I really need to do now on a regular basis, is to level the Z axis.
The original 8mm diameter rails and bearing arrangement is easy to build and probably just about adequate and cost effective for the loads involved but not good engineering practice IMO.
The linear rails do need precise alignment and setting up, but once done, the bed runs smoothly and stays in alignment.
For two aluminum 1/4 inch plates, I am getting a $450 price quote.
The tolerances quoted are not great.
As you can see I have staggered holes to accommodate different geometries.
The real kicker is that if you go up to 25 parts the price goes down from $200 each to $80-$100 each.
It would be great if this could be cost-shared in some way.
@tletourneau said in Need advice on new heated bed aluminium plate:
Does anyone think the additional weight of going with a 14lb (3/8") plate over a 12.2lb (5/16") plate would have a detrimental effect on the Z axis?
BTW I've replied to the other thread that you've started with more or less the same topic.
@vwegert I kind or forgot but I actually made a video of my purge bucket in action. If it's any use, check it out here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNNmZCXErYY&lc=z234cfh4dkylhh4ra04t1aokgl1ownrihxxz0fiwil5xrk0h00410
@wilriker said in Must pulley and idler sizes match?:
@dougal1957 Thanks for confirming.
Just to be totally sure I got it right this time another diagram with a totally crazy and exaggerated belt path. I believe it is still correct, isn't it?
P.S.: Only one of these is supposed to be driven by a motor.
Yes, that's what i was trying to convey.
65 is pretty hot (at least to me it is).
PEI is awesome. Try dropping to 60 or 58.
I got an MK3 recently. Love it. I try PETG recently on the MK3, Love it.
I used it to re-print some parts on my dimond hotend mini kossel Duet Wifi.. Lovin it.
I swear the more extruders, the more problems. lol
And yes I use the same model for both fan and temp. It's a decent model because it has bridges, overhangs, sharp corners and curves.
@john-sinclair203 I'm pretty sure that only the polypropylene inner layer flexes, the aluminum is cut out on both sides. At least that's my understanding of Hylite. https://www.display.3acomposites.com/hylite.html
@genghisnico13 Dang. That's not in my manuscript but it is in the final press file. Must have been introduced in one of the post-layout editing rounds. (Probably when we made all the "open source" vs "open-source" formatting consistent.) Thanks for pointing it out, I'll let my publisher know, maybe we can get it for the second print run.
Can't catch everything. If there's only one typo per chapter, I'll be pretty happy!
Thanks all for the opinions. I've got some work coming up using RAMPs. I was going to build a ramps system for myself at somepoint but need it faster so went for the complete budget system from Orballoprinting.
@mrehorstdmd said in Loctite LB8065 for heater cartridges:
Interesting. I've been using automotive antiseize compound on everything that goes into the heater block and it seems to work OK. I think it is some sort of grease that's loaded with graphite powder because it's black and extremely messy to handle. Is the copper filled stuff any neater?
It's copper in colour but I suspect it has a fair bit of graphite in it because it makes your hands black if you do get it on them. It's about the same consistency as "Pritt Stick" though - almost solid - a bit like wax. The tube works the same way as Pritt Stick - you turn the base which pushes it out of the top. So I kind of wiped the cartridge with it which is easy to do without getting on your hands and it doesn't drip or anything like that. Definitely not as messy as grease.
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