Anycubic Delta (Trigorilla vs Duet Wifi) Wiring and configuration
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Using the wiring diagram above for DuetWifi
Got my board in and I just noticed that the stepper motors have got the right colors on wires but I need to rearrange the red and blue. However so now I am wondering what is truly needed in arrangement because it's a color of a wire not the purpose of the wire. My motor model number is 42HD4027-01
I'll keep researching just thought this would speed me up asking.
Looks like the only other thing is the end stops I have are two wires red and black and your board has three wire input gray yellow and black. Would Black be Black and Red be Yellow? I am not sure what the gray would be for if so. Unless it's (black and black) and (red and gray) I should use? I see that black is ground and gray is I/O and Yellow is 3.3 volts.. I am not sure why it's throwing me off at the moment between gray and yellow though..
Everything else would just be me changing out most of the connectors to work on the board I think.
Looks like all only my temp sensors wont have to change to new connectors
Thanks!
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I found the motor schematic but haven't been able to relate this to the board. Because they talk about A, B, C, D connections vs A1,B1,A2,B2
https://www.terapeak.com/worth/nema-17-stepper-motor-42hd4027-with-1-5a-4000g-cm-56oz-in-4lead-cnc-3d-printer/152169834381/This image in particular.
https://d2ydh70d4b5xgv.cloudfront.net/images/6/e/nema-17-stepper-motor-42hd4027-with-1-5a-4000g-cm-56oz-in-4lead-cnc-3d-printer-99aa9849f2c14607c66c5298cd477e17.jpgI read this but I haven't connected the dots yet…
https://duet3d.com/wiki/Connecting_stepper_motors -
I found this picture would you agree with the comparison? I really do not want to mess up the stepper motors I have.
http://42bots.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/bipolar-stepper-motor-wiring-labels-300x300.png2B = D
2A = C
1A = A
1B = BWhat do you think?
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If you know which order the wires were plugged into the Trigorilla board, the same order should work with the Duet. Otherwise, do the following:
1. With the stepper motor not connected to anything, spin the shaft with your fingers to see how easy it is to turn. Now short 2 wires together and try to spin the shaft again. If it is much harder to spin, those 2 wires are one phase, and the other 2 wires are the other phase. Typically red and blue are one phase, and green and black are the other.
2. Connect the wires of one phase to the 2 pins at one end of the 4-pin Duet motor connector , and the wires of the other phase to the 2 pins at the other end.
HTH David
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Thanks dc42.
Any thoughts on the end stops wiring?
Positive (RED) to your board YELLOW 3.3 Volts?
Negative (Black) to your board (Black) ground? -
If the endstop switches have only 2 wires, they are simple microswitches, and the wires should be connected to the two outer pins of the 3-pin connector - it doesn't matter which way round.
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Thanks again, Gotcha so on your board outer pins Black (GND) and Gray (I/O) then?
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Yes, leaving the 3V3 pin unconnected.
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I was using https://configurator.reprapfirmware.org/ and the z-probe code in config.g file isn't there anymore??
Also not sure what Firmware compatibility: should be used. Maybe I need to reinstall factory and edit manually? It was telling me not to use the file it was for testing only and to come to the above URL.
EDIT:
Oh just saw it wasn't listed under zprobe like before but up higher in the file as
; Endstops
M574 X2 Y2 Z2 S1 ; Define active high microswitches
((((((((M558 P1 X0 Y0 Z0 H10 F120 T2400 ; Set Z probe type to unmodulated, the axes for which it is used and the probe + travel speeds)))))))
G31 P500 X11 Y0 Z2 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 R85 S20 ; Define mesh grid -
Sorry I missed this thread until now. I just upgraded my Anycubic Kossel to Duet electronics a few weeks ago. I also moved to the smart effector/magball/E3D hotend–sounds like you're still using the Anycubic effector? If so, I really recommend replacing the 40mm radial part cooling fan with a 50x15mm radial. Adapters are on thingiverse.
Stepper wire pairs are colored just as dc42 describes. red/blue and green/black.
The 20A power supply Anycubic provided with my kit was insufficient, and I had to move to a 30A meanwell. Seems you're set there.
With the higher print speed that the duet allows, the Anycubic extruder is not strong enough, I find. Trying out different variations on geared extruders, Much improvement, but haven't found a solution I'm entirely happy with.
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Hi. I did the same.
Changed from Trigorilla to Duet Wifi one week ago.Actually i am struggling to get the right settings.
Can you post your configuration for acceleration, speed change…The HW connection was not a problem...
Stefan
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Thanks Gone2Far do you have some links for smart effector/magball/E3D hotend and whatever else you have come up with? My extruder motor type is the same as the XYZ steppers. I was thinking the extruder was a little over sized on the motor. Although they did package different stuff as the years went by on this anycubic so you might have had a different one on your extruder?
Yeah I feel the same ROT I'd like to know more about the motor settings too. So far I know mine is 1.8 degree and it's a 1500ma motor but I am not sure about microstepping settings. I see that 256 is really quiet but x8 256 interpolated is noisier for example. Looks like you can choose calculate steps per mm if you know your microstepping then you need to know your belt type, tooth pitch and pully teeth count. Mine is set at GT2 2mm belt, 2mm pitch and pully is 20 tooth. I think thats right for this delta. Microstepping, Max. instantaneous speed change, Maximum speed, and Acceleration I need to know.
What I am focused on at the moment is when I do the manual calibration and the screen pops up on the web interface to jog down. It doesn't jog down but sideways. It homes ok, and when I hit the buttons to move the thing around on normal control screen it does what I want it to. The menu from auto calibration is asking me about x jogging down rather than Z. So I have no idea the only other thing I can think of is my towers are in a different order in the software vs the actual. Mine are XYZ going counter clock wise. What do you guys got yours doing?
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I suggest x16 microstepping with interpolation which is the default. The interpolation to x256 only works if you select x16 microstepping. Your steps/mm with that motor, belt and pulley with then be 80. For speed I suggest 12000 and for acceleration 3000. For jerk, try 600.
If the head is jogging sideways, that could mean that the version of Duet Web Control you are using is too old for the main firmware version. Try firmware 1.19.2 and Duet Web Control 1.19 or 1.19.3.
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dc42 by jerk do you mean Max. instantaneous speed change? Would the extruder have the same settings? I have the same motor for it as the tower motors.
Thanks BTW!!!!!
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Looks like upgrading firmware to 1.19.2 did the trick. I thought I was upgrading web interface too but it says 1.19 still. So maybe 1.19.3 web interface is part of your beta or alpha? Anyway thanks this is moving me right along
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My steppers are the same for XYZ, and slightly longer for extruder. I think they're rated 1.5/1.7A respectively. I have 1000ma/1200ma set in config.g. Order is also counter-clockwise, X to the left of "front", Y right and Z back. Using the default x16 interpolated and it works great.
The smart effector is one of the main reasons I switched to Duet electronics. The built-in probe works well. In combo with the Duet WiFi, bed leveling issues are a thing of the past. With the 40mm axial fan dc42 suggests, part cooling is marginal for PLA. Dc42, you must print in ABS a lot, I think.
I tried first a Noctua and then a high-CFM 40mm fan; now I've got an adapter and a 50x15 radial fan sticking out the front, but that (hopefully) isn't permanent. Link to the smart effector is on the products page of this website (Duet3D). I bought mine from Filastruder here in the US. Magballs and 288mm arms I got from Ultibots. 288mm is a bit long, but works well. Original arms for the linear plus were 265mm. It's nice to be able to pop the effector loose to clean up the hotend as needed and then just snap it back on. Much less play than the stock arms as well. -
Yeah this thing has trouble with ABS. Gone2Far You say the smart effector comes with a probe? Can I see a picture of it being used on yours. Looks like that smart effector would change the distance of the rod spacing vs the top of rod connected to tower. I'll check into that at some point. Even the bed I got can't seem to hack 90 degrees very well. its 12v. What is your extruder setting? I had asked above about it being the same as towers. I felt like it didn't sound right. Maybe there is a percentage to go by on extruders vs towers?
After I auto calibrate it will not save it and everytime I turn this on I have to recalibrate. How do I get it to save auto calibration?
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OK Important things I need help with. I haven't had a successful print yet.
- How to save calibration. Because I try to make a change an after waiting for heaters to cool down and re-calibrate. So this would save me time. I mean it's cool if you have a probe to wait each time. Seems like i could calibrate it once a day or so, but making the changes it should remember.
New Problem real important.
- How to keep extruder from pushing out too much on infill or not enough on outer part. So hard for me to explain. I am making a box as a test if it prints out the outer bounds of the box just right, it stops for a second before filling the box. Creates a huge blob and gets caught in blob and cant move when it tries. If I pause print clean up and resume it clearly is pushing out the plastic to fast. However I have my extruder speed set at 10mm where as remember it's the same motor type thats used on the towers and they are set at 80mm. So as you can tell they are really going slow and I have no idea how to adjust this.
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See the wiki page on calibrating a delta printer for how to save the calibration results.
Have you calibrated the extruder steps per mm ?
Are you printing from SD card, or over USB?
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Yeah steps per min is at 80mm
Printing from USB a file that worked before on the trigorilla board and this same equipment. I uploaded it to print from the web interface. Also I am using ABS. I'm about to change to PLA and see if that will print better, but it should be able to handle ABS.
It's printing really slow too.A lot slower than I am used to. Before on the old board it always "seemed" like trigorilla overrode the speed parameter from the gcode model file. I wonder if your board is actually using it. It was always set to like 30mm a second. I am not sure though about why it would be so slow.. And again really stumped as to why the extruder would be blobbing it out like that. You know I tried to lower to extruder factor and temperature to try and slow it down and it really doesn't do what it should.
Here is the best ABS print so far and it was supposed to be a box lol I stopped it before it finished and also had paused it to clear up the blob so that is why it's in that shape. Look at the way it's printing the plastic next to itself. That is with some odd adjustments to try and get it to be better. Before it was really really weird.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4nxVsZnC01PSFJGdWNJOW5vUzQ