@dc42 said in Passively heated build chamber on Duet Maestro:
M307 H2 A-1 C-1 D-1 ; disable heater 2, we want to use its output for fan 2
M106 P2 A2 H103 T45:65 ; fan 2 uses logical pin 2, controlled by heater 103, minimum sped at 45C, maximum speed at 65C
Wow. That solution is way to simple. Thanks for your help!
@bearer yup I am sure the wiring is correct .... I spent a lot of pain learning that the Stepper Motors that Creality use on the Extruder are different to the ones they use on the X, Y & Z axis ...
(Looking down on the Extruder Motor);
& Reverse the direction in config
Maybe this is the norm for most Motors ... I have only even used a CR10s.
Thanks for the tip ... I have ordered a new crimp tool, pricey .... but it would have been worth it to save the day I lost troubleshooting this issue, when I bent the pin on the new cable I was using to troubleshoot.
Thanks for all your help
I checked the temp on the SD Card and at startup it was 23c and only got as high as 29c after about 10 minutes of idling. I got this with my IR temp gun and a thermocouple. I also did a sweep of the board with the IR gun and got a hot spot around 52c to the right of the Atmel and below the PWM fan connectors (with board oriented VIN on the right). With it being an IR gun, I can't really narrow it down much more. I also did a sweep of the Duex5 and nothing really spiked but I can get more specific notes if that would help.
@bearer Yeah, I have a presentation to write right now but I'll do a full test, connecting the board to my Voron. If the processor is alive, it's a great thing already. I'll start replacing U2 (no pun intended).
I appreciate that contacts can weld, and to mitigate that a little I will fuse before the contacts. Part of the reason of doing this on the DC side is to remove the need for a second (/3rd, v0.6 have nosiey 5VDC regs) power supply and not loose the fans on fault trip.
On my static machines I will have a dedicated power supply, will switch on the AC side, and will consider a crowbar on them. Thanks.
@georgem said in Solved-First time setup. Cant get steppers working properly:
It actually was wired correctly. What I found is that when I was switching X and Y one of the pins for Y had pulled loose. Once I reconnected that I was able to get them operating correctly.
This is my first post here. How do I edit the title to show it is solved?
Click on Topic Tools and select Ask As Question. Then click on Topic Tools again and you will see a new option Mark As Solved.
@dugee said in Maestro not connecting to DWC or via USB:
@dc42 , I can't see any damage on or around U3, but I've plugged it in again to check connectivity and whilst it is still unresponsive, U10 gets very hot to touch after about 1-2 seconds of USB power. Everything else looks OK and nothing else seems to be reacting strangely.
U10 is the Ethernet interface chip. If it is getting very hot, that indicates it is damaged. My guess is that U3 has failed and subjected it to excess voltage. If your board was still under warranty on 29 July when you reported the problem, please ask your supplier to replace it under warranty.
Cable voltage ratings are usually related to the insulation properties; you do not want to use a cable that is not rated for mains voltage for your mains voltage heater, especially not in non stationary installation.
@deler said in Bed heater PID:
@dc42 said in Bed heater PID:
@deler said in Bed heater PID:
Another question came to my mind, do I need to do any PID tuning? if yes how can I do that?
Yes. Look up M303 on that same GCode wiki page.
after the tunning, I got the following results
Heater 0 model: gain 207.8, time constant 143.4, dead time 4.4, max PWM 1.00, calibration voltage 12.2, mode PID, inverted no, frequency default
also, I got a warning: heater 0 appears to be over-powered. if left on at full power, its temperature is predicted to reach 232c.
is it normal?
Yes. Head the warning and don't leave the printer unattended for lengthy periods of time. In the unlikely event that a Mosfet or your SSR failed closed, then your bed could reach a temperature of 232 deg C.
If you are concerened, then you can either use a lower powered heater or fit a thermal cut out switch.
I run a raspi 3B+ and a 2004 LCD on the +5VFSB and have LED lights on the 5V leg of my ATX when it power up as printer lighting. Ikea Jansjo
i think they are 0.3W each. i like that they are semi-rigid flexi and i can 'aim' them at thigns.
I will admit that occasionally I get an odd fluctuation in temp readings, not sure if its a wiring issue or PSU issue.
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