@dc42 said in Z Probe - Omron PNP inductive sensor:
Do you have any deployprobe.g or retractprobe.g files that you didn't create yourself? If so, delete them.
One question related to that. Printer works very good and new 7" PanelDue works perfect.
Console gives every print error (web control and paneldue):
Warning: Macro file deployprobe.g not found.
Warning: Macro file rectractprobe.g not found.
Print goes ok, but want that warning pop-ups disappier. Can i modify config or some file that kind not get that errors with that two files what i deleted.
If you're using the piezo as endstop, then don't use the Z endstop.
M574 X2 Y2 S0 ; Set active low endstops
This is configured for a PrecisionsPiezo v2 board, I'm pretty sure that any of their other products would be similar, though you might choose different height/speed.
; Z Probe
M558 P8 H8 F780 I1 T9000 R0.8 Z1 ; Set Z probe type to unmodulated and the dive height + speeds
I see that the Z1 parameter is now marked as obsolete.
P8 sets the piezo as unfiltered, and is somewhat better than P1
H8 sets the dive height. I wanted a bit more so that I could use really low accel and reach the higher speed when I was debugging.
F780 was to get 13mm/s. this is faster than needed, and was set that way for debugging when I was dialling things in (The example is from an older backup of my config.g file.)
I1 to invert the signal,
T for travel speed. I guess I just wanted "as fast as the axes were defined."
and R for a delay to let the printer settle and avoid false triggers.
@papilio said in PWM possible for AC Aquarium pump?:
Just wondering @sigxcpu ... I was looking through posts and found
Is your PWM for the pump at the suggested ~F25500?
The 12V one is
M106 P0 F20000 L60 B0 C"cool"
The 24V one is... the same. I think this is just copy/paste, didn't bother to adjust them properly, considering that they are used on different voltages.
I have attached some pictures with the setup (the hose is a very soft silicone one from an aquarium pump). I've put a reverse diode on both motors right on their pins, just in case. The 24V one runs on a Duet 1.01 with no diodes on board, anyway.
I use small DC-DC converters in my printer to drop the 24V to 12V to power LED strips, but I don't try to control brightness with the firmware. I just set the output voltage on the DC-DC converter to get the brightness I want from the LEDs (usually I set it to 12V for 12V LED strips because I usually just want maximum brightness.
Small DC-DC converters (called buck converters) are about the size of a postage stamp and cost about $1-2 each when you buy a 6 or 8 pack. The converters have adjustable output voltage so you can use them for powering all sorts of things including fans, etc. You can find a lot of surplus 12V fans in old electronic junk but 24V fans are a lot less common.
I just replaced the failed 30 mm hot-end fan in my printer (are they all junk?) with a 40mm server fan and put the DC-DC converter in the cable that plugs into the Duet board. I don't control its speed- just turn it on full blast when the hot end reaches 45C.
A temp of 2000 usually means nothing is hooked up to it.
Check all connections (and wire crimps).
Make sure you have a thermistor and not a thermocouple if they are from E3D. They look the same except for the length of wire.
When all else fails swap the bed and hot end thermistor connections and see if the temps follow along. If they do then its wiring or a bad thermistor.
Thanks for all the help. My cables will arrive tomorrow.
Has anyone determined if the Ender display can support the second SD card? And what may be lacking to add it? Just curious if a full size SD card is possible to add.
So after some more tinkering, here are the steps used to use the Raspberry Pi 3's Wifi to connect a Duet 2 Ethernet to a network.
Start with 2017-07-05-raspbian-jessie-lite (I read that with stretch it may not work or be harder... I used what was recommended here https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=132674
Get Wifi setup by placing a template wpa_supplicant.conf on the /boot as well as an empty file called "ssh" to enable the SSH server for headless setup (Details on how to do this in the link above).
I use Bitvise SSH to connect to the RPI3.
I opted to use a spare Alfa AWUS052NH high power diversity USB WiFi since I have two of them laying around. This creates a wlan0 and wlan1 but sometimes they get switched around. To keep each device with the same wlanX name I used the instruction on these link https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/24318/how-do-i-stop-two-wireless-dongles-switching-between-wlan0-and-wlan1 I think this still only applies to Jessie and may not work with Raspbian Strech. Skip this is you are only using the RPI3's internal Wifi.
Next setup a static IP for eth0 interface "sudo nano /etc/network/interfaces" and paste this. Make sure to comment out #iface eth0 inet manual
#iface eth0 inet manual
iface eth0 inet static
update packages and install dnsmasq:
sudo apt-get update"
sudo apt-get install dnsmasq -y
Copy and save the original dnsmasq.conf
sudo mv /etc/dnsmasq.conf /etc/dnsmasq.conf.orig
Configure the new dnsmasq.conf
sudo nano /etc/dnsmasq.conf and paste the following:
interface=eth0 # Use interface eth0
listen-address=192.168.1.1 # Explicitly specify the address to listen on
bind-interfaces # Bind the interface to make sure we aren't sending thingselsewhere
server=220.127.116.11 # Forward DNS requests to Google DNS
domain-needed # Don't forward short names
bogus-priv # Never forward addresses in the non-routed address spaces.
dhcp-range=192.168.1.50,192.168.1.150,12h # Assign IP addresses between 172.24.1.50 and 172.24.1.150 with a 12 hour lease time
Enable IPv4 forwarding:
sudo nano /etc/sysctl.conf and uncomment the line net.ipv4.ip_forward=1
Setup IP tables. I used wlan1 for the USB Wifi dongle and my Duet will be setup with a static IP of 192.168.1.50 which will be setup in config.g on the Duet 2.
sudo iptables -t nat -A POSTROUTING -o wlan1 -j MASQUERADE
sudo iptables -A PREROUTING -t nat -i eth0 -p tcp --dport 80 -j DNAT --to-destination 192.168.1.50:80
Configure it to load on reboot by first saving it to a file:
sudo sh -c "iptables-save > /etc/iptables.ipv4.nat"
Then create a 'hook' file with a line to restore the ip tables on boot and add the following line:
iptables-restore < /etc/iptables.ipv4.nat
After a reboot you should automatically connect to your wifi and, assuming it has internet access, anything plugged into your Pi's ethernet port will have internet access as well.
You may also want to change some settings using sudo raspi-config and change user pi default password, change the hostname and expand the file system.
@mikeb ALL FIXED NOW. i fixed numbering of heaters and thermisters. the configurator had it all messed up. never did that before. was same config as before. guess update changed something. THANKS FOR ALL HELP EVERYONE.
Ok, have found a problem. I have 5V FAN1, FAN2 and always-on fan + 24V brushless air pump. So I need to change V_FAN to 24V and use a convertor for my 5V fans or find source of 5V because(as I assume) of flyback diode.
Connecting a fan the wrong way round may have blown the MOSFET controlling any controlled fan output that you connected it to, and the 1A fuse if you connected it to an always on output. So with power off use a multimeter to check for continuity across the fuse, from the fuse to the VIN side of the fan voltage selector jumper block, and from the centre pin of that block to the positive (V_FAN) pin of the fan output.
Stall detection homing is at best reproducible to within +/- 1 full step. At 80 steps/mm that's 0.2mm, which would be a small but noticeable layer shift. I was surprised that Prusa chose to implement sensorless homing at the same time as rehome-after-stall and power panic.
In general, when probing you tell the firmware where you want to probe, then it uses the declared XY probe offsets to put the probe where you specified, not the nozzle. The exception is a plain G30 or G30 S-1 move, which probes wherever the head currently is.
When using a Z probe to home Z, it is best to probe at the centre of the bed, because any print do is likely to use that area of the bed.
It's already isolated to the heater circuit. Either the heater isn't getting hot or the temperature sensor is giving false readings or less likely, both.
Inspect the wiring to the heater and temperature sensor, including connectors/screw terminals. Make sure the heater and sensor are solidly coupled to the heater block. Check power supply voltage with the heater on and off- it should not change more than 0.1V or so). Sometimes a cable will become intermittent due to flexing too much, especially if you bend the cables in a tight radius using a drag chain. Check the resistance of the heater and the sensor at the controller end of the cable. When you check the resistance, flex the cables back and forth- the resistance should not change.
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