@zerspaner_gerd your sensors look nice, but I would check that someone has already written a blog about how to connect it to arduino at least. Some vendors sell sensors where you have to pay much for the data cable or software to access the data.
You could check how the filament sensor is implemented to see which ports are possible, also. This sensor is implemented as M591, maybe a watercooling sensor can be implemented in firmware also.
@hagenland said in Anycubic linear plus duet Wi-Fi conversion:
I’ve opened the power adapter up and going to use insulated crimp ring connector to the power supply, and the ferrules that came with the kit.
Decided to do it properly, and ordered 12awg wire for the job as well.
As for Z 5.3, etc.
What is the physical offset of the probe to the nozzle in the Z direction?
G31 is telling the printer this is 2.02. Is it really? At the moment the probe triggers (like with your finger), what is the EXACT Z dimension to the tip of the nozzle, as compared to the probe?
@adras Just to be nitpicking: in your diagram you wired the weaker 10A PSU to the bed instead of how you described it in your first post where the more powerful 12A PSU was powering the heater. Did you change that intentionally or did it just slip?
When I tried heater 3 the first time I was still using I1 instead of I0, so I tested this again and I was able to get it working with heater 3 and PWM1
I tried heater 7 and PWM5 again, that still isn't working. I may test some of the other configurations just to see if this is isolated to that connector, but I don't have any plans to use heater 3, so I might just call it good as long as everything is working.
C87 is connected between one of the Z motor outputs and ground. Its purpose is to help protect the Z driver if the motor is disconnected when under load, and to reduce EMI. Revisions 1.0 and 1.01 of the Duet WiFi didn't have those capacitors.
If you want to replace it, it is a 1nF X5R or X7R 0603 ceramic capacitor rated 50V or greater.
Okay so finally got around to starting to get this fixed.
I bought some towing electrics 13 core wire, very thick and heavy as Doug pointed out, but quite flexible and quite cheap too £5/meter.
However I also bought some 7 core signal wire hoping it would be a little less massive, it was but less flexible £4/meter.
So I stripped the insulation off both, quite a lot of the mass resides in the insulation, especially on the 13 core cable, and set about working out what I would need in order to cover all bases, current and, as best as I can determine, projected requirements.
In the end I have made a 17 core wiring loom.
I have used the larger 2.5mm sq wire for the hotend heater, 7 amps is more than I will need at 24v (2A suffices) but then if in future heater cartridges get much more powerful, or for some unfathomable reason I go back to 12v, or I possibly consider the positive wire common, and run two negatives for dual hotends then I'm covered).
I have used larger than necessary (0.65, 0.75 mm sq wire) for some of the connections as, firstly I have it in hand, but mainly as it is well insulated, strong and flexible.
I am not currently using a filament monitor, but I have done in the past, and still have one so I have that covered. The hotend fan is not currently used, as this machine has water cooling, but I might go back to an air-cooled system later, so I have that covered too. Also I have a second thermistor which is attached to the water block, so I can directly see how effective the watercooling is. But it is a lot of cable. Here's what it looks like:
I might not need all 2 meters, but it weighs around 400g, which is not as much as I expected, and it will have keychain retractors to hold much of the weight off the effector, but it is going to contribute to lateral inertia on XY moves.
Now to get it installed. All I will say is that I can see why Canbus is quite popular these days, the idea of replacing all of this with 2 decent sized power wires, and two data cables potentially, is very appealing.
You can configure motor stall detection to pause the print, see the M915 command in the GCodes wiki page. Then you could reduce the speed before you resume it. Not automatic, but it would go some way towards what you want to achieve.
Timothyz is spot on. Step/Dir is the interface to external drivers. The section in the WiKi is short because the interface is simple, and "just works".
He is also correct that the built in drivers are likely better, AND the firmware has SPI access to them, so it can set current, detect faults, etc.
Can you link to the motors, and particularly the drivers, so we can look at them in more detial?
Commanding movement to the drivers won't work unless you can specify both speed and acceleration, because the movement of the axes and the extruder all need to be synchronised. This generally means that one of the drivers will be moving at full acceleration but the other won't be.
I guess you could use the built-in homing function by changing the homing file to temporarily map the axis being homed to a non-existent driver, using M42 to send the homing signal, then commanding the homing move. If you connect the "homed" signal from the driver to the endstop input, then the Duet will know when the axis is homed.
It sounds to me that the processor has been damaged. The symptoms you describe (overheating processor and L7 failed) suggest there was a short between the VSSA side of a thermistor connection, and a heater or fan wire. I've heard of this happening a number of times on Duet 06 and 085 boards. That's why we added protection to the VSSA line on the Duet WiFi/Ethernet.
If you just want to use the E1 motor output to drive the Z motor in place of of the Z motor output, all you need is M584 X0 Y1 Z4 E3 in config.g. Put it before any M350 or M906 commands. Also, if you have a M569 P3 line in config.g, change P3 to P5 in that line.
As I said "in the order you create them". Wouldn't it be less error prone if the endstops inputs are assigned based on the actually used drivers? Because that was my mistake... I already had axis X, Y, Z and dummy U for slave Y and tried "inserting" W before U in M584 and gantry squaring stopped working!
I fixed it by swapping completely the mapping for axis U and W while I should have just moved the endstop for axis U! Doesn't come "naturally", really!
What is the specification of the Z stepper motors on the CR10? If they are low current high inductance motors, they may need to be connected in parallel instead of in series (the Za and Zb motor connectors are wired in series).
Last time I used much in the RC world it was racing model cars when it was still 27mhz and brushed DC motors!
Thinking on it that was about 22 years ago! Did have a car project with 4 mini bldc motors but it got shelved when a full sized car project came along. I'll remember your comments though as that would have caught me out!
Hmmm... they are not quite a cheap as I remembered, about $40 to $45 through several channels. I guess I'm remembering "cheap when compared to $300" or whatever.
Anyway, these work REALLY well for me, on a very broad variety of connectors:
The photo is a bit out of focus so it's hard to tell, however it looks to me that TR5 has an indentation towards its right hand side which is typical of a blown mosfet. I can't tell whether the others have or not. If you are using a phone camera, try holding the phone a little further away to get the mosfets in focus, then use zoom.
Are they ordinary brushless DC fans, or some other type? Have they ever been connected to the fan outputs with the wrong polarity?
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