Is it possible to put MPZ2012S221AT000 instead of BRL3225T1R0M on the board at 1.02? There is a suspicion that the inductance does not work, but the BRL3225T1R0M is not available in stores. Analogues in the same building could not find
Thanks in advance!
@agniusm said in Creality CR-10 upgrade:
I know my grid is set wrong as it misses some points(skips them). Would that cause an issue?
Any probe points that cannot be reached by the probe (taking into account the machine limits set by M208 and the Z probe offsets set by the G31 X and Y parameters) will be skipped.
P.S. perhaps the tool to calculate mesh grid appeared for square build plates? That would be handy. or is there any plans on automatic calculation of the mesh? Say you enter how many grid points on x and y and it sets spacing? Would be even better.
Good idea, I'll add it to the work list.
@underdonesushi said in Motor idle noise ?:
The Aliexpress stepper motor wasn't attached to the printer, it was just set up on the table and it makes the noise.
What I found in my tests it makes a lot of difference if and how the motor is attached. So testing the stepper on the table and optimizing it there will probably lead to you having to do the same tuning again after mounting the motor. Basically every change in motor setup will have an influence e.g. on the weekend I change my Z motors from wired in series to wired in parallel and I had to find a new TOFF value to make them silent in idle again.
See Reducing Stand-Still Noise for a guide on how to tune this.
Yes it should be possible to use a spare CONN_LCD pin for CS.
On the Maestro we don't level shift the SD card pins. The 5V to 3.3V level shifters work OK with 3.3V inputs, and the RepRapDiscount schematic shows that there is no level shifter coming the other way for the MISO signal.
@kamacuras said in Recommended wire to use with supplied Ferrules:
They will fit into the clamp on the board?
The terminals on the board can take very large ferrules. I am stuffing Twin-2.5mm² ferrules in there. This is about 12 or 11 AWG. And I guess it could even take 10 AWG ferrules. I would not try to go any higher though.
Something probably got loose when you last touched the 3D printer. There may have been no correlation to the firmware upgrade. You may have thought the upgrade caused it because it happened around the same time.
If you wriggled the cable and it shows up, most likely you keep wiggling until find the location of the intermittent connection. Most likely cause is due to a bad crimp in the connector of the PT100 sensor. I know the E3D style of sensor is very prone to breakage. It is only a single wire that is crimped to a contact. I ended up soldering the wire to longer set of stranded wire and shrink sleeve over the connection. I then zip tied the leads to make sure any bending does not flex the connection.
I had to recrimp new contacts three times until I used the method above. The single strand of wire breaks too easily when its directly crimped to the contacts. There is no stress relief for the single wire at the crimp location. Any movement of the wire would stress the crimp until the wire breaks.
How hot are the motors getting? if you really are running them at 3A and they are rated for only 1.3A then they will get extremely hot quite quickly. If they don't, then the motor specification must be wrong. You could measure the resistance of a winding using a multimeter and compare it to the value on the data sheet.
@sparkymark79 said in Cannot get the print fan to come on:
M106 P0 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
You have both fans set to thermostatic control.
Our intention is that you use Fan 0 for the print cooling fan and Fan 1 for the heatsink fan. This is easiest to set up in firmware, and is how the firmware uses the fans by default.
All for attempting to help. I have decided to send it back and let Filiastruder determine what if ant thing is wrong with this board. Contrary to the opinion on here the board is defective and time will tell if I am right or wrong.
Yes you can use a 3A fuse, but obviously it won't protect the PCB traces form shorts in the fan wiring as well as a 1A or 2A fuse would. You should find 2A fuses readily available on eBay. The 1A fuses are a little less common.
I know this is an old topic... but I managed to blow the F2 fuse today. I connected one of the pwm fan connections to a proto board via the pins so I could use it to connect some LED's separately with a soldered connection to the proto board and not have to solder on the duet wifi. I noticed that the fans stopped working after that. I checked continuity with all the pins prior and there were no shorts but i must have missed something that caused it to short. That is my guess, but it was directly related to connecting a pwm fan connection to a proto board that just has other pins soldered onto it in a series.