@irondesk40 said in reprapfirmware congig tool:
Has been some time since i have been able to work on this. have been working in Dominican Republic to relocate some of our equipment, but now back at starting on this. I took a look at the config tool page and it did not show a option for setting up a x,y,z axis type machine with a extruder . Which option should you choose, or is it considered a custom setup? Thanks
Unless your machine is one of the few models listed, choose Custom.
@voodoobane Yes, this post was actually one of the reasons I started to look into the Duet boards.
As funny as it is, I can contest... It not B.S.
I think this is an excellent selling tool. Funny and true
@wnica said in Control motors with rated current higher than Duet Max Current?:
Is it possible to drive a larger stepper motor (a Nema 24 with 3.5A/Phase rated current in my case), with the onboard stepper drivers?
I don't really want to risk to blow my driver when connecting the motor... I don't want to drive the steppers with the full 3.5A, about 2A (<duet rating) would be sufficient.
So can the drives handle a motor with a rated current higher than the capabilities of the drive? I'd say yes, but asking just to be sure.
It's safe unless the inductance of the motors is very low. Do you have a specification of the motors?
@gnydick said in Crimping tool?:
the main problem I was having with my iwiss set is that the jaws are so wide, I couldn't wrangle the little parts together because I couldn't see what I was doing. That kit with all of the interchangeable jaws looks like it'd have the same issue.
the jaws need to be that wide though, they are as wide as the crimps are
if you want to cheat, try this
strip the wire to the right length
put the wire into the crimp
using your fingernails, squeeze the insulating end of the crimp so that it is gripping the insulation
now when you insert the crimp into the crimper, the wire won't move around, making it easy
another tip is that some crimps come on reels, you might be inclined to clip it off of the reel first. DON'T! Cut the reel but keep that little tab attached to the crimp while you crimp, then cut off the tab.
and finally, do not: insert crimp into crimper, squeeze crimper half way, insert wire. Because that's how you end up not being able to see anything.
Just to update the status in case someone comes across this post. I'm installing the bl touch now, which should work just fine, but to prove I'm not crazy I hooked the x5sa board up one more time just to make sure it wasn't my imagination, you can see a video of the results here:
You'll notice the duet board does respond to metal just fine, but even if I run the sensor into the plastic + aluminum bed, it won't trigger. Then I switch back to the x5sa board, and you'll see there's somewhat acceptable clearance in the same situation. Both tests had an unheated bed, running off 12v, on the same xy of the build plate.
I have no idea what's going on, but I'm tired of trying to chase down the blackmagic going on here, so I'm installing the bltouch and setting that up per the guidelines in the duet wiki. If anyone has any idea what's going on though I'd be edger to learn.
@dc42 said in duet wifi, endstop issue:
I agree, it's safest to re-crimp those wires.
Do the hot end heater wires run parallel to the endstop wires over part of their length?
No. The hot end wires don't even cross the endstop (or vertical axis stepper) wires.
Dude you just saved my duet.
Checked the wires and indeed 2 wires had a bad crimp.
Crimped them again and now it works!.
Thank you, stupid me forgot to swap out the wire from the driver to my connector on the back of my electronics box.
Well, I'm still none the wiser.
I pulled out all the wires going to the hotend assembly, visually inspected them, to see nothing amiss and put them back in place.
Added the reset-able fuse mod to the motherboard, and have successfully completed a couple prints (totalling ~3.5hrs) with no issue.
I guess I'll just wait and see what happens.
As @Phaedrux says. Command M584 E4 will do what you want. It must come earlier in config,g than your M906 and M350 commands.
If you are sure that the E0 driver burnout wasn't your fault, ask your supplier to replace the Duet if it is within warranty.
(The only reason to have the switches as normally closed is prevent movement if there is a loose connection. With normally closed switches that would trigger immediately, while normally opened would never trigger. However that may be reason enough to change, IDK.)
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