Heater fault. replacement of PT100 and heater cartrudge did not help
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it shows 3.6 Ohm… i also found that wire next to cartridge "entrance" was naked. probably i touched it for a moment and that was sufficient for track to burn. i'm very happy that board is alive!
now i have put some capton tape around and it should be fine.by the way, is there any protection from short circuit?
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The Smart Effector is not protected against short circuit. The latest Duets have a fuse in the VIN supply to the fans, however it won't necessarily stop the fan mosfet from blowing if you get a short in a fan circuit.
The power supplies used in 3D printers are invariably short circuit protected, however that doesn't stop then supplying enough current to burn out PCB traces.
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@dc42 said in Heater fault. replacement of PT100 and heater cartrudge did not help:
The Smart Effector is not protected against short circuit. The latest Duets have a fuse in the VIN supply to the fans, however it won't necessarily stop the fan mosfet from blowing if you get a short in a fan circuit.
now i have upgraded power supply to 24v-14amps mean-well. fans and heating cartridge were upgraded by 24v version too.
after that i successfully run M303 H1 P1 S200 and stored results by M500.it still gives me heater fault in the middle of the print.
I run 2.0(RTOS)RC2b (2018-05-13b3)
(in fact firmware upgrade to rtos did not help eitherfor the test i also connected heating element directly to the board, bypassing smarteffector .
what parameters i can measure on the board to find faulty element. can it be clock or mosfet failure ???
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Hi, in the photo I noticed that I see metal washers under the lock nuts. Should be nylon washers to prevent damage to the traces and possible shorts.
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@quadcells said in Heater fault. replacement of PT100 and heater cartrudge did not help:
Hi, in the photo I noticed that I see metal washers under the lock nuts. Should be nylon washers to prevent damage to the traces and possible shorts.
There are clear areas around the 6 mounting holes for the ball studs so normal size metal washers are OK there. If the 3 additional mounting holes are used for any purpose, then nylon washers are needed at those locations.
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@dc42 please let me know what i can measure on the board to fix it... i do not feel it is right to buy a new one without fixing attempts???
can i send you board for repair???thanks!
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@c310 said in Heater fault. replacement of PT100 and heater cartrudge did not help:
@dc42 please let me know what i can measure on the board to fix it... i do not feel it is right to buy a new one without fixing attempts???
can i send you board for repair???thanks!
I've lost track: what is it that you need to fix?
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@dc42, sorry, thanks for the clarification.
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@dc42 said in Heater fault. replacement of PT100 and heater cartrudge did not help:
I've lost track: what is it that you need to fix?
well, i'm trying to resolve heater fault issue. i was changing components one by one, but it did not help.
as of now i have upgraded PSU to meanwell 24v 14a, replaced fans and heater cartridge to 24v , new PT-100
basically everything is new and 24v (was 12v). new heating element was successfully calibrated via M303I run 2.0(RTOS)RC2b (2018-05-13b3)
(in fact firmware upgrade to rtos did not help either)system still produces heater fault error (temperature was rising slowly than 0.3 deg per sec )
from the side it looks like heating element lost power (at some point temperature start falling down very slowly and )
question: what i can measure on the board to fix it... i do not feel it is right to buy a new one without fixing attempts???
can i send you board for repair???many thanks in advance !
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@c310 You mentioned "from the side it looks like heating element lost power" If you see the heater LED on the smart effector go out it likely points to a bad crimp on the smart effector cable connection. Wiggle the cable the next time you see this, or simply redo the crimp connection.
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@ayudtee said in Heater fault. replacement of PT100 and heater cartrudge did not help:
ooks like heating element lost power"
to avoid such a situation i wired heater directly to the board..