Smart effector for delta printers

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  Guide for posting requests for help
  • T3P3Tony  

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  SOLVED (need help!) Error: G30: Z probe 0 not found
  • 7ambrion  

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  feil was here: M558 P8 R0.4 F1200 H10 T6000 must be like this: M558 C"zprobe.in" P8 R0.4 F1200 H10 T6000 thanks to dc42, he gave a anser at another forum
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  Quick Nozzle swap
  • justus2342  

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  The easiest way to make wiring swappable is to add a connector between the terminals and the wired device. That way you leave a pig tail connected to the board and one to the tooling. Then you just disconnect that quick connector. There are lots of options for connectors out there but pick one that has all the needed pins which is probably just 4 in this case, 2 for the thermistor and two for the heater wires. That is one advantage of using the PT1000, PT100, or thermistors for temperature sensors, is that the wire type doesn't matter, unlike thermocouples where you need the connectors to be the correct metals or you will get cold junction transition errors in your measurement.
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  UNSOLVED Smart effector flashes 7 times repeatedly.
  • Tinywookie  

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  kk, thanks.
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  SOLVED Smart effector led randomly trigger
  • 3dservice  

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  Thats good to hear, glad you are back up and running.
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  My little Spring hack for BerdAir on Smart Effector
  • janjoh  

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  @felt342 The normal 540-size brushed 24V. If i had more money I'd try a Kamover KVP8. If I had even MORE moneis i would try an airbrush compressor with a servo valve
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  Smart effector 2.0 vs. 1.3 ?
  • crpalmer  

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  Thanks for the detailed reply. And I'm glad to hear that it sounds like 1.3 will be fine for me (e3d fan + 24v 30W heater).
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  Heat Creep
  • beanman1  

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  Start with 1mm of retraction and see if there is an improvement. You can use firmware retraction so that you can modify it on the fly during a print. This is useful for the tuning phase since you don't have to rely on the slicer and reslice the whole file again to change the retraction. https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/6181/tuning-macros-menus-accel-jerk-retraction-pressure-advance?_=1592332339385 These macros may help in your tuning.
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  Smart effector hotend fault 315c
  • Elvis0z  

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  @Elvis0z said in Smart effector hotend fault 315c: @dc42 Just put another sensor in to see what happened and I get this error M305 P1 x200 Failed to initialise RTD bad response from the sensor. If you change the sensor to a thermistor you'll need to change the configuration as well. M305 P1 x200 is for a PT100.
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  Smart Effector - can I cut out the middle of the PCB?
  • Kodachrome  

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  @bearer - Well yeah maybe, but that's also the reason for asking, the Smart Effector's central probing angle would make it much less likely to suffer effector tilt. Like.. people with dual nozzles still need to probe their beds one way or another. This only matters when probing anyhow, "triggering" when printing wont do anything.
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  SOLVED magnetic PEI sheet - will it interfere with smarteffector?
  • c310  

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  a little late to the party; in theory motion in the x/y plane might let the magnets induce a voltage in the strain gauge which is a coil in that respect. motion in the z axis will have a much less effect. so if you suspect inaccuracies as a result of the magnets, then just probe slower (which will hep with accuracy in itself regardless of magnets and theoretical coils)
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  Smart Effector power loss
  smart effector resistor • • teamfox20  

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  @dc42 Sorry, its the part cooling fans that keep turning on and off as the LED's turn off and on.
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  SOLVED Destroyed inductor L1
  • uvarovkv  

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  David, many thanks for such a rapid response!
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  Smart Effector but bigger
  • Anon1337  

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  If at all possible, I would proto different board thicknesses. You MIGHT also need to slightly change the code in attiny to account for scaling effects in the tri/spiral strain gauge.
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  Smart Effector Will Not Z-Probe detect
  smart effector • • CoolioX  

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  Thanks. I was mostly interested in whether all pins of the 8-pin connector had been soldered (they have), and whether both sides of inductor L1 were soldered down (which is hard to tell from your photo, but unlikely not to be).
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  SOLVED urgen help needed: smarteffector lost sensivity insome areas
  • c310  

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  @dc42 thanks, will re-wire power to smarteffector...
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  SOLVED E3D SuperVolcano on SmartEffector?
  • Nxt-1  

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  @bberger Here we go, a video of my Deltex V1 in full action. Youtube
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  Water cooling on the Smart Effector.
  • Mike  

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  @Mike what size is the RC water jacket? because I have bought one but is 1mm to small to accomodate the E3D radiator. is your E3D aluminium radiator custom made ? thx!
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  Duet wifi 2 reset when trying to home printer w smart effector
  • chris  

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  re uploading replicator configuration seemed to have solved it but not sure why in first place
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  Delta - First layer issues
  • banana_waffles  

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  @banana_waffles You can also run G32 before the G29 to set the z=0. Just what ever method you chose, make sure you do it the same way each time. It was a change some time after 2.02 they added that warning. https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Using_mesh_bed_compensation#Section_Establish_a_Z_0_datum_using_the_Z_probe From my understanding the idea is that before the mesh starts Z=0 needs to be established by some method. The three that I understand are: G28 (sets the high by homing and then the firmware pulls the height from your printer config) - This may be the least accurate depending on what type of end stops you use. G30 (sets the Z=0 by doing a single probe) - The guides for Cartesian printers tend to talk about doing it this way and it will work but most Delta printers back off their endstops and that play can make this less accurate. If you use this please make sure you disable this while probing per https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Calibrating_a_delta_printer#Section_Homing_the_machine G32 (Delta Auto Cal sets many values but one of them is the Z=0) - This is what I prefer and seems to be most common among people using Deltas. If you are using S6 and have 9 to 16 points the accuracy is high and it doesn't take long. At the end of the bed.g you can either probe your mesh or load it and the error shouldn't occur. One way to see if it is the order you are doing things is if you post your bed.g file as I presume you are getting the error after running a G32?
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  Shorted F0 and F2 Fans
  • aerouta  

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  See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connector_and_spare_part_numbers#Section_Fan_mosfet.
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  Smart Effector Fans work/LED Lights Don't Light Up
  • CoolioX  

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  The Smart Effector schematic is here https://github.com/T3P3/SmartEffector/blob/master/SmartEffector/SmartEffector_v2.0/SmartEffector_schematic_v2.0.pdf. The 3 LEDs and 2 resistors are all connected in series, that that chain is connected in parallel with the hot end fan. One of the resistors can be bypassed with a jumper. If you have a multimeter, you can check the continuity of that chain.
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  Z-probe already triggered ...
  • roguebyte  

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  Glad you got it sorted!
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  smart effector triggering from height?
  • miljnor  

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  The Smart Effector is sensitive to strong varying magnetic fields, which is why users who replace the standard E3D hotend fan by a different one sometimes experience spurious triggering. Are you probing with the bed heater on? Most bed heaters generate very little magnetic field, but a few types generate significant magnetic field (enough to affect BLTouch probes). So try probing with the bed heater off. RepRapFirmware has an option to temporarily turn off all heaters during probing, but I don't know which other firmwares provide this feature. It's also possible that magnetic fields from the PSU are causing the problem. I have the PSU under the bed too, but it's a low power one (because the bed heater runs off mains voltage), also the bed has 5mm of aluminium which probably provides effective shielding. HTH David
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  Watercooled Smart Effector In Larger Effector || 4th Axis Design
  smart effector 4th axis delta additional axis mounting water cooling effector • • Nxt-1  

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  Two days ago I printed all the parts I needed, sized correctly for a 25 mm bowden in between the hotend and extruder. After installing the parts it became clear quite quickly that 2 5mm is to short. For one, the wires coming out of the power connectors on top of the smart effector actually interfered with the bottom of the extruder. Secondly, 25mm is pretty tight in terms of bend radius near the bed edges. Following this, I quickly changed some parameters around to adjust for a 75 mm bowden, reprinted the part and installed the revised extruder mount. The 75 mm seems spot on, not unnecessarily long and not to short. The total length of the bowden, including the part thats that reside in the hotend heatsink and inside the extruder, is now 127mm. Which is a nice improvement from the 305mm it was previously. I will update this post should something noteworthy happen when I do more prints with this revised setup.