I'm using such simple water cooling block for several months, and it works great. I don't have any radiator, and even printing ABS don't heat-up the water too much. For higher temperatures, though (Nylon), it might be necessary.
I believe what you are suggesting parallels my thoughts of trying to mount the device to a non-Delta. Not sure if there will be an option, but it would be more universal.
It does work quite well as designed. Lightweight, minimilistic but very effective. Only added items were a part colling fan and a strain releif.
Unless your needs are real specific, it might be worth trying as documented. Its an easy (fun and rewarding) installation.
https://a360.co/2UxSh0q and http://a360.co/2gUIpMk
The first is not mine but i didn't find the original source. Apart from the fact that there is a post in the airway of the fan and the duct around the nozzle is pretty thin, its more thought out than the 2nd
The 2nd is mine, has more space for the air to go through. Ignore the yellow hotend cooling duct, an 30x30 fan will still fit. It attaches to the lower part of the mag ball screws but there is not space left for a nut, so i use rubber band to string it around the corners of the effector. That has actually proven to be a good quick release mechanism for when you want to change nozzle
Here's another possibility. The 12V/24V jumper is in series with the LEDs and bypasses a resistor on the PCB. So if you can remove that resistor then you can connect a switch to the 12/24V jumper pins, with a resistor of around 600 ohms in series with the switch if you are using 24V.
There are 3 mounting holes on the effector, so you could attach a printed part to mount your switch on. If you use those holes, use nylon washers under any metal screw heads or nuts, to avoid damaging the strain gauge traces.
I appreciate all your help on this. It looks like I've got some revisions to do and some additional testing.
I saw some other things that I'm going to attempt with your setup - hopefully I'll be able to toss the revisions out there for you guys if they pan out.
I had run into another guy using thin film resistors, like a 2512 (imperial) surface mount package in order to do his own strain gauge PCB. I'm hoping that once I can get this up and running and understand the circuit a little better - to replace the meandering traces on the PCB with a set of these. This (theoretically) should open up some board space for mounting some other hot ends (Slice Mosquito, E3D Chimera, etc).
We will certainly pass the changes back upstream if we're successful!
By chance do you have an updated BOM for the SmartEffector? I'm about to order some parts on mouser, and would like to try to iron out any discrepancies in my version.
@ka15574 said in Smart Effector Probe Setup Issues:
@dc42 any idea what the 6 flashes means? If I need to buy another smart effector it would be great if I could do that today
6 flashes means the same as 7 except the sensor output is out of tolerance the other way. It is quite common with the version 2 effector to see 6 or 7 flashes once or twice immediately after power up, and then to get the 2 flashes after the strain gauge amplifier has settled.
Don't throw the one that isn't working away yet. I am investigating some Smart Effectors that passed initial testing but subsequently give 6 flashes.
EDIT: I have re-tested those. All of them work properly, except that some of them flash 6 times once or twice immediately after power up.
Note, it is normal to get 6 or 7 flashes once or twice while the circuitry stabilises. I will add this to the instructions. The version 1 effectors didn't do the same self-test, but many of them also needed a few additional seconds after power up before they responded to nozzle contact.
I just returned from a faire and removed my magnetic rods for transportation. When I got home and reinstalled I was getting the same false positives but only when the heatsink fan was one. When I flipped the magnetic rods closest to the heatsink fan it went away. I have a feeling the magnet poles where adding additional vibration to the heatsink fan
I had the same problem on my delta as well, and the cause was two slightly loose nuts on one of the mag ball holders which unscrewed themselves after a few prints. I recently rebuilt my printer, and opted for nylock nuts for all screws on all moving parts which has higher friction and harder to unscrew themselves. I can highly recommend it
@sirus20x6 said in smart effector crashes into bed. light works:
fixed it! I had a single hair of a wire from the gnd connector on the smart effector end laying across to the next pin, i cleaned it up and dabbed a little liquid electrical tape on the wires coming out of the connector.
Thanks for your help with the config side of things!
I'm glad you fixed it. I had been thinking that a short between OUT and GND would explain the problem, but it seemed unlikely that you would have one.
I suspect if the air can be directed very close to the nozzle tip it isn't necessary to provide a 360 degree cooling.
My current plans for the next iteration:
270 degrees cooling, so the nozzle tip can be seen again during printing
remove the 'fingers' and prohibit the air from blowing directly at the nozzle so the air stays cooler
use a 40mm blower instead of 50mm to reduce footprint and weight
maybe use a 40mm blower for the e3d heatsink as well? The fan duct uses a lot of space currently
Any idea where i can get a high quality 40mm 24V blower fan?
The 50mm one i'm currently using has pretty bad vibrations
Maybe the old style silicon sock would be better suited as it shielded the nozzle better.
I suspect the radiated heat from the nozzle is a problem both for the print and the fan duct.
Where the screw that tightens the heater cartridge radiates heat, the fan duct fails first. It burns a hole in the PLA the size of the screw head.