Horizontal lines
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M569 P0 S0 ; Physical drive 0 goes backwards X M569 P1 S0 ; Physical drive 1 goes backwards Y M584 X0 Y1 Z2:4 E3 ; Set drive mapping, two z motors connected to driver outputs z and E1 M569 P2 S0 V0 ; Physical drive 2 goes backwards Z M569 P4 S0 V0 ; Physical drive 4 goes backwards Z M569 P3 S1 ; Physical drive 3 goes forwards E0 M671 X-39:291 Y0:0 S0.5 ; leadscrews at left and right of x axis
I noticed when I accidentally manually moved the X axis on the Z lead screws that it wouldn't calibrate the X axis due to being more than 1mm offset, so I had to do the Prusa method of lowering the current on Z motors and ramming the top of the printer first. I guess I could up
S0.5 to S2
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what firmware version? i think there was a problem in one of the rc releases.
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Firmware Name: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 Maestro
Firmware Electronics: Duet Maestro 1.0
Firmware Version: 2.03RC2 (2019-05-14b2)
Web Interface Version: 1.22.6 -
update to the latest 2.03 rc and try again
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@veti do you think there's an issue with the version that's causing those horizontal lines? or is it something with the dual driver motor setup? (which seems to work great)
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i thought you said something about the leveling.
did you try the disconnection of the coupler and moving the gantry? as is said any ever so slight resistance can cause this.
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@veti I have no couplers (lead screw is part of the motor)
The only issue I have with leveling is that if I accidentally move the X gantry manually, if it's more than 1mm offset, then I have to ram it into the top before trying the leveling. I'm just going to try changing the S parameter of M671 to a higher number and see if that works. I used the default S0.5 that was in the documentation.
When the machine is powered off, it is effortless to rotate the Z leads (they move smoothly)
It might be Amazon PETG
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@ringo1508 said in Horizontal lines:
When the machine is powered off, it is effortless to rotate the Z leads (they move smoothly)
that is not going to tell you if there is slight binding. try unscrewing the lead screw nuts.
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@veti which part are you talking about? Here are my lead screws, Z motors, and the X ends.
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the black thing on top. so you can move the gantry up and down without the lead screw.
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@veti got it! Yes, if I take those 4 screws out (two on either side) the gantry is completely loose of the printer and doesn't touch the lead screws at all. I'll make sure to not snug those screws too much.
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the thing to check if there is any binding from the linear guides on the smooth rods
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Well I updated to latest RC and I used S3D instead of Prusa Slicer. It does look better I think. I still need to tweak the settings to get rid of the blobs/stringing on the corner. So, maybe it's just slicer settings.
I checked for binding on the smooth rods and it feels fine ...it'll just fall if I let the gantry go.
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I think S3D sets the line starts to random by default? Try setting it to a forced location, or aligned. The layers will look a lot more consistent when they are starting at the same point and going in the same direction.
Otherwise they are looking pretty good.
Amazon PETG has been pretty good for me, but it sounds like it's hit or miss.
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Have you run heater tuning on the bed heater? If you haven't then it will run in bang-bang mode, which can contribute towards Z-banding.
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@dc42, I did not know this. I've been running in bang-bang mode. Crap. Okay, I'll do a bed heater PID tuning. Thank you!