Im still quite a newbie in this realm and i guess the amount of variables are getting to me
Backstory is I have a zesty nimble, which worked amazing but had 2 issues I cannot solve
Ripples in the surface finish - Company is still working on a fix
blobs at the end of a layer creating terrible Z seam scars
Tried all the ideas such as coast and wipe, but they have their own issues such as only available in some slicers, cannot be used with firmware retraction, etc.
Pressure advance by the sounds of it should eliminate the blobs at end of layer, but any attempt to use PA with a nimble due to its required low jerk values caused my prints to slow to about 3x the time. Was painful to watch.
Although, with the nimble I was able to get a great calibration part from the above enclosed script.
With the nimble, the calibration part has easily discernible reversing thick areas, and one can find the "best" setting of 0.12, but pressure advance was unusable for me in combination with the nimble.
So I order a Bondtech BMG and use a capricorn bowden tube of about 650mm paired with an E3D 0.9 degree stepper.
Now i get the Esteps all setup at E808, run some retraction calibration parts, and i still get blobs due to pressure at the end of a layer.
Run the above scripts on a Pressure Advance test and..... The results do not make sense to me.
Before the extruded line ever gets to an optimal state, the extrusion is messed up. It gets to the point where nothing is coming out of the nozzle at all. I was at 5-100 print speed so ran again at 20-80 which is the speeds I actually print at (E3D volcano, 0.6mm X nozzle)
And again the part never gets to the optimal PA value without the PA settings making the filament retract so much it doesn't print.
What am i doing wrong? Any suggestions?
Duet Wifi, Smart Effector, newest firmware, Delta printer based smilar to DC42's large kossel
Config is as follows :
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X200 Y200 Z200 E808; Set steps per mm original
M566 X1200 Y1200 Z1200 E2000 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X18000 Y18000 Z18000 E3600 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E3000 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E900 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
Some of the figures in that table are misleading, and some are plain wrong:
Thermistor resolution "Up to 0.16°C" doesn't mention that for a wide-range thermistor, the resolution is likely to drop to 10C or even worse towards the extremes of the range. This makes it difficult or impossible for the firmware to know whether the thermistor is present before turning the heater on.
Thermistor accuracy "1°C without calibration" is only likely to be true over a very limited temperature range, e.g. close to 25C (or whatever temperature the nominal resistance is specified at)
RTD resolution "1.2C" is completely wrong, for the Duet3D PT100 daughter board it is 0.03125°C
Thermocouple resolution "0.5C" is likewise wrong, for the Duet3D thermocouple daughter board it is 0.0078125°C
The response time of any type of temperature sensor is completely dependent on the packaging
Thermistors are for budget 3D printers. If you want to know your hot end temperature accurately, use a PT100, or a thermocouple if you need to measure very high temperatures. A PT1000 may also be a reasonable option if you don;t mind the resolution being a little lower than for a PT100. See our advice at https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/temperature_sensors.
have you tried removing the belt and moving the hotend in all direction with least amount of force.
the resistance should be constant. i.e at no stage should you have to apply more force for the movement than at the other places.
@PUGCanada I have an Ender 3 Pro also with a Maestro also.
it may not sag but it might be out of align with the other side.
I have to measure between the top of the leg and the X gantry on the left and compare with the right.
The right hand side might feel that it has no play, but please check the height.
I have found a difference of 5 - 10mm either too high or low and requires the occaisional 'tweak'!
My guide wheels are tight too, but the occaisional headcrash, me not watching what I am doing, i just check it as a sanity check!
@dc42 That did it! Thankyou so much for that suggestion, and thankyou so much to @Phaedrux for all the previous suggestions in working through it with me too.
It's hard to make a comment on a forum read as genuine sentiment, but this has been driving me up the wall for a few days, and the help from both of you has been really, massively appreciated.
I've used a few rolls of MatX. It's ASA based, which is basically super ABS. It does like a hot bed and no cooling, just like ABS, so you'll likely need to max out the Ender bed which should be able to hit 100c+ given enough time and an enclosure of some sort. It's also a bit smelly, just like ABS.
Edge is basically PETG and prints pretty nicely. I used Edge for a few of the parts of my DBot and it works fine. I'd probably give Edge a shot to start with.
ASA is going to have a high likelihood of warping and cracking on the Ender 3, imo.
I should probably mention that some of the Edge I've had has needed to be dried before it would print nicely. Not sure if that's a common thing, or just happenstance.
@cj-bravo said in Measure pressure in tube with stepper motor?:
Driver 0: standstill, SG min/max not available
Driver 1: standstill, SG min/max not available
Driver 2: standstill, SG min/max not available
Driver 3: standstill, SG min/max 0/1023
Driver 4: standstill, SG min/max not available
Driver 5: standstill, SG min/max not available
Driver 6: standstill, SG min/max not available
Driver 7: standstill, SG min/max not available
Driver 8: standstill, SG min/max not available
Driver 9: standstill, SG min/max not available
That tells me that the only driver that has moved is driver 3 since power up ot the last M122, and the load on that driver has varied between almost nothing and very heavy (probably stalled).
Phaedrux, thanks for the reply! I made all the changes you've mentioned besides pressure advance as im saving that for a bit later. I have a tevo tornado with a geared extruder. My bowden tube is around 400mm. I am testing a print right now and my extruder is flying! might have to turn acceleration down on that lol
I updated the firmware but unfortunately it makes no difference.
Next I will test it with a simple 8 bit board with Marlin. I hope it makes no difference because I really like the duet and the Dibond housing is milled for it...
While my other printers (not CoreXY) have the homing position and the 0,0 origin at the back/right of the printer...front left works for me too, kinda the same thing if you rotate the whole printer 180 degrees.
Following the directions from the link that you gave me determined that my motors were swapped.
Homing now positions the carriage at the rear/left or X0, Y300 which is where it needs to be for Home, sending the carriage to the origin at 0,0 places it at the Front / Left where it needs to be!
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction and helping me sort this out.
I don't think so but it's been a while since I've looked at that guide. The p9 mode also simplified how the deployment and retraction of the probe pin worked. So if you are manually deploying and retracting the pin in your homing files you no longer need to do that, because it's handled by the firmware now automatically when G30 or G29 is issued.
Did you ever get any traction with this? I'm contemplating these issues right now and finding myself perplexed why this hasn't been implemented yet. I made a post recently about merging the IR-based filament width monitoring feature from Marlin and was basically shot out of the sky. I could see combining that with this idea could be a powerful combination.
Devs, hear my prayers!
@nightreaver said in Z offset issue:
@57buick Hey if you want to lift the nozzle after calibration, your trigger height must become smaller, not bigger.
So maybe try something like Z1.65 or 1.61
OMG! @Nightreaver I feel like an idiot, you were right I needed to go more negative. Everything I read on how to setup the bltouch and configuring the offset seemed to indicate I needed to go positive to move the nozzle up and also on the job status page on the web interface I had to click "positive" up in .05 increments until filament could come out so it was very misleading. Thanks for your help, my first print is running now we will see how it comes out