Ok nevermind, i overlooked the fact that my starting script had a M82 in it. I changed that and it works.
The top one is a variation between Pressure advance 0 and 0.2, the second is a taller version for the PA of 0 to 0.5 and lastly the bottom one is between a PA of 0 and 1.
I´m using a super short "bowden" of around 120 mm, see picture.
BMG clone, genuine capricorn tube and e3d Volcano copper block, 0.4mm nozzle. Printing Tiertime ABS filament @260°C and 70°C Chamber temperature.
My Jerk is set to X500/Y600/E200. Acceleration is set to X1000/Y1000/E1000.
Looking at the results i need a PA of 0.55. Can this be? It seems a little excessive for a more or less direct drive extruder. Is it because of the volcano and the ABS filament?
Also, in the long segment the centers seem to bulge up, even at the part that had a maximum of 0.5 PA which is close to the needed value. I never get a consistent extrusion throughout like the other pictures posted.
What is the culprit of that? What do i need to change to have the extrusion in the fast segment even?
I have checked nonlinear extrusion but have not configured it since my extrusion stays consistently at 100% up until 7mm/s, at 8mm/s it is at 98.8% and at 10mm/s it is at 96.8%. If i configured nonlinear extrusion, the square fitment nature would mess up my extrusion below 7mm/s. It may need more variables.
@DigitalVision Thanks for the script, it works perfectly!
Some of the figures in that table are misleading, and some are plain wrong:
Thermistor resolution "Up to 0.16°C" doesn't mention that for a wide-range thermistor, the resolution is likely to drop to 10C or even worse towards the extremes of the range. This makes it difficult or impossible for the firmware to know whether the thermistor is present before turning the heater on.
Thermistor accuracy "1°C without calibration" is only likely to be true over a very limited temperature range, e.g. close to 25C (or whatever temperature the nominal resistance is specified at)
RTD resolution "1.2C" is completely wrong, for the Duet3D PT100 daughter board it is 0.03125°C
Thermocouple resolution "0.5C" is likewise wrong, for the Duet3D thermocouple daughter board it is 0.0078125°C
The response time of any type of temperature sensor is completely dependent on the packaging
Thermistors are for budget 3D printers. If you want to know your hot end temperature accurately, use a PT100, or a thermocouple if you need to measure very high temperatures. A PT1000 may also be a reasonable option if you don;t mind the resolution being a little lower than for a PT100. See our advice at https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/temperature_sensors.
@preb1 said in Bondtech or similar extruders (again):
Thermistor values I think are correct.
just let us double check that.
post the values that you configured in M305 and tell us which thermistors you are using.
Doh! that sucks about the ball head breaking off in the set screw. Good luck getting that off. I've made a lot of progress on my end. I've reprinted new versions of my upper frame corner braces that will make maintenance and adjustment far easier, and also got new genuine Gates belt. I'm going back from toothed idlers to the smooth stacked-bearing configuration, and will add a twist to the belts to keep the flat sides against the idlers. Combined with the move to the 0.9-degree steppers, and getting my config.g sorted out so I'm now running with 16x + 16x interpolation on all axes, my printer is quieter and should be delivering the best quality I've ever seen. Oh, over the last couple weeks I also got pressure advance and non-linear extrusion sorted out too, which contribute to that.
@Phaedrux Btw just got my gt2 Gates belt, and I've reprinted the left and right rear corner braces where the pulleys go with a remixed version that allows the pulleys to be replaced without having to disassemble the whole top of the frame. Doh! Can't believe the original design has the lower pulley screws facing down. For good measure I also printed out versions of the stepper mounts that allow the belts to be tightened at the stepper motor, rather than at the print carriage. Either tonight, or latest this weekend, I'll pull the whole top end apart and rebuild it, replacing the four corner pieces, and using the original smooth bearings in place of the toothed pulleys I've got in there now, and using the twist of the belt to keep the flat belt backs against the flat bearing/pulleys. Assuming this was always the source of my "corduroy" pattern artifacts, my prints should come out better than ever.
I've never used M122 before. I'll have to add it to my ending scripts and get that output as default from now on. Sounds like a useful diagnostic.
i call G29 from the initial G Code for printing and do the G32 z adjustment manually from time to time.
You could also do G32 and G29 in the initial printing g code if the extra time does not bother you.
As well as the spring effect of filament and motor there is also backlash if using gearing or a Bowden tube that has to be slightly bigger diameter than the filament. @dc42 does the pressure advance separate these two effects and compensate for them independently? I.e. to get over backlash you would want a very fast movement and then a slower accelerating speed once the filament is engaged.
M208 sets the axis travel, which is the whole distance each axis can move. For example, your X axis endstop is activated beyond the point where the nozzle is on the edge of the bed. So the X-23 tells the Duet where the edge of the bed is from the endstop. So your use of M208 is correct.
The reason for this is to allow for an offset probe, or for the nozzle to go off the bed (if you need to change filament).
You can also set the axis maximum movement. If your bed is 200mm x 200mm and Z can move up 200, you can set M208 to:
M208 X-23:200 Y0:200 Z0:200
This means that each axis won't try to move beyond the bed.
@classicstyle said in Mesh Calibration Issues (Duet Maestro 1.0, FW 2.02, BLTouch):
Well, I found tonight that I am a moron. I had forgotten two X-gantry retaining screws to hold the gantry rods in place on one side. There was a non-trivial amount of torsion on the print head as a result. Wondering if that was the source of the "scraping" of the print.
It sounds like you found the smoking gun!
@droftarts I hadn't thought of just turning off mesh bed compensation... there was me just printing in the middle strip of my bed!
I swapped the bearings out for some with a better fit just by rooting through by bag of spares to find the best ones and greatly improved the issue. Currently designing a new bracket for my Titan Aero to get the Z probe as close to 0 X offset as i can get.
sorry for the late response !
Removing B1 worked perfectly !
Well that's a problem...I read this thread https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/8690/keep-hotend-off-until-after-bltouch-finishes-bed-leveling/6 and read a little more on the subject, I'm going to stick with B1
The reason for -1 in my config is if i want to play with baby stepping to get the correct "squish" up or down the negative number allows me to to that.
As for tall prints its not an issue, these printers will never have perfectly straight lead screws and contraining them at the top means any bend has to show up somewhere and thats in the print. if you allow the lead screw to move about on the X,Y planes it doesnt matter, all that matters is the Z axis which is lift up or down and the weight of the carriage keeps the lead screw nuts where the are supposed to be and the carriage wheels on the X gantry keep everything where it is supposed to be, I even have the leadsrew nuts loosened off a tiny amount on X carriage mounts to allow the nuts to float around on the X,Y planes.
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