Ok nevermind, i overlooked the fact that my starting script had a M82 in it. I changed that and it works.
The top one is a variation between Pressure advance 0 and 0.2, the second is a taller version for the PA of 0 to 0.5 and lastly the bottom one is between a PA of 0 and 1.
I´m using a super short "bowden" of around 120 mm, see picture.
BMG clone, genuine capricorn tube and e3d Volcano copper block, 0.4mm nozzle. Printing Tiertime ABS filament @260°C and 70°C Chamber temperature.
My Jerk is set to X500/Y600/E200. Acceleration is set to X1000/Y1000/E1000.
Looking at the results i need a PA of 0.55. Can this be? It seems a little excessive for a more or less direct drive extruder. Is it because of the volcano and the ABS filament?
Also, in the long segment the centers seem to bulge up, even at the part that had a maximum of 0.5 PA which is close to the needed value. I never get a consistent extrusion throughout like the other pictures posted.
What is the culprit of that? What do i need to change to have the extrusion in the fast segment even?
I have checked nonlinear extrusion but have not configured it since my extrusion stays consistently at 100% up until 7mm/s, at 8mm/s it is at 98.8% and at 10mm/s it is at 96.8%. If i configured nonlinear extrusion, the square fitment nature would mess up my extrusion below 7mm/s. It may need more variables.
@DigitalVision Thanks for the script, it works perfectly!
Some of the figures in that table are misleading, and some are plain wrong:
Thermistor resolution "Up to 0.16°C" doesn't mention that for a wide-range thermistor, the resolution is likely to drop to 10C or even worse towards the extremes of the range. This makes it difficult or impossible for the firmware to know whether the thermistor is present before turning the heater on.
Thermistor accuracy "1°C without calibration" is only likely to be true over a very limited temperature range, e.g. close to 25C (or whatever temperature the nominal resistance is specified at)
RTD resolution "1.2C" is completely wrong, for the Duet3D PT100 daughter board it is 0.03125°C
Thermocouple resolution "0.5C" is likewise wrong, for the Duet3D thermocouple daughter board it is 0.0078125°C
The response time of any type of temperature sensor is completely dependent on the packaging
Thermistors are for budget 3D printers. If you want to know your hot end temperature accurately, use a PT100, or a thermocouple if you need to measure very high temperatures. A PT1000 may also be a reasonable option if you don;t mind the resolution being a little lower than for a PT100. See our advice at https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/temperature_sensors.
If you have the M307 values from the tuning in your config.g file then you don't need the config-override. If you miss (or don't have) the M501 from the end of your config.g then the values in the config-override won't be used.
@classicstyle said in Mesh Calibration Issues (Duet Maestro 1.0, FW 2.02, BLTouch):
Well, I found tonight that I am a moron. I had forgotten two X-gantry retaining screws to hold the gantry rods in place on one side. There was a non-trivial amount of torsion on the print head as a result. Wondering if that was the source of the "scraping" of the print.
It sounds like you found the smoking gun!
@phaedrux said in Can 'pressure advance' cause negative filament feed ?:
@jens55 said in Can 'pressure advance' cause negative filament feed ?:
Do I need to do anything besides selecting relative extrusion in Cura ? Do I need to do anything in the Duet setup ?
Nope. All that happens is that Cura inserts M83 into the gcode. There's probably already an M83 in your config.g since it's the default for the Duet, but Cura still uses absolute by default so it inserts M82.
Ok, done and yes, my config.g already had an M83 in it.
Good luck. I'm interested to see if that helps at all.
Oh and I forgot to mention to disable wipe when using PA.
Wipe has already been set to 0
I'd also give Prusa Slicer a try if you have it up and running. Sometimes the way cura behaves for very small features can be rather problematic. Sometimes the thin wall detection in Prusa Slicer is much better, or at least you can disable it. You're already using a 0.2mm nozzle so that should help.
I have never tried Prusa Slicer ... not sure I want to learn yet another software package
Net outcome: Printer still doesn't print the teeth with pressure advance turned on, printer had issues printing the teeth with pressure advance turned off (not as much as with pressure advance on but more than before)
Deckingman, thanks for confirming the maximum feed rate at 256 microstepping - I was nowhere near there.
I was thinking about a geared extruder while still staying with a bowden setup but I believe that with the overall inaccuracy in a bowden setup, a geared extruder will probably not help me much (Comment ?)
Since printing tiny stuff is not something I plan to do on a frequent basis (maybe my next printer ?), I will make do with what I have.
I also have many other issues I can use if I want to bash my head against a wall and feel the joy of pain
Thanks everybody for helping me understand what is going on here !!!! I learned a fair bit with all that messing about !
I have also discovered that if I print the model tilted at a 45 degree angle, I can get noticeably nicer teeth.
So, does anybody think that a 0.1 mm nozzle has any chance of working with a long bowden tube ?
@droftarts I hadn't thought of just turning off mesh bed compensation... there was me just printing in the middle strip of my bed!
I swapped the bearings out for some with a better fit just by rooting through by bag of spares to find the best ones and greatly improved the issue. Currently designing a new bracket for my Titan Aero to get the Z probe as close to 0 X offset as i can get.
sorry for the late response !
Removing B1 worked perfectly !
Well that's a problem...I read this thread https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/8690/keep-hotend-off-until-after-bltouch-finishes-bed-leveling/6 and read a little more on the subject, I'm going to stick with B1
The important thing to remember is to only flip the constant length sections.
In this photo the sections I flipped are K and J. First it flips on J and then stays flipped around the back side, and then flips again for K. This way the teeth are only making contact with the motor drive teeth. The rest of the idlers contacts are all on the smooth side.
For me, on a 300x300mm dbot the flip didn't seem to have any negative effects, but if you have a 200mm length for K and J maybe it's too tight? Something to keep an eye on.
Using genuine gates belts here as well. That also seemed to make an improvement for me.
The reason for -1 in my config is if i want to play with baby stepping to get the correct "squish" up or down the negative number allows me to to that.
As for tall prints its not an issue, these printers will never have perfectly straight lead screws and contraining them at the top means any bend has to show up somewhere and thats in the print. if you allow the lead screw to move about on the X,Y planes it doesnt matter, all that matters is the Z axis which is lift up or down and the weight of the carriage keeps the lead screw nuts where the are supposed to be and the carriage wheels on the X gantry keep everything where it is supposed to be, I even have the leadsrew nuts loosened off a tiny amount on X carriage mounts to allow the nuts to float around on the X,Y planes.
It's quite possible since capricorn tube has tight tolerances and if you don't use high quality filament that itself has tight tolerances it could be binding in the capricorn tube. I tried capricorn tube early on and gave up on it on my Ender 3 and went back to normal white PTFE tubing until I went direct extruder.
The printer is homing at the beginning.
G90 ; Set to Absolute Positioning
M82 ; Set extruder to absolute mode
G21 ; Metric values
M915 X Y S5 R3
In which line i turn it off?
I have an cartesian printer supplied by 24v with 2A 9kg/cm motors. But it seems that the duet will not recognise losing steps while printing. No matter in which situation (fast or low). Is it really enabled ? the last line in start code is M915 X Y S5 R3
@sungod3k said in G32 factors:
lists 3, 6, 10 and 12 in the compensation section. How do those different factors go together?
one is the auto calibration 4,6,7,8 configuration
and the other are points to probe the bed at 3,6,10,12
two different things.
sorry i just realized how the setup is one.
are the switches NO or NC?
i would try to wire them in parallel and use M558 P5
they will need to be connected to the z probe port.
but a construct would allow the printhead to move. this would not be beneficial for the print quality.
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