Some of the figures in that table are misleading, and some are plain wrong:
Thermistor resolution "Up to 0.16°C" doesn't mention that for a wide-range thermistor, the resolution is likely to drop to 10C or even worse towards the extremes of the range. This makes it difficult or impossible for the firmware to know whether the thermistor is present before turning the heater on.
Thermistor accuracy "1°C without calibration" is only likely to be true over a very limited temperature range, e.g. close to 25C (or whatever temperature the nominal resistance is specified at)
RTD resolution "1.2C" is completely wrong, for the Duet3D PT100 daughter board it is 0.03125°C
Thermocouple resolution "0.5C" is likewise wrong, for the Duet3D thermocouple daughter board it is 0.0078125°C
The response time of any type of temperature sensor is completely dependent on the packaging
Thermistors are for budget 3D printers. If you want to know your hot end temperature accurately, use a PT100, or a thermocouple if you need to measure very high temperatures. A PT1000 may also be a reasonable option if you don;t mind the resolution being a little lower than for a PT100. See our advice at https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/temperature_sensors.
Is that right that your X and Y jerk speeds are 0? That would lead to a complete stop and pause to change directions I think. That would be the cause of the over extrusion on corners.
Try a low value like 1 or 0.5 and see if that helps.
Also try increasing your extruder jerk and accelerations, say 600 jerk and 10000 accel.
That's a cool printer by the way. Definitely large format! How much Z height can you get on that?
@dc42 said in Tool 0 was not driven heater not high enought:
@kivlow said in Tool 0 was not driven heater not high enought:
I am testing printer so i dont have load filament.
From what temp it allow me to test all ??
Unless you use M302 to enable cold extrusion, AFAIR the minimum temperature for extrusion os 160C.
As always dc42 you the best !
It is likely that your slicer is using absolute extrusions and you have configured the duet for relative extrusion. Relative extrusion is generally better so if you can change the slicer settings to use relative extrusion do that, otherwise add M82 in your start gcode or change the in config.g to M82
I got a hold of Bossa 1.8 and reinstalled firmware 1.20 quite easily, and I'm back to printing already, thanks guys.
I wasn't able to fix the gradually sloping X axis issue I had with the printer last time, but I'll confront that if it's still shows up.
The only other issue I had during the test printer today was multiple Z height settings for the print, which I don't remember setting.
I just wanted to spare the ~1 month wait until a new bed arrives, I could not find any round 24V heated beds in my country.
My initial tought process was the following:
From the viewpoint of the bed:
It has a large thermal mass, so if I send pwm with high enough freauency (probably anything above 5hz would suffice) then it should not have a problem with it.
From the viewpoint of the PSU:
It was not rated anywhere close to this power, so I should use small impulses to steal small amounts of energy from the output capacitors, so it would represent a tolerable load, however if I use frequencues too high I might start some rezonance effect somewhere.
From the viewpoint of the panel:
The switching element generates most heat during switching on or off, because that is the point where both current and voltage are present, so I should use a relatively low the pwm freq, which is high enough to not fluctuate the switching element temperature.
It does not metter now, I threw the idea away because of the previous advices, so I'll just have to wait.
For the BLTouch the slower the better. I use a faster probe first to save time in case the bed is far from the nozzle, and then a final probe at F100 for greater accuracy.
M558 A1 F350 ; Set single probing at faster feed rate
G30 ; Do a single probe to home our Z axis
M558 A10 F100 ; Set tripple probing at slower feed rate
G30 ; Probe again to get a more accurate position
I can't say for other probes, but I think that would generally hold true. A piezo probe may have a minimum speed to register cleanly though.
![I did a PID tune. Here are my current config settings and this is how the print looks M350 X32 Y32 Z32 E32 I1; Configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X160 Y160 Z400 E190; Set steps per mm
M566 X500 Y500 Z80 E100 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed
M203 X1000 Y1000 Z450 E100 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X6000 Y6000 Z200 E10000 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X1400 Y1400 Z1500 E800 I30
M84 S5 ; Set idle timeout
; Axis Limits
M208 X0 Y-5 Z0 S1 ; Set axis minima
M208 X330 Y330 Z400 S0 ; Set axis maxima
M574 X1 Y2 Z1 S0 ; Set active low endstops
;M574 E0 Z1 S0
M558 P1 H3 I1 F200 T6000; Set Z probe type to unmodulated, the axes for which it is used and the dive height + speeds
G31 P600 X45 Y20 Z.35; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 X15:305 Y15:305 S40 ; Define mesh grid
@vlad said in Custom Thermister setup question:
One minor thing I forgot to mention, please consider making GCODE command Input field in web interface resizable or just longer, there is plenty of room on the right. Many of more complex commands don't fit in that line. I updated this inside CSS already myself on my board, but thought I'd mention this.
Do you mean the one next to the Connect/Disconnect button? If so then I expect Chris kept that one short so that the layout works well on smartphones. The input box on the GCode Console page is much longer, so you can use that one for complicated commands.
If you wish to discuss this further, please create a thread in the DWC Wishlist section of this forum.
@phaedrux it's still a gamble. No guarantee it will be accurate. IR beam is also quite large and hotend is small. In order for IR to measure temperature, the surface has to fill the beam completely. For hotbed also it is easy to just use contact thermometer, will be much more reliable.