When running the python script changing the center of bed to 110,110
This is a little snippet of the code it produces. Obviously X is off the charts. What am I doing wrong. Using python 3.7
G1 X3853.750 Y126.800 E0.2910 F4200
G1 X3858.750 Y126.800 E0.1663 F300
G1 X3867.500 Y126.800 E0.2910 F4200
G1 X3876.250 Y126.800 E0.2910 F4200
G1 X3881.250 Y126.800 E0.1663 F300
G1 X3890.000 Y126.800 E0.2910 F4200
G1 X3898.750 Y126.800 E0.2910 F4200
G1 X3903.750 Y126.800 E0.1663 F300
G1 X3912.500 Y126.800 E0.2910 F4200
G1 X3921.250 Y126.800 E0.2910 F4200
G1 X3926.250 Y126.800 E0.1663 F300
G1 X3935.000 Y126.800 E0.2910 F4200
G1 X3935.000 Y127.200 E0.0133 F4200
I should note that python is giving me Indentation errors.
Some of the figures in that table are misleading, and some are plain wrong:
Thermistor resolution "Up to 0.16°C" doesn't mention that for a wide-range thermistor, the resolution is likely to drop to 10C or even worse towards the extremes of the range. This makes it difficult or impossible for the firmware to know whether the thermistor is present before turning the heater on.
Thermistor accuracy "1°C without calibration" is only likely to be true over a very limited temperature range, e.g. close to 25C (or whatever temperature the nominal resistance is specified at)
RTD resolution "1.2C" is completely wrong, for the Duet3D PT100 daughter board it is 0.03125°C
Thermocouple resolution "0.5C" is likewise wrong, for the Duet3D thermocouple daughter board it is 0.0078125°C
The response time of any type of temperature sensor is completely dependent on the packaging
Thermistors are for budget 3D printers. If you want to know your hot end temperature accurately, use a PT100, or a thermocouple if you need to measure very high temperatures. A PT1000 may also be a reasonable option if you don;t mind the resolution being a little lower than for a PT100. See our advice at https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/temperature_sensors.
@systemsguy said in Retracting and Unretracting with G10/G11:
@dc42 Actually - if I've dropped the tool, but not picked up a new one and issue a G11, what would happen?
Good question! You might get a "Attempt to extrude with no tool selected" message. If so, I can fix that.
@dc42 said in Disabling fan burst at startup:
The Fan 1 hardware port is designed to turn the fan on by default, until firmware turns it off. It's a safety feature, for the benefit of users (like me!) who sometimes flash firmware while the hot end is hot, to avoid getting a filament jam if the fan doesn't start up promptly or the SD card is missing. So there isn't any way in firmware of getting the fan not to turn on briefly at power up or reset. But if the hot end is cold, it should only turn on for one brief burst.
You can get around this by mapping another fan port to the hotend fan and have nothing connected to fan1 .
Is the first layer going down smoothly? The over extrusion at the base but under extrusion father up would indicate that the first layer height may be off.
My preferred way to calibrate the e steps and flow rate can be found here: https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/9999/horrible-print-results-help-needed/14
@jay_s_uk I find the easiest thing is to set a minimum layer time. The cat on the left is 20sec minimum, and the middle one is 10sec minimum. To check that its the time not speed of printing, the one on the right is one of two printed together with 20sec minimum.
@jojo said in Heater Temperature exceeded:
Damn u are right! I just asked the seller to check if it was the right Hotendkit they sent me....and its a 12V, not the 24V i ordered.
Is it possible to use this Hotend with 24V power or did i have to replace it?
It's dangerous to run a 12V heater on 24V power. If that hot end uses a heater cartridge, you can replace it with a 24V cartridge.
@dc42 said in Tool switching inconsistancy:
Are you sure that none of the movements you are seeing are in the GCode generated by your slicer?
I was until I just checked a the gcode file again. Looks like the slicer is still putting in the retraction and extrudes for the tool switch (even though I have the figures blanked out now - previously was using the slicer to handle the tool changes).
Looks like the double retract and tool change made it look like it wasn't doing the purge before the wipe and the slicer then extruding to cancel the retraction is what I was mistaking for the purge.
Are you certain that your endstop switches are triggering at the same positions consistently, and that motion of your printer is smooth without excessive friction?
The usual way to calibrate without a Z probe would be to set the Z probe type to 0 in the M558 command and run auto calibration as usual (you will be prompted to jog the nozzle down to the bed at each probe point). But this won't solve a height inconsistency at a fixed XY position.
I had exactly the same issue on my Leadshine ES-D508. I was using the Duet Expansion Breakout Board for my drivers. And I also noticed the layer shifting becoming less as I increase the micro step, which makes sense, the more distance a single micro step takes, the more layer shift it would cause if it's not recognized by the driver or if it stepped to the wrong direction.
I was force to use the integrated stepper drivers but would love to get the external ones working some day.
@zapta said in G-Code confusion:
@dennishall said in G-Code confusion:
M208 X274 Y292 Z316 S0 ; maxima
I think that max X should be 220 (?)
The way I think of it, these are the allowed travel min/max, regardless of printing area. With this interpretation, you don't want X to go beyond 220 (?), of whatever the mechanical limit on your printer.
Yes you're totally right. I didn't look closely enough at the picture.
I started with one on my original printer and it worked really well for me so I continued using it.I have a few volcano set ups coming in the mail and about 15 nozzles in varying sizes from .6 up to 1.20 so I will try that out once I get the printer working as it should.I will start testing temps with the test cubes next.I will keep this thread updated and I will be back with retraction and jerk settings questions.
@gnydick said in Babystepping - confusion..:
@phaedrux homing doesn't clear baby-steps. Only if your homing script has that added.
Of course, you're right. Sorry for adding to the confusion.
Here's the source of my confusion:
In RepRapFirmware 1.19 and earlier, the babystepping offset is reset to zero when the printer is homed or the bed is probed. In RepRapFirmware 1.21 and later, homing and bed probing don't reset babystepping, but you can reset it explicitly using M290 R0 S0.
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