Some of the figures in that table are misleading, and some are plain wrong:
Thermistor resolution "Up to 0.16°C" doesn't mention that for a wide-range thermistor, the resolution is likely to drop to 10C or even worse towards the extremes of the range. This makes it difficult or impossible for the firmware to know whether the thermistor is present before turning the heater on.
Thermistor accuracy "1°C without calibration" is only likely to be true over a very limited temperature range, e.g. close to 25C (or whatever temperature the nominal resistance is specified at)
RTD resolution "1.2C" is completely wrong, for the Duet3D PT100 daughter board it is 0.03125°C
Thermocouple resolution "0.5C" is likewise wrong, for the Duet3D thermocouple daughter board it is 0.0078125°C
The response time of any type of temperature sensor is completely dependent on the packaging
Thermistors are for budget 3D printers. If you want to know your hot end temperature accurately, use a PT100, or a thermocouple if you need to measure very high temperatures. A PT1000 may also be a reasonable option if you don;t mind the resolution being a little lower than for a PT100. See our advice at https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/temperature_sensors.
You need to send those M303 commands from the console, not in config.g. It will go through a PWM tuning routine and will result in values appropriate for your heater to maintain your requested temperature. Those values will then go into your config, either by manually entering them into config.g or by saving them with M500 so they automatically go into config-override.g Doing it that way will require M501 at the end of config.g to load the values from config-override.g
Heater tuning should normally be done using P1 (the default), unless you are using very old firmware. The only time P1 is likely to be problematic is if your hot end heater is over-powered, for example if you make the mistake of using a 12V heater cartridge on a 24V system.
The heater tuning doesn't always establish the value of the dead time (D parameter in the M307 command) very accurately. If D is set too low then the temperature will oscillate; so if you see the temperature oscillating regularly even when not printing, then try increasing D, initially by about 50%. If D is set too high then the PID will be slow to respond to external changes, for example the print cooling fan turning on.
No i don't think it's a firmware bug. Please try removing E6 from your M584 command and changing X0 to X6 in it, and with the Duet powered down move the X motor connector to the E3 connector on the DueX2. Then power up and test the X axis. That will show whether the E3 driver (driver 6) is working correctly.
See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Centering_the_bed_or_setting_the_bed_origin for how to set the location of the bed origin.
The way you set the Z=0 position depends on how you are homing Z. If you are homing Z using a Z probe, you need to set the trigger height of the Z probe in the G31 command in config.g. if you are homing Z using an endstop switch, see https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/ConfiguringRepRapFirmwareCartesianPrinter#Section_Homing_Z.
I'd suggest a systematic approach. Prepare a sliced gcode file to test with. A tower of some kind with sides long enough to get up to your chosen speed. I like to use 100mm/s so that it's easy to scale the speed with percentage. Use 2 or 3 walls and no infill. Make sure your slicer doesn't try to control acceleration settings. Set jerk to something easy like 600mm/min (10mm/s) Then use the m204 gcode command to modify the acceleration for print moves increasing every 10 layers or so. You could even add it to the gcode file itself so you don't have to do it manually. Then print it a few times at different speed factors and you should be able to identify a sweet spot. You could also measure the distance between ringing ridges and use the formula from that thread to find your ringing frequency.
@pro3d said in Sell the D3d?:
I guess if i skip the stall detect it would be a much smoother ride.
Yes, to use stall detection homing you need to find a good combination of stall detection sensitivity and motor current during homing that works with your motors and mechanics - unless you buy a genuine Prusa i3 Mk3, in which case that work has been done for you. It's not hard to tune the stall detection parameters, but it's probably easier for a beginner to use endstop switches because they don't need tuning.
@dc42 said in A bit confused about fans in the WebUI:
The tool fan (aka print cooling fan) can refer to different physical fans at different times, for example on an IDEX printer. That is why it is shown separately from the individual fan numbers.
Oh, thats okay then. I can live with "working as designed". I thought that I had missconfigured something.
@nichkos said in Z-probe command (G30) causes runaway in X and Y:
The problem is when I issue a G30 command my understanding was the bed would come up and trigger the probe at the current X and Y position. Is this not the case?
G30 without any additional parameters will run deployprobe.g unless the firmware thinks the Z probe is already deployed, move the head down or bed up until the probe triggers, then if it ran deployprobe.g it will run retractprobe.g to retract the probe. So if it is doing something strange, delete any deployprobe.g and retractprobe.g files in /sys on the SD card that you didn't intend to have.
G30 with XY parameters and Z-(a lot) will move the head so that the probe is at the specified XY coordinates, taking account of the XY nozzle offset that you specified in your G31 command. It's up to you to make sure that you have specified sensible XY coordinates in G30 and sensible XY offsets in G31, because the usual limit checking is not done for G30 moves.
Same question asked here just the other day.
Basically Tool Fan and your "Part" fan are one in the same. Both are fan0 in your case.
@dmkmedia said in my delta printer seems to have a mind of its own:
They are not fitted as they would not fit to the carriages so I printed one with the measurements on the site with one that would fit
As others have said, it's almost certainly the source of the tilt and you must fix this before going any further. the rod pairs need to be absolutely parallel for the effector to stay level. One of the clever aspects of the Smart Effector design was in using the excellent precision of a manufactured PCB to ensure that the Mag ball holes are perfectly spaced.
If you are getting false readings from the strain gauge on the Smart Effector, that's going to prevent auto calibration from working. Worth double-checking crimps and any other connections, just in case you are getting an intermittent connection fault.
For now, I'd concentrate on the tilt issue. If you can take a clear photo of your carriage mounts, maybe someone can offer advice on how to get the PCB adaptor to fit.
@kskiff7034 said in Can't stay connected after adding heated bed?:
It began as a D-Bot, but there's so many changes it's hard to call it a D-Bot at this point.
I think that's the story of most DBots. It's a good starting platform for customization.
Good luck with the wiring. My suggestion is to do everything right the first time, because once it's in there you will loathe to take it all down again to redo something. Ask me how I know.
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