Looking for some help on a Creality Ender 5 config.



  • Hi all. Trying to figure out what is causing to happen on my ender 5 config with the duet 2 wifi board.
    0_1556415962305_20190427_214332.jpg
    0_1556415986093_20190427_214323.jpg
    0_1556416010271_20190427_214342.jpg



  • Can you post your config.g and your slicer settings?
    It kind of looks like you're using a lot of perimeters rather than infill?



  • Sure thing. This is the config.g info.

    ; Configuration file for Duet Maestro (firmware version 1.21)
    ; executed by the firmware on start-up
    ;
    ; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v2 on Sat Apr 27 2019 01:04:58 GMT-0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)

    ; General preferences
    G90 ; Send absolute coordinates...
    M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves

    ; Network
    M550 P"Magic Box" ; Set machine name
    M551 P"" ; Set password
    M552 S1 ; Turn on wifi
    M552 P0.0.0.0 S1 ; Enable network and acquire dynamic address via DHCP
    M586 P0 S1 ; Enable HTTP
    M586 P1 S0 ; Disable FTP
    M586 P2 S0 ; Disable Telnet

    ; Drives
    M569 P0 S1 ; Drive 0 goes forwards
    M569 P1 S1 ; Drive 1 goes forwards
    M569 P2 S0 ; Drive 2 goes backwards
    M569 P3 S0 ; Drive 3 goes forwards
    M350 X32 Y32 Z32 E64 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
    M92 X160.00 Y160.00 Z800.00 E407.44 ; Set steps per mm
    M566 X900.00 Y900.00 Z180.00 E120.00 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
    M203 X6000.00 Y6000.00 Z1200.00 E1200.00 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
    M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E250.00 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
    M906 X800.00 Y800.00 Z800.00 E800.00 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
    M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout

    ; Axis Limits
    M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1 ; Set axis minima
    M208 X230 Y230 Z300 S0 ; Set axis maxima

    ; Endstops
    M574 X1 Y1 Z1 S1 ; Set active high endstops

    ; Z-Probe
    M558 P0 H2 F120 T6000 ; Disable Z probe but set dive height, probe speed and travel speed
    M557 X15:6 Y15:195 S20 ; Define mesh grid

    ; Heaters
    M307 H0 B0 S1.00 ; Disable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
    M305 P0 T100000 B4138 R2200 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0
    M143 H0 S120 ; Set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
    M305 P1 T100000 B4138 R2200 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1
    M143 H1 S280 ; Set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C

    ; Fans
    M106 P0 S0.65 I0 F20 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
    M106 P1 S0.65 I0 F20 H-1 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
    M106 P2 S0.85 I0 F5000 H1 T100 ; Set fan 2 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on

    ; Tools
    M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0
    G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Set tool 0 axis offsets
    G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C

    ; Automatic power saving
    M911 S12 R20 P"M913 X0 Y0 G91 M83 G1 Z3 E-5 F1000" ; Set voltage thresholds and actions to run on power loss

    ; Custom settings
    M552 S1

    The slicer i have used 2 of them with pretty much the same results cura 4.0 and the one that came with the ender 5.

    cura 4.0 my gcode start it this

    G28 ;Home
    G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm
    ;Prime the extruder
    G92 E0
    G1 F200 E3
    G92 E0

    end is

    M83
    G91
    ;G1 F1800 E-3
    G1 F3000 Z10
    G90
    G28 X0 Y0 ; home x and y axis
    M106 S0 ; turn off cooling fan
    M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
    M140 S0 ; turn off bed
    M84 ; disable motors

    layer height 0.15
    line width 0.4
    wall thickness 1mm
    wall line count 2
    top/bottom thickness 0.6mm
    top layers 4
    bottom layers 4

    infill density 10%
    infill pattern Triangles

    print temp (using pla) 220
    build plate 75
    enable retraction on

    print speed 55mm/s
    wall speed 27.5 mm/s
    top/bottom speed 28mm/s
    enable jerk control on
    print jerk 15mm/s
    wall jerk 15mm/s
    outer wall jerk 15mm/s
    inner tall jerk 15mm/s

    fan speed 80%

    build plate raft

    if i missed anything that might help figure this out please let me know and i will post it.



  • So the base of the cube looks over heated. This is pretty normal for such a small part. However, I think it's pretty likely that your thermistor values are a bit off, which could mean you're printing much hotter than you think you are.

    See this thread: https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/9464/m305-thermistor-values-for-the-duet-maestro-on-the-ender-3-pro/9

    Assuming the Ender 5 uses the same thermistor as the Ender 3, you may have better results changing up your M305 commands for your heaters to be

    M305 P0 T97700 B4619 C9.743561e-8 R2200
    M305 P1 T97700 B4619 C9.743561e-8 R2200
    

    Then you should do a PID auto tune again: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Tuning_the_heater_temperature_control#main

    That should hopefully get your temperatures set properly. Might be a good idea to print a temperature tower as well just to dial in a good temp setting.

    You may also want to look into printing a fan shroud mod to improve the directionality of your part cooling.

    print temp (using pla) 220
    build plate 75

    220 may be a bit high for your PLA for such a small part. And 75 on the bed is definitely too high for such a small part.

    Try printing something larger or print two of those cubes to give each layer more time to cool down.



  • looks like you might be right on the thermistor values.

    10:18:06 AMWarning: Heater 0 appears to be over-powered. If left on at full power, its temperature is predicted to reach 219C.
    Auto tune heater 0 completed in 1000 sec
    Use M307 H0 to see the result, or M500 to save the result in config-override.g
    10:06:30 AMAuto tune phase 3, peak temperature was 100.2
    10:06:23 AMAuto tune phase 2, heater off
    10:01:31 AMAuto tune phase 1, heater on
    10:01:25 AMM303 H0 S100
    Auto tuning heater 0 using target temperature 100.0°C and PWM 1.00 - do not leave printer unattended
    9:59:52 AMWarning: Heater 1 appears to be over-powered. If left on at full power, its temperature is predicted to reach 494C.
    Auto tune heater 1 completed in 231 sec
    Use M307 H1 to see the result, or M500 to save the result in config-override.g
    9:57:42 AMAuto tune phase 3, peak temperature was 249.4
    9:57:33 AMAuto tune phase 2, heater off
    9:56:06 AMAuto tune phase 1, heater on
    9:56:01 AMM303 H1 S240
    Auto tuning heater 1 using target temperature 240.0°C and PWM 1.00 - do not leave printer unattended

    going to try another cube and will drop the temp to 215 nozzle and 60 bed and see if this has helped any. The reason i went with 220 on this is with the old marlin board that came with the system it printed the best at this temp for the amazon basic black pla. The reason i switched over to duet was the system was so loud printing and i wanted a quieter system with better controls. will post up the result of the new print when they are done.



  • 220 for pla is quite high.
    Its normally 185C to about 205C.

    you might want to print a temperature tower. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2493504



  • I will give this a try as i am getting tired of printing flawed dice all day lol. This is what they recomend for the filament i got.0_1556463221360_20190428_104919.jpg



  • temp tower came out ok still getting some sloppy corners but bridging came out a bit crappy. Ran a 190-235 tower it everything 200 and up was ok 190 was a no go. nothing but string at the top.
    I had taken off my TL-smoothers from when I was running on the stock marlin board do you think I should add those back on?
    0_1556477975554_20190428_145443.jpg



  • @melfesto said in Looking for some help on a Creality Ender 5 config.:

    I had taken off my TL-smoothers from when I was running on the stock marlin board do you think I should add those back on?

    tmc drivers do not need tl-smoothers.



  • That looks like Amazon Basics Black PLA. I print that at 210-220c. So that checks out.

    Keep in mind that you're printing a tiny cube on a very hot bed with a very hot nozzle dumping molten filament. It's going to look melty. Your print speed isn't very fast either.

    Print something larger like a benchy. Try 50mm/s for walls, infill, and top/bottom solid infill. Increasing the print speed in the slicer will probably increase quality in this case. You may want to try 0.2 layer height as well. I'm not sure what the Z axis full steps are for the Ender 5, but on the Ender 3 it has a 0.04 mm full step resolution, so only multiples of 0.04 are full step layer heights. 0.04, 0.08, 0.12, 0.16, 0.2, etc. You're using 0.15 layer height which is a tad off from that. You can see some layer banding in your photos that could be a result of that.

    If you want to fine tune your jerk and acceleration settings you can disable the acceleration and jerk control in Cura and then use the firmware values so you can change them during a print to see their effect. You can modify them at any time during a print by sending the gcode command in the console. M566 X1200 Y1200 would boost the jerk to 20mm/s for example.

    Your current firmware values are on the conservative side, so the print quality should be quite good, but a little slow. Once you figure out the best jerk/accel values for each move type you can then use those values in Cura to fine tune the print moves. Slower and smoother for external surfaces, and faster for infills.

    The perfect values are going to depend on your printer mechanics and resonances. Slower isn't always smoother. For instance, on my printer, 40mm/s causes a resonance that sounds pretty bad. Upping to 50mm/s and the sound disappears and movement is very smooth.

    For jerk, I can get up to about 30mm/s before it starts to thunk and sound rough on direction changes. At around 8mm/s movement becomes too halted and slow downs at corners are too great. 15-20mm/s ends up being the smoothest.

    For acceleration 500mm/s^2 is good for eliminating ringing on the outer walls but is too slow for other moves. 1000-2000 for infill moves is much better.


 

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