Just an update.
I received my new motors (same motors, just new ones) as the other seemed to have a bent shaft. I did the following tests:
- printed cube on my Prusa i3 MK2.5 Bear with TMC2208 X and Y external drivers
- printed cube using one of my other 1.8deg stepper motors as X motor (Z motors connected to ZA and ZB)
- printed cube using new 0.9deg replacement X motor (Z motors connected to ZA and ZB)
- printed cube using new 0.9deg replacement X motor using "faster" slicer profile (Z motors connected to ZA and E1)
- printed cube using new 0.9deg replacement X motor using "slower" slicer profile (Z motors connected to ZA and E1)
Cubes in picture are 1 through 5 from left to right.
Interestingly enough, I do see the lines/differences on the Prusa and might be worse than the Duet printer! (hah!)
I don't see a huge difference between any of these. If you zoom in, you can definitely see the line differences. Maybe I just didn't pay as much attention to them before getting into "building my own printer" phase? Do these lines look normal/acceptable to others? Should I work on trying to get them smoother or more uniform?
I'm using Amazon PETG and I did put them in the food dehydrator on 140F for 8+ hours before printing with them in order to make sure moisture wasn't a variable.
Other things I did:
- confirmed that X, Y, and Z axes are dang near perfectly square
- made sure belts were not too tight or too loose
- found the X carriage to have a weird tension when moving, then got easier to move, then harder, then easier ...loosened grub screws and moved the 16T pulley a little bit away from motor housing and tightened grub screws up ...this fixed that (I guess it was rubbing, which makes me think there's still a little wobble to the shaft)
I guess I just live with it I'll try printing that speed and acceleration print again and see if it looks like the original pictures I posted.
@veti, I'll try the Atomic PETG I have then ...or see if I have some Hatchbox left over.
My next test will also to be to use S3D to slice it and see if that makes a difference. At least now I'm happy to know it's most likely not a mechanical issue. I do like having motors on different drivers now too.
@veti, do you have experience using multiple drivers for Z? I followed the link. I just want to make sure what I'm doing is good, or too much, or if there's something better:
M561 ; clear any bed transform G28 ; home all axes G30 P0 X11 Y105 Z-99999 ; probe near a leadscrew, half way along Y axis G30 P1 X220 Y105 Z-99999 S2 ; probe near a leadscrew and calibrate 2 motors G30 P0 X11 Y105 Z-99999 ; probe near a leadscrew, half way along Y axis G30 P1 X220 Y105 Z-99999 S2 ; probe near a leadscrew and calibrate 2 motors G30 P0 X11 Y105 Z-99999 ; probe near a leadscrew, half way along Y axis G30 P1 X220 Y105 Z-99999 S2 ; probe near a leadscrew and calibrate 2 motors G29 ; probe the bed and enable compensation
I have 2 motors (i3 style printer) so I'm making sure that the bed gets leveled between the two motors before doing teh G29. My config.g has the following in it:
; Z-Probe M574 Z1 S2 ; Set endstops controlled by probe M558 P5 H5 F600 T3000 A3 ; Set Z probe type to switch and the dive height + speeds G31 P500 X0 Y0 Z0.9 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height M557 X11:220 Y5:196 P7:7 ; Define mesh grid
whats your M671 line?
M569 P0 S0 ; Physical drive 0 goes backwards X M569 P1 S0 ; Physical drive 1 goes backwards Y M584 X0 Y1 Z2:4 E3 ; Set drive mapping, two z motors connected to driver outputs z and E1 M569 P2 S0 V0 ; Physical drive 2 goes backwards Z M569 P4 S0 V0 ; Physical drive 4 goes backwards Z M569 P3 S1 ; Physical drive 3 goes forwards E0 M671 X-39:291 Y0:0 S0.5 ; leadscrews at left and right of x axis
I noticed when I accidentally manually moved the X axis on the Z lead screws that it wouldn't calibrate the X axis due to being more than 1mm offset, so I had to do the Prusa method of lowering the current on Z motors and ramming the top of the printer first. I guess I could up
S0.5 to S2?
what firmware version? i think there was a problem in one of the rc releases.
Firmware Name: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 Maestro
Firmware Electronics: Duet Maestro 1.0
Firmware Version: 2.03RC2 (2019-05-14b2)
Web Interface Version: 1.22.6
update to the latest 2.03 rc and try again
@veti do you think there's an issue with the version that's causing those horizontal lines? or is it something with the dual driver motor setup? (which seems to work great)
i thought you said something about the leveling.
did you try the disconnection of the coupler and moving the gantry? as is said any ever so slight resistance can cause this.
@veti I have no couplers (lead screw is part of the motor)
The only issue I have with leveling is that if I accidentally move the X gantry manually, if it's more than 1mm offset, then I have to ram it into the top before trying the leveling. I'm just going to try changing the S parameter of M671 to a higher number and see if that works. I used the default S0.5 that was in the documentation.
When the machine is powered off, it is effortless to rotate the Z leads (they move smoothly)
It might be Amazon PETG
@veti which part are you talking about? Here are my lead screws, Z motors, and the X ends.
the black thing on top. so you can move the gantry up and down without the lead screw.
@veti got it! Yes, if I take those 4 screws out (two on either side) the gantry is completely loose of the printer and doesn't touch the lead screws at all. I'll make sure to not snug those screws too much.
the thing to check if there is any binding from the linear guides on the smooth rods
Well I updated to latest RC and I used S3D instead of Prusa Slicer. It does look better I think. I still need to tweak the settings to get rid of the blobs/stringing on the corner. So, maybe it's just slicer settings.
I checked for binding on the smooth rods and it feels fine ...it'll just fall if I let the gantry go.
I think S3D sets the line starts to random by default? Try setting it to a forced location, or aligned. The layers will look a lot more consistent when they are starting at the same point and going in the same direction.
Otherwise they are looking pretty good.
Amazon PETG has been pretty good for me, but it sounds like it's hit or miss.
Have you run heater tuning on the bed heater? If you haven't then it will run in bang-bang mode, which can contribute towards Z-banding.
@dc42, I did not know this. I've been running in bang-bang mode. Crap. Okay, I'll do a bed heater PID tuning. Thank you!