Bed Surface Recomendations - PETG, PLA, ABS
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@doctrucker said in Bed Surface Recomendations - PETG, PLA, ABS:
As said above I am using plain black PrintBite+.
oops, I missed that in your first post, sorry.
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I have used pei sheet for about 3 years. Then I started printing petg. At times petg would destroy the pei sheet by sticking too good. So I gave up on it and went back to printing on glass. Used gluestick on glass but hairspray works so much better. Also hairspray is easy to clean up with water and paper towel or wash in the sink.
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I have been using geckotek ezstick hot for quite a while, works great with abs (low to no warping), pla, nylon (no glue stick needed), flexibles (no glue stick or other barrier layer print onto the surface cold comes off easily with a spatula), I haven't tried petg with it yet but I would expect it to work just fine.
I decided to try after I saw taulman recommended it for their nylons. I will say that you do have to replace it after a while as it will wear out but the sheet I have been using in my flashforge creator pro has easily lasted double or more the amount of prints the sheets are rated for, It also seems to work well with dc43 it probe as well.
Another plus is its easy to cut to size with a razor blade/box cutter after applying to your build plate, unlike the pei sheet I put on my 1st Gen rostoc max. -
Having a 600mm diameter Delta (24" in barbarian units) limits your options. I've not seen any commercial surfaces like PEI or Bite made in this size. Very very rare, if any. The print bed is approx. 6mm thick. It is sold as a glass tabletop, approx. $40 USD, on Amazon.
Therefore, I use glass w/hairspray for everything. Thorough cleaning with water or alcohol between sprays really helps. I've never seen anything approaching a chip.
Probe is a smart effector; no problems with glass. Calibration is in my start g-code, for every print.
If something REALLY doesn't want to come off the bed, allowing it to cool to 40C and a spatula usually gets it... if not that, then just allow everything to cool to room temp (20C or so) and somewhere on the way you'll hear a loud pop as the different expansion (ok, contraction) rates of glass vs. plastic work their magic.
That contraction trick: It helps that this is a big printer and I print big things. (Right next to it, there is a Prusa Mk3S for printing smaller things. It, of course, has the flexible steel bed with whatever coating Joseph decided. Alcohol cleaning, EVERY time, is the key to that one. Works fantastically well.)
I have some 6" wide (150mm) Kapton tape, and I occasionally use this on the glass with water spray and a squeegee to apply the tape itself, in parallel strips. Not really for any specific material, more when the mood strikes me.
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@danal It's not cheap, but Zoro has your size. I bought a 12x24" sheet, cut 1/2 of it down to fit my delta, and used the same piece on glass for 3+ years. I still use it occasionally, but have primarily switched to thinner adhesive PEI on a flex steel sheet from TH3D. Yeah, it isn't round, but works great for the price.
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