Considering a 12v to 24v upgrade? DO IT!
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While the heaters get hotter, they are designed to run hot.
They have temperature sensors and control circuits that monitor their heat and keep it in bounds, most PSUs just have a 'thermal fuse' that melts at a set temperature.
Heaters are unlikely to be full of dust and fluff because they are not out of sight.
Heaters don't have large electrolytic capacitors in them, don't have inductors, transformers, power IC's, and a whole bunch of circuitry that runs hot and add risks.Plus, if you think about it; all the energy that goes into the heaters has to first go through the PSU, and it is a high energy device in it's own right. It is also plugged directly into a high voltage, high current supply with no protection beyond whatever RCB/fuse that provides.
Add cheap mass manufacture and a 'pass it' attitude to Quality Control and I think I can justify this statement, somewhat Certainly if anyone is going to fly the safety banner to advocate 'maximum caution at all times' with heaters I'd tell them to look at the wider picture and re-double their panic.
Of course; the safe solution for PSU's is the same as for heaters, pay attention, don't follow my advice, Always stay in spec and never leave your machine unattended!
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I still, however, consider the PSU to be the biggest fire risk in this printer
Well, that’s where the power is, but each PSU has a fuse (or more of them) and a metal case with enough distance to its components who might blow up. Our responsibility begins where the PSU ends: there is no instance to certify the correctness of our installation.
What about the cabling? Have we put a fuse on every line which might be overpowered? Are we sure of every single crimp we made? Are we on the safe side with all connectors or may they get hot? And then: we all print lots of parts for our printers. As we intentionally operate with heat - do we consider the fire load density we build into our machines?
Always consider the risk that a single heater at the hot end might go wild, reaching more than 500 C if fully powered. Out on thingiverse, you can find dozens of print head designs and fan ducts whose PLA would not withstand such temperatures because some parts come too close to the source of the heat.
At unexpected temperatures, the heater cartridge can even come loose and drop from its block: what if it induces 500 C to the plastic object it just tried to print underneath? This can well happen at the rated voltage - would you really like to go with four times the power, instead?
And worst: some of us do not even know about the risks. That stood at the origin of this thread, followed by a bold request not to hesitate any longer. Even if i’m wrong and @dirtybirdnj knows what he’s talking about - what I doubt as he exposes his poor fans to 24 V without a sign of insight -, he really should have found some words for those who take his advice for granted.
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In the past 3 or 4 decades I can count on one finger the number of power supplies that have failed on me.
But I do not buy no-name power supplies.
I will continue to have a lot more faith in name brand power supplies than in the inexpensive printers on the market.
YMMV.
Frederick
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@fcwilt said in Considering a 12v to 24v upgrade? DO IT!:
In the past 3 or 4 decades I can count on one finger the number of power supplies that have failed on me.
Having hung around in the IT industry I've actually seen plenty of well made but stressed PSU's go woof in hot server rooms. Branding is no mark of quality, and I stand by what I say; with higher voltages and energies floating around in them, and with peoples habit of putting them somewhere and then forgetting about them, they are the biggest hazard on the average 3d printer, not the hotend or bed.
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It's another occasion where I thank someone for raising a risk I had not considered, but I do doubt if well considered it poses a greater risk than the heater related risks on my systems. However, mine aren't your a typical 'cheap ones' so I've probably missed the point.
If you crowbar the PSU most units detect short circuit and shutdown faster than a fuse will blow.
Here's my checklist:
- Make sure the rating of the PSU is at most around 80% of the max expected draw.
- Wire from PSU rated to take full current of PSU upto lower rated fuses or devices.
- Fuse on mains input to PSU as close as practical to the stated draw.
- Ensure good airflow around PSU.
- Periodically check PSU for fowling and voltage output. Vacuum over vents.
- Use earth fault breakers and spike suppression on supply.
I'd say the chance of a serious PSU fault not failing the fuses on input or output or earth fault detector and becoming a fire is small.