IR Z PROBE 1.4 AUS3d DuetWifi
Iv ordered this irz probe from www.aus3d.com.au
Only thing is it has 4 wires and for the life of me, i cant figure out how to do the wiring to the duet wifi
theres Green ,red,yellow and black and as you can see in the image there seems to be an Analog(yellow) Digital(green)
Ground(black) and VCC is red but no matter what combination I do I cant seem to get it to work.
If anyone can help me it would be really appreciated.
I'd hazard a guess that you want to connect the VCC, GND and ANA wires from this board to your duet wifi z-probe connector bearing in mind that the pinnout for the duet wifi connector has a 4 wire system but the MOD is unused with this type of sensor.
Make sure VCC goes to the pin furthest from the wifi and sd card on the duet wifi
The next pin is MOD which is unused.
Then ANA (which is analogue signal)
You set it up using
M558 and G31 commands, see the wiki.
Thanks DJDemonD I'll give it a try and see what the results are.
Ok thanks to DjDemonD i was able to get it working but now when im trying to set up the z height probing in the center of the delta:
Send G92 Z0 to define that height as Z=0
Command the nozzle up 5mm (G1 Z5)
Send G30 S-1 to probe the bed without resetting the Z=0 position
The probe triggers but the nozzle just keeps trying to push through the bed.
could that be because its not even seeing the bed? I'm using the standard glass with the heated bed stuck to it.
now i was using this guide:
But i found that after calibrating and then save the results through config overide and I have tried to enter it manually it seems the results make the nozzle to high off the bed almost close to 5mm at times, or to low to the point it produces everything explained above.
so it seemed to be working fine during that guide but then i Found this guide:
and tried to setup auto calibration and but it just wont stop smashing into the bed when its time to probe.
This is the bed that im using:
Yeah you need a piece of black card under the glass, which with a kapton heater bonded to it might be a challenge. Its neat that way but better to have the kapton bonded to aluminium, then the glass on top with the card between then, or paint the back of the glass with stove paint or something like that. Can the kapton heater be removed?
No sadly it can't I have ordered a Matt black aluminium heated plate that will bolt to the 1515 extrusion with a black 200mm glass bed. I'll clamp it down with bulldog clamps for now as this is my only printer for now untill a build a 2020 custom delta with the works.
Funny thing is sometimes the probe will work perfect then just decide to strike for a few hours then it'll start working again.
Thanks DJDemonD for all the help
Look out for nozzle contact probes coming along soon, I have one in the works and so does DC42.