Need help : MagBalls+Smart-Effector for AC LinearKosselPlus

p1ngb4ck

Hello everybody

I could use some assistance, regarding a modified Anycubic Linear Kossel Plus Delta, that I bought in used, modified state. It already has a Duet2 Maestro and I have been able to print with it already (went through the very informative Guides).
Now I would to upgrade to Haydn Huntleys MagBallArms and Smart-Effector, the printer currently still uses stock rods, rod-ends and effector(with hotend). Also : is there anything that would speak against using a volcano hotend with the smart-effector ?
Are there any users, who have done the same and could provide exact info regarding required rod-length, correct rod-spacing etc. and good stls to mount proper radial fans and 40mm cold-end fans?

BTW : duet3d.com down?

Best regards & thx in advance, Oliver

mihaitintea

I searched [ the Internet] for the 3D CAD model for the AnyCubic Kossel Linear Plus frame - the #1 important thing for me was keeping unmodified the bed diameter. The #2nd important thing was the type of the tower rails - specifically, their thickness. You have to decide what you should keep [inherit] from the old printer when creating a new printer.
Also you must find online the CAD models for the Delta Smart Effector.

Using a CAD program to edit ensemble frame+effector, I kept the following elements as unmodifiable :
- the bed diameter = 240 mm, as I absolutely did not want to order a new heated bed -- that was inherited from the Kossel Plus printer -- that is important since such a bed is kinda hard to find -- well, maybe not that hard if you are willing to wait for another 2-ish months of waiting for the Chinese guys to ship
- the tower rails -- those are the [noname] MGN12H rails that came with the Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus printer -- they are kinda easier to find from a retailer closer to you, not necessarily China only.

Eventually I designed my own custom frame using custom 2060 extruded aluminium frames for the towers. That required custom-designed delta corners, as I wanted to keep my 240mm bed.

That is an chicken-and-egg problem.

I had to keep alive and running the original Chinese Kossel printer to print all the necessary parts, until I was sure that I am well beyond the no-going-back point. Because once I decide to dismantle the Chinese Kossel printer, I cannot be sure, not in 1000 lives, that reassembling it would result in something that would print 1+1=2. Because China. So, the printer upgrade process is one-way.

OK so using the CAD program I calculated that I need 288.14 mm Haydn arms.

Then I went shopping online for such custom-sized Haydn arms.

Most offers I've seen online were for pre-built 360 mm Haydn arms, but that was not good for me because:

arms longer than 288.14 mm will worsen my delta printer precision
also arms longer than 288.14 mm will lower my printable height too much, should I have towers' height restrictions;
arms shorter that 288.14 mm will shorten my printable diameter too much below 240 mm.

So if you are into building your custom delta, you have to find a way to get precise-built rods. Haydn arms are precise-built. My 6 Haydn arms were shipped like so:

4 arms of 288.14 mm
2 arms of 288.15 mm

So 0.01 mm difference, that is really close to perfection.

If I would've tried to build my custom arms, chances are that I would've made mistakes that would've been led me to rebuilding the arms again and again -- eventually leading to an overall cost much greater than what I would accept.

The original Duet Delta Smart Effector ships with and e3d v6 0.4 mm hotend.

The migration path from the e3d v6 to a e3d volcano is easy. You keep the Duet Delta Smart Effector PCB. You just have to sacrifice 1-ish centimeter reduction in printing height.

My final configuration is as follows:

original 240 mm heated bed inherited from Anycubic Kossel Plus printer
custom frame with custom 3d-printed delta corners
custom-length Haydn arms (4 x 288.14 mm + 2 x 288.15 mm)
Two Duet Delta Smart Effector: a) first one for e3d v6 0.4 mm hotend, and b) second one with e3d volcano 0.8 mm.
Duet 3D wifi motherboard
Duetx5 (I want to add separate dedicated flying extruders for each of my two hotends)

Regards

Dougal1957

Haydn does 288 ones as std and I believe that is the correct option for a ACL but you will prob have to get them directly or one of the retailers that stock them in that size. Haydn or Blueeaglelabs for example

bricor

I have a delta that is the same spec as the anycubic kossel linear plus. I am using Haydn 288 rods with a smart effector, volcano hotend and the stock E3d hot end fan. For the part cooling fan I use one like this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2808152.

The setup works extremely well.

bricor

I'm posting my config.g file contents for reference. The only original parts from the Anycubic are the bed and the linear rails/blocks so I wouldn't try to use the file as is on your machine.
I 'm using a Duet2 Wifi board, the parameters/settings I believe are the same for the Maestro.

; General preferences
G90 ; Send absolute coordinates...
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves
;M665 R133.969 L272.869 B110 H287.79 ; Set delta radius, diagonal rod length, printable radius and homed height
;M666 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Put your endstop adjustments here, or let auto calibration find them

M665 L288 R138 H304.65 B110.0 X0 Y0 Z0
M666 X0 Y00 Z0 A0.00 B0.00

; Network
M550 PDelta2 ; Set machine name
M552 S1
M552 S1 ; Enable network
M587 S"" P"" ; Configure access point and IP addresses. You can delete this line once connected
M586 P0 S1 ; Enable HTTP
M586 P1 S0 ; Disable FTP
M586 P2 S0 ; Disable Telnet

; Drives
M569 P0 S1 ; Drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1 ; Drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S1 ; Drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S1 ; Drive 3 goes forwards
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80 Y80 Z80 E475 ; Set steps per mm
M566 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E300 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X18000 Y18000 Z18000 E3600 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X3000 Y3000 Z3000 E3000 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X1500 Y1500 Z1500 E1000 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S60 ; Set idle timeout

; Axis Limits
M208 Z0 S1 ; Set minimum Z

; Endstops
M574 X2 Y2 Z2 S1 ; Set active high endstops

; Z-Probe
M558 P5 R0.4 F600
G31 P100 X0 Y0 Z -0.1 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 R80 S20 ; Define mesh grid

; Heaters
M305 P0 T100000 B4138 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0
M143 H0 S120 ; Set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M305 P1 X200 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1
M143 H1 S320 ; Set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C5

; Fans
M106 P0 S0.3 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
M106 P2 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 2 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on

; Tools
M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C

; Automatic saving after power loss is not enabled

; Custom settings are not configured

; Miscellaneous
M501
T0

3mm

@p1ngb4ck said in Need help : MagBalls+Smart-Effector for AC LinearKosselPlus:

Hello everybody

I could use some assistance, regarding a modified Anycubic Linear Kossel Plus Delta, that I bought in used, modified state. It already has a Duet2 Maestro and I have been able to print with it already (went through the very informative Guides).
Now I would to upgrade to Haydn Huntleys MagBallArms and Smart-Effector, the printer currently still uses stock rods, rod-ends and effector(with hotend). Also : is there anything that would speak against using a volcano hotend with the smart-effector ?
Are there any users, who have done the same and could provide exact info regarding required rod-length, correct rod-spacing etc. and good stls to mount proper radial fans and 40mm cold-end fans?

BTW : duet3d.com down?

Best regards & thx in advance, Oliver

@p1ngb4ck,

Hi, I too have a ALKP delta. On mine the only parts remaining are the 2020 profiles, linear rails + linear slide bearings, motors and the belts. Everything else I have replaced including the undersized wire that was shipped with my printer.

My AnyPubic Linear Crapper printer's current physical configuration is:
DUET-EtherNet V1.02 controller (excellent) (TriGorilla brd caught fire & burned after 1 week of usage, vendor said was my fault)
SmartEffector + E3D-V6 HotEnd (excellent) (original HotEnd constantly jammed)
7inch PanelDue (useful)
288.13 mm Hayden diagonal rods & magballs (excellent) (original 12 rod-end bearings were sloppy loose; diagonal rods were different lengths)
450W SSR for switching heatbed (bed was not shipped with my printer, I bought it from different vendor)
350W 'LED' switching 12Vdc power-supply (replaced tiny power supply)
Opto Interrupter endstops (replaced original micro-switches end-stops that switched at different positions, randomly)
top & botom metal corner vertex (original injected molded corners were mishaped)
soon to be mounted (when arrives) BondTech BGM 1.75mm Bowden tube extruder + PanCake 0.9º stepper motor

As I have said before, the AKLP as shipped to me was fun to build but that is where the fun stopped. As designed and delivered to me, the printer was incapable of printing as it was uncalibratable. I have an e-mail from AnyCubic factory, that states, "buy our new model, it fixes all the problems you are having!!" I kid you not.

Regarding your bed size, measure it then make your calculations.

I have a minor printing artifact that I am working to resolve, beyond that my homebrew AnyPubic is working great now! Get the Haydens, you'll like'm. I don't know about the E3D Volcano, but the V6 I have works well in my opinion.

Good luck.

3mm

p1ngb4ck

thanks a lot for the very detailed answer
Yep - I want to put in haydns rods and magballs also - just wanted to make sure, the 288mm set is the correct one - I assumed this myself also before .. but just wanted to make this safe ;D
Since the volcano fits the normal heatsink, it should fit, I will just lose 2 cms build-height - but thats worth it to me

p1ngb4ck

wow you guys are so helpful this is incredible - thank you soooo much !!!!!

bricor

@p1ngb4ck I believe there is an 8.5 mm height difference between the V-6 and the volcano