It's just odd that the motors will move properly when commanded manually but not when printing. Can you verify the motor current while printing? Send M906 and then M913 without parameters in the console and it will report what the current is set to along with any percentage scaling. Maybe there is a rogue current reduction command happening somewhere.
Hello everyone! its been a bit scene i have been on here, for those who have not seen it, i created a flat coil winder using the duet controlled delta i built,
here is a few videos of it working:
it even made it to hackaday, that was cool,
any hoo, it would not be possible with out the Duet! i "sell" theses to everyone i talk to others about how much i love it and that the community here is one vital roll in its success!
Just thought i would post this here as i haven't posted in a while, thanks again to all those who contributed to this platform.
I do have a request though. in order for this to work correctly, i need to find a way to make a stepper motor turn the cam follower head in the direction that I'm trying to lay the wire, This way i can control precisely where i lay the wire and i dont have to rely on the wire to " pull" the cam around. right now there is an offset between the roller and the zero point of the Gcode / indefector.
Dose anyone know if there is a way i can use the extruder motor out put ( or an extra output to a driver) that i can automatically tell it to move in accordance to the direction that the endefector is moving?
The alternative is to offset the Gcode so that the cam follower is in the correct place. if i wanted to place the wire exactly, or make sharp corners i can have to offset this. very hard thing to do.
I thought about trying a drag knife type Gcode editor for corners. but that's not a good option. because the radius of arcs or any moment really is going to be off set.
so the best thing is to have a motor that can move the head around to make sure it fallows the current direction on the fly. then i can make the roller in the zero location and have no offset. right now there has to be an offset or the wire / roller will not work correctly.
If there is any possible way to do this with current duet functionality or G code script... please let me know,
if there is not please let me know if you'd be interested in making a script or some type of program / addition to the duet that can do this.
to be clear, I want to drive a stepper motor that would be turning the cam follower (360 deg) so it always was trailing the direction of travel. and for this to be done internally on the fly or from a gcode script that would add the extra g code to do this, using the already created G code for the wire placement.
This would also be helpful for a drag knife type tool...
here is just a photo of some # 40 AWG wire with a gap, this is a bifilar coil...
oh and i guess i did not update this thread with the addition of the 9 arms on the delta... i did this for more support on the CNC milling attachment i made.
Thanks for any input and help / feed back. positive criticism is welcome
@mrehorstdmd How about using mod.8 gears vs mod1? (https://kyouikugearjapan.trustpass.alibaba.com/product/50026277888-230595559/Worm_gear_shaft_Module_0_8_Stainless_steel_Made_in_Japan_KG_STOCK_GEARS.html?spm=a2700.icbuShop.prewdfa4cf.1.134a236dhzD8e3)
I am very happy with my print quality, but I think thre is room for improvement. That's why I'm looking for higher quality gears. There are a few, bust most with 6mm bore shaft. These are about the only one I could find with 5mm bore.
The Kit Pre-orders for the first batch of are live! Reserve your spot in line! https://www.projectr3d.com/products/railcore-ii-300zl-full-kit-pre-order
The first run will require you to tap your extrusion, we will be building the jigs to utilize our power taps in the future. As the RailCore Team continues to improve the printers we will work with the to provide what we can in the kits. Let us know what you want to see and if you have any questions let us know!
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Thank you! I will give the M564 a try and post the results. We are building an entire new gantry system for the z-axis so at the moment I don't have much room there and dont need it since we are just looking to start moving and printing in the parameters that we do have.
New motors were delivered yesterday. I originally had planned to change my Z axis to belt-n-pulley setup with a 2:1 gearing (via different sized pulleys) but then there was this package waiting for me when I came home.
I measured their lengths and interestingly they differ. 3 of 4 are 46.98mm long and the remaining one is 47.16mm long. Very strange for being the same motors from the same manufacturer delivered in one box.
I then filed flats on all shafts of the motors and started with replacing X motor (as it is easiest). Now my X axis can run 250mm/s - which at 220mm axis length + 3000mm/s² accel means it takes around 1s to get from one side to the other. Looks totally crazy as I am not used to these speeds!
So far I cannot tell that (at same speeds as before) this motor is quieter (or louder) than the original Anet motor.
I have wired connectors to all other motors already and will replace them today as well.
In the process of re-tensioning my X belt I though saw that my (printed) belt tensioner was partly broken so currently printing a new one. I wanted to do this last night but all attempts failed due to an "improvement" I added to my extruder earlier last night. It was supposed to achieve better internal guiding but instead it just resulted in filament jams.
How long are the wires from the piezo disk to the piezo PCB? I can't see where you have the board mounted.
You also need to include a delay into the probe routine ( include R0.5 in your M558). This makes the printer wait for half a second between XY movements and Z probe movments to allow vibration to die down. Also, you should probably use the P8 mode rather than the P1, the output of the piezo PCB is digital, using P1 (analogue) only increases the chances of false triggers.
Okay, that looks a lot better. (In that it's at least mostly a plane, and doesn't look like I'm trying to print on wet corrugated cardboard, not that this is a great result!) I have a little compliance in the front right of the bed when probing, so that corner shows a little lower than it should, the rest pretty much is a sloped plain, slightly lower to the front. I had plans to figure out how I was going to make adjustments, it seems that it's time to put those into action. The map looks terrible in that scale though.
You can't really see the compliance in the first couple of probes (Weird, I'd have thought that any would be on the other side, since that is further from the sensors there.) Apparently the autofocus hadn't quite figured it out yet.
tghere. This video the axes should look straighter, since I know that I had leveled the screws at this point.
I have a flex drive (now redundant) and went to the nimble, I have a dual on my corexy and a single on my delta, having dealt with both teams and experienced the "politics" as you put it, and the engineering from both, the nimble is head and shoulders above the flex drive, in every aspect. Good luck with corexy and the never ending desire to improve and evolve this type. I have one that too is never finished.
@danal I should have thought of the straight Z move, thanks for mentioning it.
As for the belt tensions, plucking them is kind of difficult since the only sit about 1 mm from the tower extrusions. I guess I keep using my gut feeling for now
Looking at it, I see it is relay controlled for the 3 outputs, which is good (having Active Low trigger pins, and use the Signal and Ground through each relay - signal should be pulled high).
If you were to connect them to pins like endstops (that you are not using, or endstops on the expansion header), which can be remapped and cause triggers (see https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M581_Configure_external_trigger), you can write custom macros that are run when each of the outputs on the controller is triggered (for example the UP can contain something like "G1 Z+0.5 F500" - the + indicating a relative movement)
You will need to create some custom macros for this, and possible some wiring, but I can't see why it can't be done.
If going through, just have a safe way to test it thoroughly before using it in production.
The two outputs labelled Za and Zb are connected in series to a single motor driver. So to use them you don't need to create an additional axis.
It's also possible to connect one Z motor to Za and the other to the E1 motor output. In this case you would use the M584 command to tell the firmware you have done this:
M584 X0 Y1 Z2:4 E3
You can use motors connected in this way to do bed leveling if you have a Z probe. You don't need to create an extra axis unless you want each Z motor to have its own endstop switch.
Thanks for all your help! This has probably been the most responsive forum I've ever been on. I'm reconsidering my design and wondering if a large dedicated printer would be better. Maybe one that prints Ultem and PEEK...
@marine85 You really don't need stall detect. If the Z axis is 300 mm long, send the bed to Z=305. It's going to stall when it gets to Z=300 because you've set up physical stops that prevent it from going any further.
Reducing the current when you get close to Z=300 is probably a good idea, especially if you have a lot of torque available in the Z axis.
@dc42 I had used a different guide that more or less said the same thing. I'll try going through it again tonight as I was abit rushed when doing it. Was just wondering if there was anything more in depth.
I know (no interpolating) on more then 16
but 64 works good
60mm/sec extrusion works
have a little overextrusion (needs new calibration)
using 1.8 Motor - normal nema 17 from cr-10 - with 15V
I think pancake and 0.9 there is less torque