Well, might not be that helpful, but see this thread:
The cheapest printer I can find that uses Duet wifi:
Anyways, Ender-3 is normal to fit an duet maestro, but you might wanna check out the ender-4 or ender-5 - I like the ender-4.
What I have understood is that for a good fine print the adhesion is fundamental.
Lots of mouse bite on the filament occur because a not fine calibration , but the rest of the fail depend because I was too close the bed. With the white glue technique I passed reach a good adhesion leaving the nozzle far as it should from the hot bed.
Si company (ArtVetro , here in the north of Italy) produced for me 2 glasses of 41,5cm.
The purpose of the dimensions where extend the print area and make fast the placement of the glass.
So I also realized the parts that block the glass with just a simple push.
I attach the file . blocco-vetro-borosilicato.stl
It have some tolerances. It was made by intention. So I can also add a small tin rubber between the hard plastic and the glass.
The other big difference made in accuracy is made by the mood I made at the cartridges. After turning the bolt for calibrate the cartridges I noticed a minimum torsion of the whole plate if forced in lateral direction.
Of course the head is heavy , so changing the direction faster it push the cartridges to try to torque.
For resolve this I bought a sheet of Teflon 1mm thick, And the bi-adesive scotch.
With a thickness gauge I measured that the space between the plate and the structure was about 1,4mm.
The bi-adeshive scotch is near 0.1mm. So I applied 3 layers of scotch and the Teflon for avoid any kind of lateral torsion.
For help the slide I applied also some neutral grease. (Vaselina)
@deckingman said in 3D scanning a $2 coin with 3D printer and DIY touch probe:
@cvmichael Very clever! I'm assuming that your program moves the head to a probe point, raises the bed until the probe triggers, them measures the Z height at that point before moving on to the next probe point. Is that correct?
Yes, that's exactly what it does
I remapped the Z motors as U axis, and the probe is connected to "E0 Stop". The program runs in 2 for loops, for X and Y, and it basically homes on U axis, reads the value, then moves back to zero. Then moves to a new point, and so on...
Here I did a test scanning sideways, on X axis: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgG614AWU4s Here I remapped the motor driver of X axis as U axis, and did the same thing, homed on U axis, read value, etc...
This was my first test, I had a screw as the probe, LOL
I love my Ender 3 with the Duet Wifi...it works great and now greatly out performs my Taz 6 printer in both speed and quality. Granted...my ender 3 is far from stock using a geared printable extruder first was using a Greg's wade bowden variant and now one called the Pitan, linear guide for the bed, polycarbonate v-slot wheels on the x and z axis as well as dual z rods and stepper motors.
The thing is so reliable now, just set and go.
@garyd9 thanks, that was absolutely correct! Checking my config.bak the previous value was at -0.414, so I must have messed this up when adjustig the trigger value.
The test gcode posted above looks perfect now.
@wyvern As @dc42 said the MOSFET on the Duet are of superior quality and I trust them much more than I would trust any external MOSFET board. I even do have one laying around here from the times when I used the original Anet board.
Also using such a board doubles your chances for a problem because then you have two MOSFETs that could fail (however likely it is that they fail closed) and in both cases it would lead to uncontrollable heating - whereas cutting VIN via a relay (cutting live wire to the PSU) is a lot safer. Of course unless the relay fails open. But since this relay carries only a rather small current it is rather unlikely to fail.
I hate lead screws, if it was possible for my machine I would use belts.
I went through 4 lead screws to find two that were -almost- perfect, the instructions tell you that you attach the rods to the top and bottom using the supplied self-aligning bearings (this is an FT5 R-2 with dual lead screws with a single belt synchronized stepper) Having the lead screw attached in this way makes it almost impossible to remove binding, even then because you are restraining the Z screw from moving around to and fro- causes the bed to wobble- removing the top bearings helped with print quality.
lead screws are fine to be constrained in X-Y axis on say a CNC, this is because the axis only needs to be moderately accurate, but on 3D prints, especially decorative items, even the smallest amount of wobble is noticeable. Increasing the diameter of the lead is a double edged sword, on one hand, it will flex less under the weight of the bed, but on the other any variation of runout and out-of-round would force it's way onto the bed, rather than flex a little and allow the linear guides to resist the force from the leads.
I have almost no Z-wobble, but I have even considered going from dainty 8mm linear rods to 12mm rods to help mitigate this, in fact, I've toyed around with the idea to use 4 linear rails on 2020 extrusions as bed platform guides.
Ball screws are a possibility, but in order to get a quality part, you are paying an ungodly amount of money.
If I was to design a system it would have inverted lead screws, this way gravity pulls down on the bed instead of the lead screws fighting to keep the bed up, this would remove most all flex and would then only have to worry about the quality of the leads themselves.
@shadowphile said in question about steppers and power supply current rating:
Since I don't want to change everything over to 24V, I plan to wire 24 into the Duet but wire my old 12 into the middle pin of the V_fan select header. Both supplies would merge their negative terminals. Sound ok?
Yes that's OK.
I got it....
I made some further change at the setup I'll explain in an other post but some summing here:
-D3D original hotend + volcano extension as the original TLM. + copper nozzle (nickel coated)
-Changed belts with ones iron cored.
-Cartridge modified for a far better precision (with Teflon thickness + bi-adessive scotch) .
-Borosilicate custom made glass (x2) 41,5cmX5mm + 3 auto-build support for block the glass.
-The damn white glue really work! Moisture of 2/5 glue-water , I used just a sponge for apply it. Than the bed at 50 degree. The big piece doesn't move from the glass!
Thanks to any one for the support...for sure I'll ask other stuffs...but right now I'll give back my contribution opening a new thread with my accomplishments.
I'll mark as solved the 3d.
@richardmckenna yeah there good guys once you order they send you a link to both there own closed Forum and to there Discord Chatroom they usually hang out around there and also the 3Dprinting Discord which can be found at
3Dprinting Discord Chat room
@agniusm said in Modded Ender 3 Conveyor concept:
is there a temperature tied to that drive? Like the extruder would not move until temp is high enough to extrude and if so could that be altered?
To drive an extruder:
You must select a tool that uses that extruder;
If that tool has any associated heaters, you must heat them up to at least the minimum extrusion temperature OR enable cold extrusion.
And... if it moves 5mm and stops, with that homeall.g, MOST LIKELY, the printer thinks all 3 endstops are already triggered.
As Dave said, follow the "test endstop" procedure at the link he gave. DON'T change a bunch of other stuff until you are sure the endstops are working correctly, and the motors are turning in the right direction.
I can't help with the thermistor settings because I don't know the CR10S. You can normally leave the PWM limit and sensor channel at their default values. If you search this forum for CR10S then you will find other users with that printer - maybe one of them can help.
Filament sensors are configured using M591, see https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode?revisionid=HEAD#Section_M591_Configure_filament_sensing.
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