I am finally getting somewhere. After resolving some of the issues with the Titan Clone Mount I spend some time getting Slic3rPE set-up. My approach to that was basically a mix of the Prusa settings and some input from the a Railcore II300 profile I found online. I can not claim that I would know all the details what each parameter actually does but so far I have a working printer setup and print setup for 0.2mm and 0.1mm layer height. One of the things I struggled with most was priming of the nozzle prior to the actual print. The way Prusa does it did not really work so I have taken that from a Railcore profile. I can run both print profiles at 100% with very nice looks and at 200% for a very fast print. I have speeds set to 60mm/s for perimeters 30mm/s for external perimeters and 80mm/s for infill and support, 20mm/s for the 1st layer. Some distortions are noticeable after sharp corners for example printing a cube. Printing it at 200% speed that obviously gets worse. It is in no way so bad that it would worry me for now but something that shows there is some unwanted vibration. I will look into that once I have my final bed finally on the printer.
Another issue I ran into was heat in the wrong place of the hotend. I had the Titan Aero fan set to 70% to reduce noise. That was not a good idea, on an longer print I started missing steps on the extruder and it finally ground through the filament. The problem was the fan was to slow to provide enough cooling. So my heatbreak was clogged and I had to disassemble the Titan Aero to remove the blockage. This has not happen since I run at 100% fan speed.
I have no good light here to take pictures of prints, I take them with me to the office and post pictures later today or tomorrow.
@fma @dc42 Thanks for the info! I'll probably have the Bondtech/Titan in between the electromagnet and the stepper motor just to be safe. I'm planning on using a small M3 screw, spring and printed flag with an optical endstop switch (and homing without the electromagnets on) so there shouldn't be any issues there as might happen with a BLTouch.
@t3p3tony Our main inspiration was the e3D ToolChanger! As soon as I saw videos of that I knew i wanted to do something similar for my senior project.
My team and I only have around 8 weeks to do the design of the machine, so that open source cable driven tool changer mechanism seemed like the cheapest, easily made/modified, and most reliable method we could find. It would have added to our scope of work to also design a tool change mechanism from scratch, and although doable it seemed more practical to make use of and modify a preexisting design.
We're using Markforged-style kinematics for the XY axis, and I haven't seen much on the forum about people actually making use of that kinematic class in the firmware so it will be interesting to get that working.
@paulhew said in X and Y shift during printing.:
My Bad, I thought the tool fan referend to the hotend fan
Hotend fan is having this issue. It is controlled by the duet gcode.
This morning I have been testing the hotend and every time it runs at full speed, after a heating and cooling cycle.
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H1 T40
Do I need the F parameter? I only need it on or off. I know its default is 250 if it is omitted.
You don't need the F parameter. The fan should turn fully on when the indicated hot end temperature rises above 40C and off when it falls below 40C.
@rbjam83 Thanks! looks like there's some variation in terms of where the belts fit, but the overall approach makes sense. It looks like you could use angle irons for most of it and then print some corner pieces to wrap around the motors and pulleys. Thanks and good luck with your project!
Thanks guys, I completely understand the rigidity with 2040.
I just don't have the resources to get any at this time.
As long as it can be done, I can get the printer working reliably again.
I'll just keep the speeds and acceleration a lower to help prevent the ringing.
Stepper motors are current driver, it is the work of the stepper-driver chip to chop the power-supply voltage so the current is at it adjusted value. When it is at it adjusted value the voltage on the stepper motor will be to at the proper value too.
@claustro said in All black D-bot:
For me aesthetic is very important so cable wire is a large part of the time spent building this printer,
I can see that clearly - made great!!! I am also a cable and cable-tie fetishist
How satisfied are you with the v-slot guides?
Auto tuning while driving filament at different speeds would be interesting. Difficult to execute as the resistance to flow changes with temperature, not to mention the standard auto tune starting at around 40C. A pure required heating calculation correction may suffer significant error from the heating effect of ramming the larger filament through a smaller hole.
A bare LED cannot be directly connected to any arbitrary power supply — a resistor usually needs to be added to limit the power to the LED based on its specifications.
The panel mount led you bought likely has a resistor.
Thank you both for your answers.
Ive had a couple of experiences when I my duet has lost internet connection in the middle of me making changes to config.g and when reconnected config.g has gone missing.
I thought the M3D style config may reduce the severity but could also cause the other issues raised.
@jtroutt19 said in Suddenly Started printing higher than usual:
Not sure how to even start answering that question.
Start printing. You'll know. One will likely be enough. I'm going to guess that the blowers from amazon are probably a little loud and pretty powerful. And they probably sent two because there's a good chance one will be DOA. So at least you have a spare.
@deckingman Don't worry, I'll yank your chain, just know it'll be in fun.
I think what threw me the most was in the sentence before you took objection to I had said " as you pointed out this is a great community and people will understand." So I was taken aback being told I was dissing anyone or the forum.
I often point out that even with emojis and italics, bold etc, it's still hard to tell tone. Just know I respect the hell out of you, even if you get grumpy ya old bear.
(I'm almost retired too, just not quite there yet)
Catch ya later!
Hi Phaedrux, I'm using S3D but in my config I have the M555 sent for Marlin, This is way back when I first started 3D printing so I didn't know much then and now, . So I will I take the M555 out and sent S3D to RepRap. I'm trying to get my jerk and acceleration right.
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