@Dizzwold The terminal blocks are just standard DIN rail blocks. I can't remember the make and model but they weren't anything special - just some cheap ones off Amazon I think. I figured they would be OK for this low voltage/low current application. Yes each set of blocks are connected together using bus bars. But I ran out of bus bars so the last block of 0V ones on the right are connected together using link wires on the rear terminals. I've edited the picture that you likely saw on my YT video with labels to show the bus bars and link wires. Here you go.......
EDIT. Not all DIN rail terminals have provision for bus bars. They aren't strictly necessary but if you don't have to use link wires, they effectively double the number of terminals available to connect other things.
First, though, can you connect to the wifi after a power cycle now?
If not, can you connect via USB and use YAT to send some commands to get the status of the board? Send M122 and copy and paste the results here. That will let us know if the firmware installed or not.
The next thing to try would be to test the wifi module in access point mode where it creates a network and you connect your computer to that network, bypassing your own wifi router. It the connection works well that way we know the issue is with the wifi router or the module itself.
That's one benefit of being retired and not having to find time for a day job. ☺
What do you print with this machine now?
Currently I'm mostly printing Hydroponics/Aeroponics towers (another hobby I've recently picked up). This sort of thing
Obviously not the black tank and not all in one print. The parts are modular, about 230mm tall and slot together.
I'm also playing around with flexible filaments and making bracelets for my grand daughter. The LGX Ace should be good for flexibles because it has a very short filament path from the extruder outlet to the (Mosquito) hot end inlet. But I'm still dialling that in.
Often, a new printer is used to print parts for it's clones if there is enough interest from others. But the all_metall approach makes it difficult to reprap your machine.
Yes, it most definitely isn't a Reprap. I'm still debating whether to sell my lathe and milling machine. Now that the printer is finished, I have no use for them and the money and space would come in handy. But who knows what the future holds so it might be a decision that I come to regret.
@o_lampe Thank you for your email.
To the consideration of the z axis,
the trident has very sturdy xycore mechanisms and whole hotend with extruder and z axis weight about 611g.
Also with 5 axis movement there will be no need for rapid movement of X and y axis.
When I tested printing with normal 3 axis slicer it may look wobbly but the prints came out nice.
I am using in this way the 6hc board with a full potential with stepper motors.
When I have been designing the hotend from mainly used parts what I had lying around so that is the result of it.
But in the future if the problem become with the stability, is already on my mind to design a new version of the z axis mechanism with two linear rails and lead screw for the z axis stepper motor and maybe liquid cooling for the hotend.
The main goal is to make the hotend available for maximum movement and reach around the rotary bed.
@michaelr123 in my opinion you're simply using too long arms. Long arms multiply the errors. If you're using 10 cm arms, you'll get much better solution. You can use cantileved mode to place the hotend a bit away from the last hinge. Placing the XY actuator with bigger distance will also help (but this conflicts with the short arms). I have/had similar problems with 6 axis robot, so this is from my experience (better would be parallel arms vertically or parallelogram structure. Stability could be gained by overconstraining with tensegrity methods also).
But if your project requirement is a big print area and you have time pressure, using CoreXY (or Cartesian in Gantry style) will probably be a better option.
@DrDFlo Hey, could you possibly also share your config file and the speeds at which you print? It would help a ton
I'm having trouble with the extruder since the motor is heating up a lot even while extruding PLA at relatively low speeds so a reference config would help a lot.
@CNCModeller Looks much better then mine, but my frame is RepRap'd from plywood 😜
I've also added magnets in each corner to make it removable.
The servo is modified with an external potmeter to make it run eternally.