Max Metal Rostock Settings for Configuration (and pictures)
saffi last edited by
I'm almost finished building my printer, just waiting on a 12V power supply to arrive (I have a 24V, but my Onyx will probably be safer to run at 12V from what I've read.)
If there's a safe way to run the Onyx 12V bed at 24V please post suggestions (I did put the 98C thermal fuse right under the bed, hopefully I managed to solder it quickly enough as not to hit that temp already). I think I can layer something under it to move it from the bed slightly if I ever decide to hit temps over 98C. If the concern was overheating the bed using 24V - then I may have already prepared for that with the thermal fuse.
On the FSR melamine plate - could I loosely mount it to the frame so it can still wiggle a few mm back and forth and up and down, but won't actually fall off if I pick up the printer to move it? I was thinking M3 screws, but something like 4mm holes and the screw lined up with the holes, but nothing was actually fixed to the screw.
Tomorrow I'll work on flashing firmware and preparing my config.g file.
I'm trying to get a preliminary list of settings that might be needed for the configuration - feel free to post comments on build or suggested settings.
Frame is Max Metal Trick Laser frame with ball-cup carriages and effector.
Onyx rev7 heat bed on melamine mount with FSR sensors and JohnSL board.
E3D hotend with silicone sleeve
Delta radius 133mm (?) is this different for the ball-cup effector and trick trucks
350mm - approximate print height
300.15mm carbon fiber rod length (according to Trick Laser notes on packaging)
260mm print diameter (I'll probably fine tune this later to be larger)
130mm print radius
100K NTC Thermistor (type used in Onyx rev7 12V heat bed)
PT100 Thermistor for hot end
490 steps per mm for Bondtech Extruder
20 Tooth for X, Y, Z Pulleys
Nema 17 motors (I'm not sure what other information I'll need on those)
The M665 should look something like the following:
M665 R133mm L300.15 B130 H375 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 ; set delta radius, diagonal rod length, printable radius and homed height
I have the FSR sensors installed, so as I understand the horizontal radius and leveling settings will be taken care of automatically?
Is the PID autotune process similar to the Rostock Max?
Photos below and more comments in photo library here: Photos here: http://imgur.com/a/VAJkE