Smart Effector Fans work/LED Lights Don't Light Up
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@dc42 Can you tell me how do i check for continuity and which jumper? i have the same problem.
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Use the schematic I linked to in my previous post to guide you. The jumper is the 12/24V one labelled "LED voltage select". The traces between the LEDs are easy to spot because they run along the edges. The resistors are the two largest ones not far from the jumper.
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@dc42 i checked all the LED is working but i am getting resistance on the test. is this normal?
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@ken340 said in Smart Effector Fans work/LED Lights Don't Light Up:
@dc42 i checked all the LED is working but i am getting resistance on the test. is this normal?
Can you explain what you mean?
If the hot end fan works but the LEDs don't, the following are the likely causes:
- Blown 150R series resistor, which will happen if you ran with 24V applied but the voltage select jumper was fitted as if you were supplying 12V.
- Bad PCB trace connecting the LEDs together. The traces run very close to the edge of the PCB, and sometimes when the panels of multiple PCBs were broken apart, the trace got broken. This should have been picked up in testing (and we have improved the PCB design since then). Here is an example of a trace that has nearly broken through:
So use a multimeter to check that the LEDs really are connected together.
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@dc42 I use a multimeter to the LED individually and they are in working condition. The continuity test returns with a value, Can I assume the circuit is not close, this may be an issue with the faulty resistor.
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@ken340 said in Smart Effector Fans work/LED Lights Don't Light Up:
The continuity test returns with a value
Please explain what you mean by that. What are you testing for continuity, and what value does your multimeter read?
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@dc42 from the 12v/24v pin and i am getting a readout of 600+
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if you mean you are getting a reading of 600 ohms across the 12V jumper pins, that's normal because there is a 604 ohm resistor connected between those pins.
Does the 150 ohm resistor look intact, and does it read 150 ohms?
What PCB revision is your Smart Effector?
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@dc42 the 150 ohms looks intact and i am getting 150 ohms reading. its v2
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I suggest you use your multimeter to measure the resistance between H+ and D1 (should be 750 ohms), between the other side of D1 and D9 (0 ohms), between the other side of D9 and D7 (0 ohms), and between the other side of D7 and H- (0 ohms).