First Post & few Questions (Low+High Endstop & Blobs Issue)

FITT

Would it help if i mesure the resistance of the thermisto to gett an approximate value?

Veti

yes

measure the resistance at room temperature.
then measure the resistance at 100C
then measure the resistance at 200C

you will need a thermometer or other tool to determine the temperature. do not measure the temperature using the same thermistor.

then plug in those 3 sets of values into the calculator (click on the beta value and select custom)
https://configtool.reprapfirmware.org/Heaters

FITT

ok I'll do it tomorow because the printer is still working now an and still hot.
Roomtemperature 21 or 25 °C?

Veti

@FITT
both work as the value can be calculated from both.

FITT

ok. I see; i didn't click on the beta.
thanks alot @Veti and @deckingman
this helped a lot

deckingman

@FITT You should still print a temperature tower as I suggested earlier. Then use the lowest temperature which gives good results according to that tower, regardless of the displayed value.

FITT

Update:

I've mesured the resistance of the thermistor an succesfully put it into the config.g .

But I had some trubble. I had no thermometer, but I had another printer who still worked fin. so I put the thermistor into the hotend and configured the tempretures at this printer. Then I was able to mesure the resistance of the thermistor. I did it at 10 °c stepps. I putted the results into an excelsheet and could verify if it was a curve at the diagram i made out of the results.

Like that I got this result at the onlineconfigurator:

T99074 B6026 C2.830042e-7

I put this into my config and run a few printtest just for fun.

Now I'm going to make the temperature tower that @deckingman suggested

Greatings

FITT

FITT

Update:
I did the temp towers. As you said, it is recomandet tu use the lowest temperature possible; in my case it was 190°C.

I just have to set now the stalldetection and everything will be working.

Thanks for your help

FITT

Veti

@FITT
while that works for now, i would suggest to order some known thermistors anyway.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32816085854.html
and
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32847452724.html

FITT

Hello,
@Veti i'll get some new thermistor in a few days when i order a few more parts that i need. the heater is already new and 24 V.
I'll put a second linearguidance to the diamondcarriage.
I figured out that during the fast print, it moves to much (0.5mm). the printed corners are not straight.

Yesterday I scripted a wipetower into prusa. My goal was to evitate oosing colors into the actual printed color while toolchanging. That worked also fine but wasted a lot of fillament. Luckily the printed part was perfect.
I worked with the setup that @deckingman mentioned in his blog (toolsetup: 0.9:0.025:0.025:0.025:0.025....) but the inactiv color oosed somtimes into the actual color.
Today i'm going to ad a servo which will whipe the nozzle and catch the filament which is purged. Like this i'm going to avoid this wipetower an ooze out the unused color at a specific height and befor a toolchange. and prepare the actual tool.

Veti

@FITT said in First Post & few Questions (Low+High Endstop & Blobs Issue):

I figured out that during the fast print, it moves to much (0.5mm). the printed corners are not straight.

i was expecting that. that is why i mentioned the igus zero backlash setup.